From Romans to Romanesque

Richard's department was moved to a new building on Friday. Everything was boxed up, and nothing was available to work with. So the department took the day off!

So we went to Speyer on Friday, and went straight to the cathedral. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Sight for its architecture and many (eight) tombs of German kings.

Afterward, we went to the bank of the Rhine river and had dessert at a beer garden. The Bavarian Cream was fantastic. Everyone seemed to be having a good time, and one large group suddenly started singing. Really nice singing. I've often thought that Germans do a lot of singing, but not often so well.


There is a great museum across the street from the Cathedral. We saw exhibits on the prehistoric Kelts, the ancient Romans, the opening of the graves of the emperors, and a special exhibit on witches.

The last thing we did was stop at the Jewish Synagogue and the Jewish Bath. The bath was for the women's ritual bathing. It was amazingly deep underground, as deep as a well. And it still had water in it. It must have been an interesting and important ritual.

Wilkommenus

Wilkommenus! That's how I imagine the Germans said welcome back when Emperor Augustus came for a visit. A statue of the (not holy) roman emperor stands at the top of a fountain in the town square in front of the Rathaus. The city was founded in 15 b.c. as Augusta Vindelicorum, but the Germans shortened it to Augsburg. A good decision, I think.


The cathedral in Augsburg has the biggest painting of Mr. (formerly saint) Christopher that I have ever seen. It also has the oldest painted-glass windows in the world. But my favorite was a little fresco on the vaulted ceiling in the crypt. It was under another layer of fresco, and the only part showing was a piece that was missing from the newer fresco. It was a picture of Jesus with a dove over his head, and the dove had the almond-shaped eyes that I associate with Romanesque drawings.

Aunt Cathy's Visit

Kathy's Aunt Cathy wrote this blog about her visit to Germany with two of her friends, Claire and Hortensia, also known as HV.

VACATION 2009

April 23: Thurs. 5:00 p.m.
We're on Lufthansa 747 now awaiting departure. It'll take 9 hrs. and 10 minutes to get to Frankfurt.
An "hour delay" turned into 2 hrs. Called Bob to ask him to call Kathy to inform her of this change. He said she would know by contacting the airport.
It's now 7:15 and we're rolling down the Houston runway, finally. I sure hope they fixed that right fourth engine well. Scary!

We landed safe and pooped. And there was Kathy!! She popped her head out from the other side as the security(?) doors opened and closed. I'll never forget her welcoming face at that moment.

We got our luggage with no problems. Airport construction sent us on a winding path, but when we got at the baggage claim -- there all our luggage was with no one around. They arrived on time, we didn't.
The I.C.E. (intercity express train) is so quiet and smooth running. No parallel in the US. They're clean, have snack-and-beer stands in one car. Passengers are polite and helpful.

6:00 Finally arrived in Erlangen. Had pizza and into bed. We're all so tired. I emailed Bob while at table.
9:15 Prayed with Claire and H.V. and "hit the hay."

Saturday, April 25
Slept okay, despite Claire's snoring. HV, on a cot in the living room, was awakened to a symphony of birds. It's beautiful outside. From her window I see 6 pink tulips and a bunch of daffodils. Ah! a nice cool breeze!
We were awakened this morning by HV jumping onto the space between Claire and me in our bed. It was 8:00! Breakfast was all beautifully set: hard rolls, banana bread, cereals and delicious coffee (made in Richard's unique coffee maker)! Just lovely. We ate and talked and laughed. After breakfast Claire and HV played on the computer. We five talked til about 10:00-10:30, then left for downtown Walked to the plaza where we saw beautiful old buildings, flower and fresh produce and cheese tents or stands -- bustling with activity. An organ grinder with his macaw could be heard and seen. Later other street musicians entertained for donations as we walked along. We joined Christina and Michael for lunch, sandwich and a beer. Walked along the narrow streets, careful not to get on the red brick bicycle path. We talked at length over lunch then walked to see the botanical gardens. Wow! so beautiful!! all kinds of colors of tulips, alyssum, daisies, dianthus and blooming cacti and orchids, etc.
"Excuse me," (Entschuldigung) and thanks (Danke) were two phrases I learned in German and often used. Went for ice cream and walked back to the bus stop and home for 6:00 Mass (in German, of course!). When we got back with feet tired and aching, Richard had a wonderful supper ready: salmon, fried potato slices, and buttery and sweet carrots. We talked and laughed til about 9:30. Did dishes, showered and to bed.

