tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-256679382024-03-20T11:16:19.846+01:00Kathy and Richard's Experiences in GermanyHere we're storing our descriptions of our days in Germany from 2006 on. Enjoy!CardinalKathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16340992027479073521noreply@blogger.comBlogger86125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-6577100650534057202023-04-10T17:10:00.007+02:002023-04-11T17:24:27.350+02:00Der Georgiritt, riding with St. George<p> An annual blessing of the horses takes place every Easter Monday in a little town to the east of Erlangen. This year we had great weather, so the onlookers were numerous, and we were too late for Knieküchla, literally "little knee cakes," named because they look like the dough was stretched over the baker's knee before being fried and dredged in sugar. But we saw the parade of horses. It starts out with a procession out of the church led by the local priest and the altar boys carrying a statue of St. George, who is the patron saint of horses and riders.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbMksCUl5zGZ6Ebe5OMbd2ZyL0yB1ij_ZZCHi00xMs5oorxvm6FIL65PmKu0ZUmc6reX4CkTxw9ZlpSRX-yw6MSGVuKJvEOkmZtkg_dKIPEn2OP3CrH_OYLKFakapGdUZFSpDvUfIB00bc1M0xNeuQLu6RPJJO3eOdBMaeIiGFr1aIfIZqw/s4000/20230410_111101.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbbMksCUl5zGZ6Ebe5OMbd2ZyL0yB1ij_ZZCHi00xMs5oorxvm6FIL65PmKu0ZUmc6reX4CkTxw9ZlpSRX-yw6MSGVuKJvEOkmZtkg_dKIPEn2OP3CrH_OYLKFakapGdUZFSpDvUfIB00bc1M0xNeuQLu6RPJJO3eOdBMaeIiGFr1aIfIZqw/s320/20230410_111101.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wooden statue of St. George<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Then the local priest blesses the horses, and a parade begins.<p></p><p>It's led by the mayor </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAl7owlhDU-gh9xzE9Eo6VfCAtf8I3q7wCpv2MsjScBFzd5GI90xRiMdHwwUXTvi-UyqkDhvILsjVGuI-h-m7BK5aiB7ZUUekiXh3U_RYWrIOSnKdBeOIdVmIPUCzqTI27e398hQ28ezPXdQqtD9mGVSA9hyStfGz4ctmd0d2uXdAb-sKZ2w/s1226/20230410_111032(2).jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="969" data-original-width="1226" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAl7owlhDU-gh9xzE9Eo6VfCAtf8I3q7wCpv2MsjScBFzd5GI90xRiMdHwwUXTvi-UyqkDhvILsjVGuI-h-m7BK5aiB7ZUUekiXh3U_RYWrIOSnKdBeOIdVmIPUCzqTI27e398hQ28ezPXdQqtD9mGVSA9hyStfGz4ctmd0d2uXdAb-sKZ2w/s320/20230410_111032(2).jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the mayor<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>and then the local priest</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHp-z8wszvdJrdNwXn4tb2EYi5aiXTZtfSmwPVkllJgYJUY7DmhfpKJOO_PKyKBTRgTV6OcXRMRXDBsreK-Mcs5xp7kYHuhUx0WKuo0vfvrh9T3hYFKg7kDo5IcDIfspBNCaQlXV-ZGqwI3xdcioHH6bXDQG_G8lh4n64D-i5DritcC8QZ8w/s4000/20230410_111116.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHp-z8wszvdJrdNwXn4tb2EYi5aiXTZtfSmwPVkllJgYJUY7DmhfpKJOO_PKyKBTRgTV6OcXRMRXDBsreK-Mcs5xp7kYHuhUx0WKuo0vfvrh9T3hYFKg7kDo5IcDIfspBNCaQlXV-ZGqwI3xdcioHH6bXDQG_G8lh4n64D-i5DritcC8QZ8w/s320/20230410_111116.