Monday, May 04, 2009

Aunt Cathy's Visit

Kathy's Aunt Cathy wrote this blog about her visit to Germany with two of her friends, Claire and Hortensia, also known as HV.

VACATION 2009

April 23: Thurs. 5:00 p.m.
We're on Lufthansa 747 now awaiting departure. It'll take 9 hrs. and 10 minutes to get to Frankfurt.
An "hour delay" turned into 2 hrs. Called Bob to ask him to call Kathy to inform her of this change. He said she would know by contacting the airport.
It's now 7:15 and we're rolling down the Houston runway, finally. I sure hope they fixed that right fourth engine well. Scary!

We landed safe and pooped. And there was Kathy!! She popped her head out from the other side as the security(?) doors opened and closed. I'll never forget her welcoming face at that moment.

We got our luggage with no problems. Airport construction sent us on a winding path, but when we got at the baggage claim -- there all our luggage was with no one around. They arrived on time, we didn't.
The I.C.E. (intercity express train) is so quiet and smooth running. No parallel in the US. They're clean, have snack-and-beer stands in one car. Passengers are polite and helpful.

6:00 Finally arrived in Erlangen. Had pizza and into bed. We're all so tired. I emailed Bob while at table.
9:15 Prayed with Claire and H.V. and "hit the hay."

Saturday, April 25
Slept okay, despite Claire's snoring. HV, on a cot in the living room, was awakened to a symphony of birds. It's beautiful outside. From her window I see 6 pink tulips and a bunch of daffodils. Ah! a nice cool breeze!
We were awakened this morning by HV jumping onto the space between Claire and me in our bed. It was 8:00! Breakfast was all beautifully set: hard rolls, banana bread, cereals and delicious coffee (made in Richard's unique coffee maker)! Just lovely. We ate and talked and laughed. After breakfast Claire and HV played on the computer. We five talked til about 10:00-10:30, then left for downtown Walked to the plaza where we saw beautiful old buildings, flower and fresh produce and cheese tents or stands -- bustling with activity. An organ grinder with his macaw could be heard and seen. Later other street musicians entertained for donations as we walked along. We joined Christina and Michael for lunch, sandwich and a beer. Walked along the narrow streets, careful not to get on the red brick bicycle path. We talked at length over lunch then walked to see the botanical gardens. Wow! so beautiful!! all kinds of colors of tulips, alyssum, daisies, dianthus and blooming cacti and orchids, etc.
"Excuse me," (Entschuldigung) and thanks (Danke) were two phrases I learned in German and often used. Went for ice cream and walked back to the bus stop and home for 6:00 Mass (in German, of course!). When we got back with feet tired and aching, Richard had a wonderful supper ready: salmon, fried potato slices, and buttery and sweet carrots. We talked and laughed til about 9:30. Did dishes, showered and to bed.

Sunday, April 26
Leave for Amsterdam adventure, which will take four days total.
Several train delays --no matter. I write this on the DB train to Frankfurt. We chatted and laughed as we waited for this train to come. Richard bought me a coffee and some cookies. Dozed off a bit.
Arrived in Ruedesheim around 3:00. Walked 4-5 blocks to our hotel. The Rhine River is so beautiful. It runs parallel to the railroad tracks and a busy shop-filled street.
Got settled in our hotel. Our second floor room has a small balcony with a table and two chairs. We can look down onto an open restaurant well decorated.
Kathy, HV, Claire and I and Richard took a cab to a mountain restaurant overlooking the Rhine. What a magnificent view!! Had an apple pastry and coffee, the others had wine or beer.
HV and Richard hiked to some castle ruins some 40 minutes away while the three of us taxied back. On the way Kathy asked the cab driver to take a slight detour to see St. Hildegard Church. When we got there they were having Vespers and Benediction. We stayed 10 minutes, then headed back left. Then we strolled along the river while waiting for HV and Richard to get back. We all had a German supper at a restaurant around 8:00. Food was good. I had Delter(?)-schnitzel. The salad had sauerkraut in it.
We were all so tired and needed a good night sleep. We were to leave via boat up the Rhine at 9:15 a.m. so up at 7 a.m., breakfast at 7:30, pack up and pay bill by 8:30 at which time we walked down to the KD boat dock. That was the plan
The streets of Ruedesheim were narrow and quaint. Grapevines perforated the hillsides and are used as canopies in alleys, on houses, etc. K & R are so giving. Anything we wanted they arranged it. I hope we're not too much for them.