Sunday, April 26
Leave for Amsterdam adventure, which will take four days total.
Several train delays --no matter. I write this on the DB train to Frankfurt. We chatted and laughed as we waited for this train to come. Richard bought me a coffee and some cookies. Dozed off a bit.
Arrived in Ruedesheim around 3:00. Walked 4-5 blocks to our hotel. The Rhine River is so beautiful. It runs parallel to the railroad tracks and a busy shop-filled street.
Got settled in our hotel. Our second floor room has a small balcony with a table and two chairs. We can look down onto an open restaurant well decorated.
Kathy, HV, Claire and I and Richard took a cab to a mountain restaurant overlooking the Rhine. What a magnificent view!! Had an apple pastry and coffee, the others had wine or beer.
HV and Richard hiked to some castle ruins some 40 minutes away while the three of us taxied back. On the way Kathy asked the cab driver to take a slight detour to see St. Hildegard Church. When we got there they were having Vespers and Benediction. We stayed 10 minutes, then headed back left. Then we strolled along the river while waiting for HV and Richard to get back. We all had a German supper at a restaurant around 8:00. Food was good. I had Delter(?)-schnitzel. The salad had sauerkraut in it.
We were all so tired and needed a good night sleep. We were to leave via boat up the Rhine at 9:15 a.m. so up at 7 a.m., breakfast at 7:30, pack up and pay bill by 8:30 at which time we walked down to the KD boat dock. That was the plan
The streets of Ruedesheim were narrow and quaint. Grapevines perforated the hillsides and are used as canopies in alleys, on houses, etc. K & R are so giving. Anything we wanted they arranged it. I hope we're not too much for them.

Monday, April 27
Good morning! Cloudy and a little breeze but the sun is peeking out. Up at 6:45 and a great German breakfast at 7:40. I wrote in the hotel book and we walked down to our boat (a couple of blocks) The Asbach. It's a two-decker.
What a wonderful boat trip, up the Rhine River! We sat outside and saw all the old castles and Loreley (a rock mountain where many boats crashed due to the swift current, shallow water and rocky banks). People and tourists got on and off at various small towns. Enjoyed some hot chocolate leisurely sitting on the deck. Took lots of pics. Got off the boat at Koblenz at 1:15 and slowly headed by train toward Koeln (Cologne), where we changed trains. I'm so sleepy.
Walked slowly, drinking coffee or eating ice cream.
Now we're leaving Koeln for Amsterdam in the Netherlands, a different country. It's 6 p.m.
Robert, a fellow train rider who happened to have a reserved seat in our same compartment, said: "Do not ask for 'brownies' or 'space cakes' or 'cake' while in Amsterdam. Don't go to coffee shop because Marijuana (5 grams) legal to have, is sold there. And prostitution is legal also."
Arrived in Amsterdam at 9:15 p.m. With the "admonitions" of Robert, I was scared to step off the train for fear of a "gypsy" stealing my passport or bag. We got the right bus and got off two canals from our hotel street. Our hotel was down this narrow street, but was very nice and had good service. Comfy beds, modern wash bowl and shower. No face cloths are provided. I'm glad Kathy gave us a special cloth to serve as a facecloth wherever we went.
We were hungry so went to the bar where the sole waiter ("Amin" --what a character!) served us sandwich makings and drinks, and even ice cubes!
We talked and laughed for an hour. I left around 11:15 to shower, write this and get some sleep.
Gathering in the lobby will be 8:00 a.m.

Tuesday, April 28

We ate a delicious bagel and coffee at a nearby Bagel Shop. Mine was a walnut and raisin cream cheese on a pumpernickel bagel. The coffee serving was a bit small, but good.
Left on a train to pick up another train to the Gardens. Arrived there around 10:00 a.m. It rained all day, but not hard. We were prepared and didn't let it stop us from this feast of the senses! What beauty!!! So many various shaped beds of a variety of tulips (mostly), muscari, daffodils, pansies, pentas,azaleas, hyacinths, cherry trees in full bloom, japanese maple trees, cypress and linden trees; also peonies, daisies and paperwhites, etc. The fields of tulips being prepared to ship everywhere. The color designs, the hybrids, art pieces, fountains and one windmill -- all so artistically arranged and breath-taking. I took loads of pictures.
We stopped for a bit to eat. I ate an almond cookie with coffee. The place was packed with many visitors, esp. the elderly and infirm.
It was well set up and maintained.
We continued on our sprinkling garden journey, heading toward the Beatrix (named after the present queen whose 72nd birthday would be on Thursday) pavilion. Once there (after the Japanese garden and windmill) we ate lunch. Since we were chilled, hot chocolate and soup were at the top of the menu. After lunch we walked on -- such beauty!
I took lots of camera shots.
Of course, it stopped raining a few minutes before we left. No time for poffertjes (3" pancake-like).