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the local priest<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Next are the drums. The rest of the band must wait back a distance behind the horses. Horses are easily spooked.<p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX3jx_WV5BYgxPk67rb7lMYOenXjEd9dpRjRyLWPo8Pxoew1ADwAnToNuoxa74qxmhO-lIYuL5T-0aPWVpCymlDGJXpSjG3ZORpr-rVLrfmvqlcqXGgDKfX8m_tt5Ep3Zuiw5FyUSaffJ5tqteEsTMVAtCaVtTz_WKwcLUXnw7E5h9J9NWJw/s3000/20230410_111051.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="2695" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX3jx_WV5BYgxPk67rb7lMYOenXjEd9dpRjRyLWPo8Pxoew1ADwAnToNuoxa74qxmhO-lIYuL5T-0aPWVpCymlDGJXpSjG3ZORpr-rVLrfmvqlcqXGgDKfX8m_tt5Ep3Zuiw5FyUSaffJ5tqteEsTMVAtCaVtTz_WKwcLUXnw7E5h9J9NWJw/s320/20230410_111051.jpg" width="287" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">drums don't spook the horses?<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p> </p><p>A wagon carrying people in traditional costumes (Tracht, pronounced "traht") comes next. Notice the young unmarried women with the crowns. The woman who graciously let us take her picture with Richard wore Tracht that she inherited from her grandmother. Most of her clothing was 100 years old.<br /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><br /> </p><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Su80QpSn0XVv8bGUAiX1BbSxEo8Ypb94VvxYlT3Z5rW4KpVceqP05ZNAZjk0guKFBUHQsaGkvVmklV60_e4LOfYBnYhQ1K3yNId4-qCHmhsznSw8xqZXNledHPsGv9Zj0sMEyXDOi3uAxhoN_UbhBPtV1KwyUkBKrkDW0hyghJKkgGRL1Q/s4000/20230410_111123.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Su80QpSn0XVv8bGUAiX1BbSxEo8Ypb94VvxYlT3Z5rW4KpVceqP05ZNAZjk0guKFBUHQsaGkvVmklV60_e4LOfYBnYhQ1K3yNId4-qCHmhsznSw8xqZXNledHPsGv9Zj0sMEyXDOi3uAxhoN_UbhBPtV1KwyUkBKrkDW0hyghJKkgGRL1Q/s320/20230410_111123.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">people in tracht<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivAyizbTQkW8amrd8tyDvQ2CgoNsdr8rnWgntB_mX76wy0GEEhcn5XVRwXTCPMCWq2oUe1VjWd2wVdKUI8lDYyhBcFaJspf4rgE4ehtFyHcyu9Pj3BKBIeB6bzT0dayslh1al3QTvKsUr9krgs-BFXy8TsTKyo32UWGOmSUkkXFBIUl3pG0w/s4000/20230410_113048.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivAyizbTQkW8amrd8tyDvQ2CgoNsdr8rnWgntB_mX76wy0GEEhcn5XVRwXTCPMCWq2oUe1VjWd2wVdKUI8lDYyhBcFaJspf4rgE4ehtFyHcyu9Pj3BKBIeB6bzT0dayslh1al3QTvKsUr9krgs-BFXy8TsTKyo32UWGOmSUkkXFBIUl3pG0w/s320/20230410_113048.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">maidens' crowns</td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ta-70tG0KcI6t_fRxL4v1HK7xbSS2UsDY1EHxSTwco3CEkvPyuUNlAZ4B5O26RhAClcyqhsMlwL88SMgxLpG1a45Vi5Ozcs35Ydeo4QpUIStrwqjYaW575Mxqid-tNrd3LuwRCylv6KRpgKAtJJ-p-nq9lzqGuXGWlJe2m1yny_qt2pX9Q/s2886/20230410_112141.