Monday, April 27
Good morning! Cloudy and a little breeze but the sun is peeking out. Up at 6:45 and a great German breakfast at 7:40. I wrote in the hotel book and we walked down to our boat (a couple of blocks) The Asbach. It's a two-decker.
What a wonderful boat trip, up the Rhine River! We sat outside and saw all the old castles and Loreley (a rock mountain where many boats crashed due to the swift current, shallow water and rocky banks). People and tourists got on and off at various small towns. Enjoyed some hot chocolate leisurely sitting on the deck. Took lots of pics. Got off the boat at Koblenz at 1:15 and slowly headed by train toward Koeln (Cologne), where we changed trains. I'm so sleepy.
Walked slowly, drinking coffee or eating ice cream.
Now we're leaving Koeln for Amsterdam in the Netherlands, a different country. It's 6 p.m.
Robert, a fellow train rider who happened to have a reserved seat in our same compartment, said: "Do not ask for 'brownies' or 'space cakes' or 'cake' while in Amsterdam. Don't go to coffee shop because Marijuana (5 grams) legal to have, is sold there. And prostitution is legal also."
Arrived in Amsterdam at 9:15 p.m. With the "admonitions" of Robert, I was scared to step off the train for fear of a "gypsy" stealing my passport or bag. We got the right bus and got off two canals from our hotel street. Our hotel was down this narrow street, but was very nice and had good service. Comfy beds, modern wash bowl and shower. No face cloths are provided. I'm glad Kathy gave us a special cloth to serve as a facecloth wherever we went.
We were hungry so went to the bar where the sole waiter ("Amin" --what a character!) served us sandwich makings and drinks, and even ice cubes!
We talked and laughed for an hour. I left around 11:15 to shower, write this and get some sleep.
Gathering in the lobby will be 8:00 a.m.

Tuesday, April 28

We ate a delicious bagel and coffee at a nearby Bagel Shop. Mine was a walnut and raisin cream cheese on a pumpernickel bagel. The coffee serving was a bit small, but good.
Left on a train to pick up another train to the Gardens. Arrived there around 10:00 a.m. It rained all day, but not hard. We were prepared and didn't let it stop us from this feast of the senses! What beauty!!! So many various shaped beds of a variety of tulips (mostly), muscari, daffodils, pansies, pentas,azaleas, hyacinths, cherry trees in full bloom, japanese maple trees, cypress and linden trees; also peonies, daisies and paperwhites, etc. The fields of tulips being prepared to ship everywhere. The color designs, the hybrids, art pieces, fountains and one windmill -- all so artistically arranged and breath-taking. I took loads of pictures.
We stopped for a bit to eat. I ate an almond cookie with coffee. The place was packed with many visitors, esp. the elderly and infirm.
It was well set up and maintained.
We continued on our sprinkling garden journey, heading toward the Beatrix (named after the present queen whose 72nd birthday would be on Thursday) pavilion. Once there (after the Japanese garden and windmill) we ate lunch. Since we were chilled, hot chocolate and soup were at the top of the menu. After lunch we walked on -- such beauty!
I took lots of camera shots.
Of course, it stopped raining a few minutes before we left. No time for poffertjes (3" pancake-like).

When we got back to the hotel, we looked for a restaurant and came upon Vooges, a small Dutch restaurant. I had lamb on a skewer, three others had rib-eye and Kathy had Keto Prak, an Indonesian salad. Supper was enjoyed at an easy pace. Lots of talking and laughing. Walked back to our hotel and slept.