When we got back to the hotel, we looked for a restaurant and came upon Vooges, a small Dutch restaurant. I had lamb on a skewer, three others had rib-eye and Kathy had Keto Prak, an Indonesian salad. Supper was enjoyed at an easy pace. Lots of talking and laughing. Walked back to our hotel and slept.

Wednesday, April 29
We agreed that we all needed to get more sleep. So breakfast was at 9:00 at the same place.
Next was the 20 minute hurried walk to Anne Frank's house. The long waiting line moved fast. The hour-long tour had excerpts from her diary. The small rooms were dark and somber. Saw the wall library that concealed their hiding place. Videos 1-3 minutes long in various rooms explained about Anne's family and friends lived there in hiding. Auschwitz and other concentration camps were so horrible! With such photos and witnesses, how can anyone deny its existence. Germans are doing all that they can to change the world's perception of them. WWII Nazism is their shame as slavery is ours. Going up the small, narrow stairs for the three floors and back rooms was saddening as I realized that in my lifetime and the year I was born, 1944, Anne was living - hiding - here and writing of her fears, hopes and dreams. She hid there 25 months until someone snitched on them. The two families were taken off to the camps. she died in 1945 of Typhus and all, except her father, died in the camps. He was given her diary by Miep, his secretary, who had kept it for him. He had never read it before as Anne had asked him not to. When he did for the first time, he was surprised at the depth of her thought. "Parents, you never really know the mind of your children."
It was an experience -- moving, inspiring and scary.
We walked back to our hotel. Richard had gone ahead to check us out of the hotel, placing our bags securely in a side room. He waited for us there. We plodded to the train station to leave our bags in two lockers so we could shop around without luggage.
We walked into the Red Light district where all the good restaurants and shops were located. We landed in a Spanish restaurant called La Paella. This is what I ordered (la paella). It was good. It was quiet and peaceful. The soft music in the background helped us relax too.
Train leaves at 4:30 so we decided to look around a few shops near the Amsterdam Centraal.
HV wanted to saunter, look around, "take in" the environment, and shop.

A 3-hour train ride to Koeln (kooln) or Cologne. As we stepped out of the train station --WHAM! There is was, the Cathedral! Huge Gothic church uplifting me up to heaven as I stood close to it and looked up.
Walked to find our Merian Hotel, then went walking to supper at Peter's Brew House (a brewery of Koelsch beer). We could not find the place for a while. After walking we finally found it. It was really close to our hotel, but we had gone a mile out of our way. Whew!
I had goulash with rye bread -- so hearty. We shared each other's dishes -- fried Camembert cheese with cranberry jam, black pudding (HV), two kinds of meat (beef tartar and spiced ground pork, both raw) (Claire) and herring in a cream sauce (Kathy). Their little 6 oz beers were good. The glasses were tall and narrow.
Tomorrow we'll take a better and inside view of the Cathedral and some other sights before leaving for Erlangen.

Thursday, April 30
A lovely breakfast, beautiful and simple in its layout, a spread of five cheeses and meat slices, and eggs prepared three different ways, three different jams and three kinds of bread, fruit, pats of butter in small glass dishes, juices, coffee and tea!
Then we left to see the Cathedral of Sts. Mary and Peter, the 2nd highest in the world. An old Gothic church, made in 1248. It underwent many additions, pauses and resumptions. Once inside, I was awestruck by the soaring height, soul-swooping, heaven-bound, indescribable architecture. Wow!

Our hour-long guided tour highlighted the main pieces of art as we walked through the church.

Very upsetting to me was that the main focus, via lighting and position, was the three kings' reliquary, a big gold box containing the bones and skulls of Caspar, Melchior and Balthazar (lol)!! When I asked where the Eucharist was, he said, " in a side chapel".

The old carvings, side altars and statues and crucifixes had wonderful histories behind them and many healing miracles attributed to them.

Claire and I returned to the cathedral at noon to hear the organ being played at the beginning of noon divine office.

We then got a bus to the Schockolade Museum. Lindt chocolates are made there and the whole story of how the cacao bean is grown and processed was shown from beginning to wrapped chocolate end. Three floors of teaching forms show both children and adults about Linnaeus' work in classifying plants, and the discovery of and uses of the cocoa bean in history in various countries. In the production process, there was and is the exploitation of the workers in Ghana, Bolivia, Mexico, Indonesia, Honduras, etc. The "Fair Market Agreement" and "GEPA" are trying to improve the inhumane treatment of the workers wherever cocoa is produced and shipped.

The stories behind the artifacts were interesting, as we moved from one exhibit to the next.