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2886" data-original-width="1699" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ta-70tG0KcI6t_fRxL4v1HK7xbSS2UsDY1EHxSTwco3CEkvPyuUNlAZ4B5O26RhAClcyqhsMlwL88SMgxLpG1a45Vi5Ozcs35Ydeo4QpUIStrwqjYaW575Mxqid-tNrd3LuwRCylv6KRpgKAtJJ-p-nq9lzqGuXGWlJe2m1yny_qt2pX9Q/s320/20230410_112141.jpg" width="188" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">100-year old Tracht<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Next come the beautiful horses. <br /><p></p><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXUg8o7jLnHH3FbD4soTTUoBtAGqNEdpHkjAhViQeGuoN2ubwC8gzazB71gNg8GZsxUfKdXikLBN12uGCZHgO3zXh8jadspDQ_3VboDMtPac_SeFPUocUo6g1Ksys3twsPoNOiGLwdPtzmim3UZ3AfBp6ZyfAZG-sWctPhqDe2J7VE5t5zMg/s4000/20230410_111159.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXUg8o7jLnHH3FbD4soTTUoBtAGqNEdpHkjAhViQeGuoN2ubwC8gzazB71gNg8GZsxUfKdXikLBN12uGCZHgO3zXh8jadspDQ_3VboDMtPac_SeFPUocUo6g1Ksys3twsPoNOiGLwdPtzmim3UZ3AfBp6ZyfAZG-sWctPhqDe2J7VE5t5zMg/s320/20230410_111159.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><br /><br /><br /> <p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1gQ5KSXzyEeHwYaAqsFAWOnAjqfA6V8tJDZ7cYnHGCYyfTBE3vJF1xO8jeXy_s8paKbhDqj-UtBm4dMX2Hyokb7vuajxchUz2-D6kHRQ7wUO3K2xPo3xbaVi2fsy4lnHdZOQHtcU_IkZSqmxsgydbqXD89m0FFNPJnMVRAoEbXtujww7D4g/s4000/20230410_111206.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1gQ5KSXzyEeHwYaAqsFAWOnAjqfA6V8tJDZ7cYnHGCYyfTBE3vJF1xO8jeXy_s8paKbhDqj-UtBm4dMX2Hyokb7vuajxchUz2-D6kHRQ7wUO3K2xPo3xbaVi2fsy4lnHdZOQHtcU_IkZSqmxsgydbqXD89m0FFNPJnMVRAoEbXtujww7D4g/s320/20230410_111206.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqcFrbRJmbnV1vB5Vb-rYyW8Krrc3cy7PpaAffUaIw-H1Qm_kFtwT-aRLaUj54anh7zV6UaEi9X-6qkf1LIVXx5ZA7bQPPcjjLb9lw8EEartnUc7D7RuqA1sNQTdtt9cMZeP-YNGx2_3t3ao6_9zPLCNkbofNmMYKlqSYB7TN2jLScp1hdBw/s4000/20230410_111306.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqcFrbRJmbnV1vB5Vb-rYyW8Krrc3cy7PpaAffUaIw-H1Qm_kFtwT-aRLaUj54anh7zV6UaEi9X-6qkf1LIVXx5ZA7bQPPcjjLb9lw8EEartnUc7D7RuqA1sNQTdtt9cMZeP-YNGx2_3t3ao6_9zPLCNkbofNmMYKlqSYB7TN2jLScp1hdBw/s320/20230410_111306.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipyCBVUStL8JM2Ps-AFL1QYiIl9x03kx-OjBsxExiogIMl0T0ou_N-9ViUYb6sCwEHIPHUhGOhwT1b9n60SzrGD2C4Tkj2h-8VIG7Ev93BUoOrCFxT4IPetSBrr3bV3jyaf0pTKJScPyv1bJrGR296XjIdYzYfoLa-RlH3Z2_6GDD0RJZBHw/s4000/20230410_111312.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipyCBVUStL8JM2Ps-AFL1QYiIl9x03kx-OjBsxExiogIMl0T0ou_N-9ViUYb6sCwEHIPHUhGOhwT1b9n60SzrGD2C4Tkj2h-8VIG7Ev93BUoOrCFxT4IPetSBrr3bV3jyaf0pTKJScPyv1bJrGR296XjIdYzYfoLa-RlH3Z2_6GDD0RJZBHw/s320/20230410_111312.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p> </p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGsu3itJTSzZQUo-xmwWGh8Oyy7RZLKVWGJXArKdYITKLtEW_UHzjzDPSGGGUKaZYYRNVJi9ogHttoQ-2Nybib_qi7Mu5WmlAr1nXzjjciHWwdwd-GmYa4E9Kk2_f74HEO24FnrBssSCnK5iz95EJkC4N2Sn_mCnX7sDzY6nNl-zKBL1kVmw/s4000/20230410_111317.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGsu3itJTSzZQUo-xmwWGh8Oyy7RZLKVWGJXArKdYITKLtEW_UHzjzDPSGGGUKaZYYRNVJi9ogHttoQ-2Nybib_qi7Mu5WmlAr1nXzjjciHWwdwd-GmYa4E9Kk2_f74HEO24FnrBssSCnK5iz95EJkC4N2Sn_mCnX7sDzY6nNl-zKBL1kVmw/s320/20230410_111317.jpg" width="320" /></a><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Even the humble come to be blessed. <br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_F-Ky3O8FsMyaQv3asOH4iAFFGfxQthFxrprPw748MXBiVAv1xNKUu-BnQOrHD5wpvLtLxrIkmB70BnAt_R9FVfI602yM4Bmv19kz-EKUw2BaKwa0rZeEyT558K6LnrwEvNBjSlqERT_6l12D_f-5YFcVUrsbqMVCziT4phI-F8ZI5zR1JQ/s4000/20230410_111217.