Wednesday, April 29
We agreed that we all needed to get more sleep. So breakfast was at 9:00 at the same place.
Next was the 20 minute hurried walk to Anne Frank's house. The long waiting line moved fast. The hour-long tour had excerpts from her diary. The small rooms were dark and somber. Saw the wall library that concealed their hiding place. Videos 1-3 minutes long in various rooms explained about Anne's family and friends lived there in hiding. Auschwitz and other concentration camps were so horrible! With such photos and witnesses, how can anyone deny its existence. Germans are doing all that they can to change the world's perception of them. WWII Nazism is their shame as slavery is ours. Going up the small, narrow stairs for the three floors and back rooms was saddening as I realized that in my lifetime and the year I was born, 1944, Anne was living - hiding - here and writing of her fears, hopes and dreams. She hid there 25 months until someone snitched on them. The two families were taken off to the camps. she died in 1945 of Typhus and all, except her father, died in the camps. He was given her diary by Miep, his secretary, who had kept it for him. He had never read it before as Anne had asked him not to. When he did for the first time, he was surprised at the depth of her thought. "Parents, you never really know the mind of your children."
It was an experience -- moving, inspiring and scary.
We walked back to our hotel. Richard had gone ahead to check us out of the hotel, placing our bags securely in a side room. He waited for us there. We plodded to the train station to leave our bags in two lockers so we could shop around without luggage.
We walked into the Red Light district where all the good restaurants and shops were located. We landed in a Spanish restaurant called La Paella. This is what I ordered (la paella). It was good. It was quiet and peaceful. The soft music in the background helped us relax too.
Train leaves at 4:30 so we decided to look around a few shops near the Amsterdam Centraal.
HV wanted to saunter, look around, "take in" the environment, and shop.

A 3-hour train ride to Koeln (kooln) or Cologne. As we stepped out of the train station --WHAM! There is was, the Cathedral! Huge Gothic church uplifting me up to heaven as I stood close to it and looked up.
Walked to find our Merian Hotel, then went walking to supper at Peter's Brew House (a brewery of Koelsch beer). We could not find the place for a while. After walking we finally found it. It was really close to our hotel, but we had gone a mile out of our way. Whew!
I had goulash with rye bread -- so hearty. We shared each other's dishes -- fried Camembert cheese with cranberry jam, black pudding (HV), two kinds of meat (beef tartar and spiced ground pork, both raw) (Claire) and herring in a cream sauce (Kathy). Their little 6 oz beers were good. The glasses were tall and narrow.
Tomorrow we'll take a better and inside view of the Cathedral and some other sights before leaving for Erlangen.

Thursday, April 30
A lovely breakfast, beautiful and simple in its layout, a spread of five cheeses and meat slices, and eggs prepared three different ways, three different jams and three kinds of bread, fruit, pats of butter in small glass dishes, juices, coffee and tea!
Then we left to see the Cathedral of Sts. Mary and Peter, the 2nd highest in the world. An old Gothic church, made in 1248. It underwent many additions, pauses and resumptions. Once inside, I was awestruck by the soaring height, soul-swooping, heaven-bound, indescribable architecture. Wow!




Our hour-long guided tour highlighted the main pieces of art as we walked through the church.




Very upsetting to me was that the main focus, via lighting and position, was the three kings' reliquary, a big gold box containing the bones and skulls of Caspar, Melchior and Balthazar (lol)!! When I asked where the Eucharist was, he said, " in a side chapel".

The old carvings, side altars and statues and crucifixes had wonderful histories behind them and many healing miracles attributed to them.

Claire and I returned to the cathedral at noon to hear the organ being played at the beginning of noon divine office.


We then got a bus to the Schockolade Museum. Lindt chocolates are made there and the whole story of how the cacao bean is grown and processed was shown from beginning to wrapped chocolate end. Three floors of teaching forms show both children and adults about Linnaeus' work in classifying plants, and the discovery of and uses of the cocoa bean in history in various countries. In the production process, there was and is the exploitation of the workers in Ghana, Bolivia, Mexico, Indonesia, Honduras, etc. The "Fair Market Agreement" and "GEPA" are trying to improve the inhumane treatment of the workers wherever cocoa is produced and shipped.