The best part was going to their restaurant, on the veranda, overlooking the Rhine. We ordered their special pizza, and a wonderful decadent chocolate dessert with coffee.

Then a MAD dash to catch our 3:45 train to Nurnberg. First we walked fast (even H.V.!) to a bus stop. No bus came. Tried another -- only to find a sign which said: Due to construction, this bus stop has been moved until further notice. So we dashed to a tram, then a subway. We decided Kathy and HV should walk over to the train station while Richard, Claire and I raced back (we had 15 minutes only) to the hotel to retrieve all the luggage! Claire pooped out half way there. When Richard and I (a short distance behind him) returned, Claire lightened our loads.

We did it with five minutes to spare, only to learn the train was delayed!!

Rode smoothly back to Nuremberg, then changed trains to Erlangen. Arrived around 9:00 p.m., took a 10 euros taxi and collapsed. An exciting, full day, indeed.

Friday May 1 Labor Day in Germany

Had a full night's sleep. Once again, Richard and Kathy had prepared a wonderful breakfast: cornmeal pancakes, coffee, juice. We ate leisurely and talked and laughed.
I fell asleep after (and during) prayer on their porch. Claire got into her email, Richard worked on his book binding and Kathy practiced her piano and did laundry, H.V. called her friend and her daughter and granddaughter, then helped hang the laundry with Kathy and Claire. Oh, yah, we also munched out on chocolate bought yesterday. Mmmm.
Around 5:30 p.m. we left for an Italian restaurant a few blocks over. One area outside had fragrant purple wisteria in full bloom -- beautiful. The bees also loved the fragrance so we sat at another outside table. The food and service was good. We talked and laughed for at least an hour. Their bathroom door signs were "unique." Strolled back home. Relaxed with a variety of liqueurs while Kathy prepared for train and mass schedules for the next day. She's always looking ahead so everything runs as smoothly as possible. The balance of tasks and abilities that she and Richard share is amazing. they compliment and appreciate each other's gifts.
We konked out around 10:30 p.m.

[Did you know Henry Kissinger was born in Fuerth?]

Saturday, May 2, Wine Day
Up at 8:30ish, simple breakfast and typing the blog for a bit. Left for the train at 10:20. Destination: Iphofen. Again gorgeous, perfect weather. We are so blessed!
We're taking advantage of the W.C. on the trains because they're free. Public places charge 40-50 cents.
The town is quaint. First stop is a wine tasting shop called Winzerkeller Iphofen. Claire and H.V. are in their glory tasting different kinds of wines. The lady offered me some white grape juice -- sweet and good.
While the other four are savoring the wine, I'm sitting at a nearby wooden table getting caught up on this diary. It's so relaxing and enjoyable.
The town is so quaint and clean and peaceful. The weather is just perfect. We strolled through the streets enjoying the simplicity of the houses, the statues of Mary or some saint attached or built into the front, second floor, of some houses. I hope the faith that put these there, still continues in the residents.

Lunch outside at a restaurant was another joy. Two caged rabbits looked on as we ate lunch. HV had her wine, of course, which was so robust it had "legs" all around the glass after it was swirled. She was content.

We visited two old churches and took pictures. One was the "Church of the Holy Blood" where a eucharistic miracle took place centuries prior. The box covering the place where the Eucharist had been desecrated by a Moor or Turk and where blood had flowed out was at a side altar.The old walls were built in the 1300's and the "new" ones in the 1500's. A few stories were told about them. Flowers were and there on houses, in pots in front of the houses and in hanging pots. Up and down the streets til we see an ice cream shop. The WC, as usual, was clean and modern. The back room had granite tiles on the floor. This was not a ritzy place, but clean and well kept.

As time was running out, as usual, we walked toward the train station. Of course, I had to stop at a bakery to get some pastries for supper.

We caught the train back to Nurenberg to find a church for Mass. Richard knew of the Church of Our Lady a few blocks from the subway. Only 15 min. til Mass. Claire brought her small N.T. so we could at least follow the two readings. Of course, everything was in German. The only German song we know is the drinking song Richard taught us:

"Eye-in pro-sit (2) Zur Geh-mewt-lich-kite" (phonetically spelled).

A toast, a toast to celebrating with friends -- is what it means, roughly.

As we struggled with the German lyrics, we started to giggle and tried to smother it lest we anger nearby Church-goers.

Then we crossed the square to have bratwurst, a beer and the pastries we had bought earlier. Returned to Erlangen.

Sunday, May 3 Linderhof

Richard had rented a car for the day to drive to Ettal. This town contains the second largest monastery (Benedictines) and the palace of King Ludwig II, a.k.a. "Loopy Louie" or "Crazy Louie," called Linderhof.

We took the tour. A beautiful sunny (not hot) day. Such an extravagant spectacle of narcissism! Gold leaf all over. Tall mirrors bedecked many walls. He was 6'3" tall. His bedroom, the biggest, was where he held court in the morning and evening (cuz Louis XIV of France did).

In bed he could see out to his Neptune cascading fountain.

All the possible flower beds had no flowers. That was disappointing.

His dining room table (small, just for him) would descend into the kitchen where his servants put the food on and had it ascend after the food was set on it. He rarely had visitors or guests. Richard Wagner was the only "friend" or "patron" Louie welcomed. Wagoner gave him a piano which we saw.

The smaller buildings at a short distance from the palace were places Louie would go to fantacize and dream away. Three of them were the Moorish Kiosk, the Morrocan Kiosk and the Venus Grotto where we saw lavish displays of color and design. The grotto was made to look like a cave with manmade stalactites and stalagmites, a pool, fountain, a gaudy little shell boat, a shell shaped throne and various colored lights. Wagoner's music was in the background.

After pooping out from all the walking we got an ice cream cone, souvenir and a visit to the WC before starting the 3-hour drive back.

Traveled over 100 mph, at times, on the autobahn. Upon arriving in Erlangen, we dined at the local beer garden "Steinbach." Caught a bus home. We always had about a 1/4 mile to walk after leaving the bus or train or tram, except when we took a taxi (2 times).

The fragrance of the lilacs was so wonderful and reminiscent of Ogdensburg growing-up days. And there were various shades of lilacs: deep purple, lavender, and white. So many houses with small bits of lawn contained such lovely flowers!

Monday, May 4 Preparation Day
Got up leisurely. Claire made her super crepes for us. Richard had already left for the bakery nearby. We talked and laughed all through the breakfast. Sooo pleasant!

Again a nice day, windy, 50's.

Started packing to leave at 4:15 today to catch the Nuremberg-Frankfurt train. The plan was that the three of us and Kathy would sleep overnight there in Frankfurt, in a hotel near the airport, so as not to rush to catch our plane which leaves at 10:45 a.m.

Had pizza and beer for lunch. Kathy played a piano piece. Claire and HV and Richard returned empty bottles to the recycling place and looked around a typical grocery store.

According to plan we packed up and left Erlangen at 4:15 via two taxis. Richard came with us as far as Nuremberg. What a fantastic guy! Gentle, thinking ahead, calm, mysterious, not too self-revelatory, a loving husband, etc. We bid him good-bye. Kathy continued on with us. She has been sooo thoughtful, kind, and patient.

At the airport we said a warm good-bye to Kathy and she followed us from the other side of the security check point as we walked toward C-16, a long walk.

We boarded in about an hour, on time. Again, excellent service. Saw movies: "Slumdog Millionaire" and "Marley and Me."

Oh! Are we ever tired of flying!!! We've two and a half hours left out of 10 and a half!! Our plane LH440 is finally over the USA; no more Atlantic Ocean. Thank God.

What a wonderful, unforgettable visit to Germany and The Netherlands. Thank you so much, Kathy and Richard!

Poets and Thinkers

The Wartburg was founded in 1067 by a Frankish Count called Ludwig der Springer (Louis the Leaper). The Wartburg is in Thüringen, but Ludwig's possessions were in Franken. No problem. Ludwig had 12 of his knights bring some dirt with them, and they scattered the dirt on the present site of the Wartburg. When confronted by the real owners (the Lords of Frankenstein), Ludwig said truthfully that he built his castle on his own soil.









Ludwig's grandson, Ludwig II the Iron, who appears in one of Thuringia's best-known sagas, "The Blacksmith of Ruhla". (The smith advises Ludwig on how to rule saying, "Be hard, as hard as this iron". Ludwig was, and the enemies he made caused him to wear a suit of iron.) Ludwig became the Landgraf (a count who who had feudal duty directly to the Holy Roman Emperor) in 1140 at the age of 12, and eventually expanded the Wartburg considerably. He built the first stone structures of the castle.