The stories behind the artifacts were interesting, as we moved from one exhibit to the next.

The best part was going to their restaurant, on the veranda, overlooking the Rhine. We ordered their special pizza, and a wonderful decadent chocolate dessert with coffee.

Then a MAD dash to catch our 3:45 train to Nurnberg. First we walked fast (even H.V.!) to a bus stop. No bus came. Tried another -- only to find a sign which said: Due to construction, this bus stop has been moved until further notice. So we dashed to a tram, then a subway. We decided Kathy and HV should walk over to the train station while Richard, Claire and I raced back (we had 15 minutes only) to the hotel to retrieve all the luggage! Claire pooped out half way there. When Richard and I (a short distance behind him) returned, Claire lightened our loads.

We did it with five minutes to spare, only to learn the train was delayed!!

Rode smoothly back to Nuremberg, then changed trains to Erlangen. Arrived around 9:00 p.m., took a 10 euros taxi and collapsed. An exciting, full day, indeed.



Friday May 1 Labor Day in Germany

Had a full night's sleep. Once again, Richard and Kathy had prepared a wonderful breakfast: cornmeal pancakes, coffee, juice. We ate leisurely and talked and laughed.
I fell asleep after (and during) prayer on their porch. Claire got into her email, Richard worked on his book binding and Kathy practiced her piano and did laundry, H.V. called her friend and her daughter and granddaughter, then helped hang the laundry with Kathy and Claire. Oh, yah, we also munched out on chocolate bought yesterday. Mmmm.
Around 5:30 p.m. we left for an Italian restaurant a few blocks over. One area outside had fragrant purple wisteria in full bloom -- beautiful. The bees also loved the fragrance so we sat at another outside table. The food and service was good. We talked and laughed for at least an hour. Their bathroom door signs were "unique." Strolled back home. Relaxed with a variety of liqueurs while Kathy prepared for train and mass schedules for the next day. She's always looking ahead so everything runs as smoothly as possible. The balance of tasks and abilities that she and Richard share is amazing. they compliment and appreciate each other's gifts.
We konked out around 10:30 p.m.

[Did you know Henry Kissinger was born in Fuerth?]

Saturday, May 2, Wine Day
Up at 8:30ish, simple breakfast and typing the blog for a bit. Left for the train at 10:20. Destination: Iphofen. Again gorgeous, perfect weather. We are so blessed!
We're taking advantage of the W.C. on the trains because they're free. Public places charge 40-50 cents.
The town is quaint. First stop is a wine tasting shop called Winzerkeller Iphofen. Claire and H.V. are in their glory tasting different kinds of wines. The lady offered me some white grape juice -- sweet and good.
While the other four are savoring the wine, I'm sitting at a nearby wooden table getting caught up on this diary. It's so relaxing and enjoyable.
The town is so quaint and clean and peaceful. The weather is just perfect. We strolled through the streets enjoying the simplicity of the houses, the statues of Mary or some saint attached or built into the front, second floor, of some houses. I hope the faith that put these there, still continues in the residents.



Lunch outside at a restaurant was another joy. Two caged rabbits looked on as we ate lunch. HV had her wine, of course, which was so robust it had "legs" all around the glass after it was swirled. She was content.



We visited two old churches and took pictures. One was the "Church of the Holy Blood" where a eucharistic miracle took place centuries prior. The box covering the place where the Eucharist had been desecrated by a Moor or Turk and where blood had flowed out was at a side altar.The old walls were built in the 1300's and the "new" ones in the 1500's. A few stories were told about them. Flowers were and there on houses, in pots in front of the houses and in hanging pots. Up and down the streets til we see an ice cream shop. The WC, as usual, was clean and modern. The back room had granite tiles on the floor. This was not a ritzy place, but clean and well kept.

As time was running out, as usual, we walked toward the train station. Of course, I had to stop at a bakery to get some pastries for supper.