Ludwig III was the eldest son of Ludwig the Iron, and he built the neoclassical palace, which is one of the best examples of secular Romanesque architecture north of the Alps. It includes the cross-vaulted Knights' Hall, the Singer's Hall





Hermann I was the third son of Ludwig the Iron, and he became Count when his oldest brother died. He married the half-sister of the Holy Roman Emperor, Frederick Barbarossa. He had the third floor added to the palace, and made it into a single large hall. This hall became the inspiration for the Meistersinger's Hall in Neuschwanstein when Ludwig II, the king of Bavaria, visited the Wartburg. Hermann was fond of Minnesingers (troubadours), and was a patron of Wolfram von Eschenbach (who wrote one of the most inspiring epics of the Middle Ages: Parzival), Walter von der Vogelweide (Unter der linden), Albrecht von Halberstadt (who produced a German version of Ovid's Metamorphosiis), Heinrich von Veldeke (who wrote the Eneide). These Minnesingers praised the eight nobel virtues: minne (adoration of a woman through service), êhe (honorable lifestyle and social acknowledgement), âventiure (trial by combat) ), mâze( reason and tamed instinct), zuht (self discipline), staete (fidelity), fröude (good cheer), hôher muot (spirit). The most famous legend of Mideaval Thuringia concerns the Sängerkrieg (Battle of the Bards) between the six best Minnesinger of the day. All except one, Heinrich von Ofterdingen, praised good princes and especially to Hermann. Ofterdingen praised the Duke of Austria, and caused a heated argument. They all decided that the loser should have his head chopped off. The five ganged up on Ofterdingen, until Ofterdingen cried "Oh, I summon thee hither, Klingsor of Hungary! Though thou be across the seas!" And then Ofterdingen fled to the feet of the Duchess, and took refuge in the folds of her cloak. The Duchess called for a year's cooling-off time, and Klingsor would be brought to the Wartburg to be the judge of the Sängerkriieg. Ofterdingen went to Hungary and explained the situation. He stayed with Klingsor for a year, until the night before the Sängerkrieg. Ofterdingen was impatient and worried. But Klingsor was a wizard, and he put Ofterdingen under a deep sleep, then he instructed his spirits, led by the Hound of Hell, to transport him and Ofterdingen to Eisenach, where the Wizard predicted the birth of a baby girl (Elisabeth) to the King of Hungary. The next day the contest was held, and Ofterdingen proclaimed his patron to the sun, while the other Minnesinger compared Hermann to the day, which the sun merely follows. Klingsor proclaimed that if the sun didn't light the earth, then there would be no day. So the contest was declared a tie, and no one was executed.

The Singer's Hall is painted with frescoes of the Battle, along with a copy of a medieval book that tells about 137 Minnesingers, including those in the Battle of the Bards.




The birth of Elisabeth (mentioned in the Sängerkrieg legend) is a historical fact. Hermann had Elisabeth brought to the Wartburg when she was four years old, and Elisabeth was betrothed to Hermann's son. Hermann's son died just before taking over for his father, and so a different son, Ludwig IV, married Elisabeth four years later when she was 14 and he was 20. The Duchess is known for her charity, and she had a hospice opened at the bottom of the hill below the Wartburg. Her charity wasn't appreciated by the Duke, however, and the Duchess had to smuggle bread out of the Wartburg to feed the poor. One day she was confronted by her husband, and was forced to reveal was she was hiding. Whe she opened her robes, the bread turned into roses. Elisabeth died a few years later at the age of 24, and was sainted 4 years after that.







Elisabeth's room in the Wartburg was covered in mosaics in 1902 with scenes of her life.



















A couple of centuries afer Elisabeth lived in the Wartburg, Martin Luther came for a stay. In 1517 Dr. Luther pinned his 95 Theses attacking the sale of pardons on the church door in Wittenburg, where he held the Biblical Chair at the University. Pope Leo IX brought Luther to Rome, and then to the Papal Legate in Augsburg in 1518. Luther demanded that a Council be summoned, and people started taking sides. Luther wrote a manifesto called "To the Christian Nobles of the German Nation on the Improvement of the Christian Estate." in 1520. The Pope threatened to excommunicate Luther if he didn't recant, which Luther wouldn't do, so he was excommunicated in 1521. Those of his secular supporters who had influence, including his Prince Elector (Philip the Wise), managed to obtain a hearing for Luther at the Diet of Worms. The hearing lasted several days before the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, issued the Edict of Worms making Luther and his supporters heretics. The separation of Church and State didn't exist in the Holy Roman Empire, and the Edict meant that Luther had no rights, so anyone could to anything they wanted to Luther, including killing him, without penalty. So Luther needed a hiding place. On April 26, 1521, he left Worms for Wittenburg, and on May 1 he arrived in Eisenach. He was so popular that he preached on the following day. Then, on his way to Wittenburg on May 4, he was kidnapped from his cart and taken to the Wartburg. When he arrived, he learned that the ringleader was the castle commander, and so Luther let himself be taken into protective custody, not being allowed to leave the Bailiff's house. He grew his beard and wore the clothes of a squire (Junker), after which he became known as Junker Jörg. He spent his time reading the original (Greek and Hebrew) texts of the bible in order to avoid the alterations in the Latin translations, and he translated the originals into German so that average people could read it. This was also heresy, because the only official accepted version of the Bible was the Latin version, it was not permitted to read the bible unless you were a priest. Along the way, Luther created a type of German that could be read regardless of which dialect you spoke. This would end up having a big effect on the High German spoken today. (Goethe claimed three centuries later that it was through Luther that the Germans became a Nation.) Luther left the Wartburg with a completed translation on March 1, 1522.