We caught the train back to Nurenberg to find a church for Mass. Richard knew of the Church of Our Lady a few blocks from the subway. Only 15 min. til Mass. Claire brought her small N.T. so we could at least follow the two readings. Of course, everything was in German. The only German song we know is the drinking song Richard taught us:


"Eye-in pro-sit (2) Zur Geh-mewt-lich-kite" (phonetically spelled).

A toast, a toast to celebrating with friends -- is what it means, roughly.


As we struggled with the German lyrics, we started to giggle and tried to smother it lest we anger nearby Church-goers.

Then we crossed the square to have bratwurst, a beer and the pastries we had bought earlier. Returned to Erlangen.



Sunday, May 3 Linderhof

Richard had rented a car for the day to drive to Ettal. This town contains the second largest monastery (Benedictines) and the palace of King Ludwig II, a.k.a. "Loopy Louie" or "Crazy Louie," called Linderhof.


We took the tour. A beautiful sunny (not hot) day. Such an extravagant spectacle of narcissism! Gold leaf all over. Tall mirrors bedecked many walls. He was 6'3" tall. His bedroom, the biggest, was where he held court in the morning and evening (cuz Louis XIV of France did).

In bed he could see out to his Neptune cascading fountain.

All the possible flower beds had no flowers. That was disappointing.

His dining room table (small, just for him) would descend into the kitchen where his servants put the food on and had it ascend after the food was set on it. He rarely had visitors or guests. Richard Wagner was the only "friend" or "patron" Louie welcomed. Wagoner gave him a piano which we saw.


The smaller buildings at a short distance from the palace were places Louie would go to fantacize and dream away. Three of them were the Moorish Kiosk, the Morrocan Kiosk and the Venus Grotto where we saw lavish displays of color and design. The grotto was made to look like a cave with manmade stalactites and stalagmites, a pool, fountain, a gaudy little shell boat, a shell shaped throne and various colored lights. Wagoner's music was in the background.


After pooping out from all the walking we got an ice cream cone, souvenir and a visit to the WC before starting the 3-hour drive back.


Traveled over 100 mph, at times, on the autobahn. Upon arriving in Erlangen, we dined at the local beer garden "Steinbach." Caught a bus home. We always had about a 1/4 mile to walk after leaving the bus or train or tram, except when we took a taxi (2 times).


The fragrance of the lilacs was so wonderful and reminiscent of Ogdensburg growing-up days. And there were various shades of lilacs: deep purple, lavender, and white. So many houses with small bits of lawn contained such lovely flowers!



Monday, May 4 Preparation Day
Got up leisurely. Claire made her super crepes for us. Richard had already left for the bakery nearby. We talked and laughed all through the breakfast. Sooo pleasant!

Again a nice day, windy, 50's.

Started packing to leave at 4:15 today to catch the Nuremberg-Frankfurt train. The plan was that the three of us and Kathy would sleep overnight there in Frankfurt, in a hotel near the airport, so as not to rush to catch our plane which leaves at 10:45 a.m.

Had pizza and beer for lunch. Kathy played a piano piece. Claire and HV and Richard returned empty bottles to the recycling place and looked around a typical grocery store.

According to plan we packed up and left Erlangen at 4:15 via two taxis. Richard came with us as far as Nuremberg. What a fantastic guy! Gentle, thinking ahead, calm, mysterious, not too self-revelatory, a loving husband, etc. We bid him good-bye. Kathy continued on with us. She has been sooo thoughtful, kind, and patient.

At the airport we said a warm good-bye to Kathy and she followed us from the other side of the security check point as we walked toward C-16, a long walk.

We boarded in about an hour, on time. Again, excellent service. Saw movies: "Slumdog Millionaire" and "Marley and Me."


Oh! Are we ever tired of flying!!! We've two and a half hours left out of 10 and a half!! Our plane LH440 is finally over the USA; no more Atlantic Ocean. Thank God.

What a wonderful, unforgettable visit to Germany and The Netherlands. Thank you so much, Kathy and Richard!