One of Luther's early bibles is on display in the Wartburg Museum. You can also see the room where he stayed, and the desk where he worked on his translation. Above the desk is a portrait of Luther in his disguise as Junker Jörg. Next to the desk is a ceramic oven used to heat the room. The wall behind the oven was not plastered, and in the wood and stones of the wall it is said that Luther saw the devil. (According to legend, everyone who comes to understand the bible sees the devil on the momentous occasion.) Luther supposedly threw an ink pot at the devil, and ink spattered on the wall. The ink renews itself, and can still be seen today, though I had to use a lot of imagination to see it.

Konfirm-ed!

(written by Kathy)
Sunday, March 22, we had the honor of being invited to Anna B's confirmation.

Indulge us in a couple of memories, guaranteed to make Anna self-conscious. The first time we saw Anna was on a visit to Germany about 12 years ago. She was just 2, and had a lot of personality, as two-year-olds do. But looking back, it was obvious that even then, she was a people person, and always wanted to be sure you were having a good time. She spoke "baby German", but even I understood that I was being pulled into her room to play with her stuffed animals. Once there, I was told "Setz dich! Setz dich!" - sit down, sit down! I was handed a black and white stuffed cat, and play proceeded. Later that visit - it was Christmas time - Richard and I and Peter (her father) took her out for a sleigh ride in the below freezing weather. Her mother, Ulla, was getting the Christmas tree put up and decorated. We helped Anna put on her "handschuhi" - mittens (pronounced "hahnd-shoe-ee" in baby German), and went out. It was a challenge for us adults to stay warm, but Anna fell asleep all bundled up!

The next time we saw her, she was around 6, and wanted to hold both our hands as she skipped through the open-air farm museum. She was singing songs and telling Brothers Grimm stories, but not the sanitized Disney versions! In the story she learned, Cinderella's step sisters went so far as to cut off their toes so that the shoe would fit. I was surprised to hear a 6-year-old singing "Hallooo, hallooo! Es gibt Blut im Schuh!" German kids are raised with a much less candy-coated view of things.

So, now she's 14, and it's time for the big celebration for her Confirmation in the Protestant Church. Richard thought of it as a "coming-out party." Ulla compared it to planning a wedding. Invitations were sent out, and a big meal was planned at a very nice Fraenkisch restaurant/beer brewery a few km away. The family was occupied for weeks before, planning the party, and getting all the "girls" new dresses, and Peter a new suit. Anna helped design a silver and garnet ring that was the gift from her parents, and her grandfather gave her matching earrings. Unfortunately, they aren't seen in the picture at the right.

So, the service: it was our first Protestant service in German. And it was mostly clearly comprehensible, except, as Richard joked, for one Fraenkisch (local dialect) phrase that the pastor inserted into the sermon. The readings and prayers were familiar, and some of the hymns had familiar tunes. It was good that the words to the hymns were printed out, so that we could sing along. The creed, the Abendmahl/Eucharist liturgy, and the Our Father were all familiar, but we couldn't have recited the German words (which we didn't have in front of us) only because of sheer lack of practice. But the sermon was delivered in lively fashion by the 42-year-old pastor, who asked, "What is one thing people can depend on, that's consistent in their lives?" And he pulled an FC Bayern scarf out of the pulpit, and put it around his neck, to the chuckles of the reserved congregation. FC Bayern are the Yankees of the soccer world here in Germany. You either hate 'em, or you love 'em. As he went on, he pulled out an FC Nürnberg scarf (they lost their first-league status last year), also to chuckles, and made the point that some people stick by their team even when it's disappointing. And then he said, "But I have someone who always sticks with me, through thick and thin, and never disappoints." At this point, he opened his robe to reveal a yellow and green T-shirt that said "Jesus is my coach" and so made the point to the confirmation class that they should be depending on God for guidance and help. Then he introduced the WWJD bracelet that he wore, and told us what the English was. Then he translated it into Fraenkisch "Was wuerde Jesus doa?", which sounds so much like the English version that we thought it was funny. It also brought laughter from the local population. The confirmation class would all receive a wrist band at the "memorial" service the next day.

The confirmation class were asked to confirm their beliefs in the church, and received a blessing from the pastor while kneeling on a pad put on the edge of the podium for that purpose. The girls were obviously nervous, almost to the point of breaking out into a fit of giggles, but they mastered themselves. Anna confirmed later that when they had to leave their seats, stand before the pastor and kneel to receive his blessing was the most nerve-wracking part. So they passed from "Konfirmandinnen" - those to be confirmed, to "Konfirmierten" - those who have been confirmed. Leave it to the German language to put it so succinctly.

At one point, the Pastor got out his guitar, and accompanied himself while singing a song that fit the occasion. Anna said that this was one of his more interesting services, that he had put extra effort into this one, and that normally, it's not nearly so interesting. I sympathized, admitting that people "our age" (in our 40's) have no business trying to be cool. At the end of the service, the choir - a very good group - sang an African song with full voice, complete with drums and rhythmic clapping, and the pastor motioned for people to get up and get with the beat. I'd guess about a quarter of the congregation did. Later I learned that had it not been a complete surprise, more of the reserved German crowd might have been prepared to join in, but as they were used to very solemn, peaceful services, they were quite taken aback by the sudden frivolity.

At the restaurant we enjoyed conversations with the family members and close friends who have watched Anna grow up. Anna gave a little speech with lots of composure after the champagne was served. Maybe her leading roles in the school plays were paying off. Anna's godmother was there. In Germany, there is only one godparent named. It's customarily the mother's sister for the oldest girl, or a close male relative for the oldest boy. If the "godparent" is an aunt, she's referred to as the "Patintante", in rough translation, the godmother-aunt.

I had a chance to talk to Ulla's father, Herr A. He is always interesting to talk with, and admits to being a fan of America. He's been there several times. He recalled one trip, where he was with a group of 20 Germans, and the trip leader had planned an excursion to a Baptist Church in Brooklyn. The Church had extended an invitation, and 20 white Germans enjoyed a visit to this all-black congregation, who welcomed the visitors warmly and proceeded with an energetic form of worship. Herr Ackermann remembers the loud preaching, and the wholehearted singing, clapping and dancing during the hymns. He quite enjoyed it, he says, and wishes there would be more such celebratory worship in Northern Europe.

At one point, when we were all digesting and the conversation had died down, Ulla asked Anna's friend, Laura, to play some things on her guitar for us. That was a treat! Laura played a couple pieces that she had brought the music for, and attempted a couple that she knew by heart. I enjoyed her playing, and admired her guts for playing even the things she didn't completely know. Apparently, she also plays the piano well.

Another cultural tidbit: at the restaurant, the ample meal included "Festtagssuppe", or festival day soup. Ulla explained that this was simply the Fraenkisch wedding soup renamed. The soup includes light-colored grain dumplings (Griesskloesse) and darker-colored liver dumplings (Leberknoedeln) to symbolize the woman and the man, respectively. Strips of German pancakes/crepes floating in the broth symbolize the family and friends around them.

We were well fed! First came champagne with elderberry syrup. Then the soup (delicious). The menu included a salad of lambs quarters with sautéed mushrooms and small cubes of bacon (again, delicious), a choice of either breast of roast duck or pork loin, each with its own sauce and accompanying vegetables, and, as dessert, a formed frozen hazelnut ice cream with marzipan coating, accompanied by sour cherries marinated in red wine - delicious! Richard said it was the best duck breast he had ever had. My pork tenderloins were tender, and the green pepper sauce was a delicious enhancement. We were pleasantly full.

Then, the family and most of the guests got up for a walk in the fresh air. By this time it had turned a bit windy and colder. So some of us stayed inside; for us, it was sheer laziness. Mistake! Richard and I missed out on seeing a Wasserschloss, a small castle in the middle of a pond, just a few blocks down the street. And we again realized our mistake (that of missing out on the exercise) when the cakes and tortes started coming out, and the coffee cups were distributed. By then it was about 4 pm, time for Kaffee und Kuchen! The tortes were confections full of cream, and topped with nuts and chocolate, berries or fruit. There was also a cheese cake, and a couple of cakes topped with berries and a variety of fruits. In all there were seven different confections to choose from. And for good measure, a bowl full of the lightest whipped cream I have ever encountered. As people left, Ulla gave everybody paper plates to take home as many pieces as they could. Those calories will be with us long after the memories fade!

At the end, lest Anna's younger sister, Pia-Selina, feel neglected, we want her to know that we look forward to her confirmation in about three years, and think that she is just as special as Anna, with her own unique talents.