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_F-Ky3O8FsMyaQv3asOH4iAFFGfxQthFxrprPw748MXBiVAv1xNKUu-BnQOrHD5wpvLtLxrIkmB70BnAt_R9FVfI602yM4Bmv19kz-EKUw2BaKwa0rZeEyT558K6LnrwEvNBjSlqERT_6l12D_f-5YFcVUrsbqMVCziT4phI-F8ZI5zR1JQ/s320/20230410_111217.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a humble donkey<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p> </p><p>The parade ends up back at the church. The church was built at the end of the 1400s as a Wehrkirche, which means a fortified church.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9MsjseNLl5StpbKl0Ipzw-dNN_CuaD3VjJjw5G_HF0tPH2dF6d4Qy9En6e48bZhKU1rI0OVo9OFOeFjRUOt6bv_ylfkaICGzl5e0YIfGE3mabNNbMz92hNNXUNpWSvjy-zqnH-3Nr22e8QNRq4_ss0Ss3unO7AtAVd0UdgT7y7f-VirJT0g/s4000/20230410_111808.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9MsjseNLl5StpbKl0Ipzw-dNN_CuaD3VjJjw5G_HF0tPH2dF6d4Qy9En6e48bZhKU1rI0OVo9OFOeFjRUOt6bv_ylfkaICGzl5e0YIfGE3mabNNbMz92hNNXUNpWSvjy-zqnH-3Nr22e8QNRq4_ss0Ss3unO7AtAVd0UdgT7y7f-VirJT0g/s320/20230410_111808.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Wehrkirche in Effeltrich<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p> The entrance to the fortress has statues of St. Lawrence and others above the gate.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEgwvC1uLLeJW2i_YWqBKAOTEaApYbyZerk8pmidc8gibQaX86CQJxDxQ43cBa03VtXncSpz5ITdBS47UVmo9ZVmLW1soxjWGhIDq5km2Wu22Rzx-REDUXtSVDqmKTvsHqhecyFQHpH2r-Zeg39ZQVEq-cFTxRZmijWWBJy6MBWKECpLqZFg/s4000/20230410_113739.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEgwvC1uLLeJW2i_YWqBKAOTEaApYbyZerk8pmidc8gibQaX86CQJxDxQ43cBa03VtXncSpz5ITdBS47UVmo9ZVmLW1soxjWGhIDq5km2Wu22Rzx-REDUXtSVDqmKTvsHqhecyFQHpH2r-Zeg39ZQVEq-cFTxRZmijWWBJy6MBWKECpLqZFg/s320/20230410_113739.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">entrance gate on left-hand side of fortress wall<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p><br /></p><p></p><p>The area between the fortress and the church is a graveyard.<br /><br /></p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRw6la3ORuapoyV4Hiv6_WW22FRI6Eslx0fm_T3FQ41e5iqv84OiCMrQc5tmJIPo_8xbgSkmkizT5kCJJHSdthPKBIr4ZoiY7clBhtfA5KZ4JTxyfMaEYbRtFpSF2JUQ0YJ7Em_GfAp0CVxbvo7f2gLCuuoHlsNbEh1FI39542mgde6ngM7A/s4000/20230410_114608.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRw6la3ORuapoyV4Hiv6_WW22FRI6Eslx0fm_T3FQ41e5iqv84OiCMrQc5tmJIPo_8xbgSkmkizT5kCJJHSdthPKBIr4ZoiY7clBhtfA5KZ4JTxyfMaEYbRtFpSF2JUQ0YJ7Em_GfAp0CVxbvo7f2gLCuuoHlsNbEh1FI39542mgde6ngM7A/s320/20230410_114608.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside the fortress wall<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4OM4VOQUmuWVFXndu-5F874yUopeOBvwm7o1rs9qu5j84A2SoSxOL1l4Q_uZ-yQV4nWY66EZ0i-FWbm1z7Xj6B6yJrt0RlFgrwhzCxtKTeq2B4WCD4HlXxb46cLUm7OZF65yBpQCusqyqVw0pogT2qKkjrBnsn8A2Q3EvyU2GN6v1gyursg/s4000/20230410_114147.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4OM4VOQUmuWVFXndu-5F874yUopeOBvwm7o1rs9qu5j84A2SoSxOL1l4Q_uZ-yQV4nWY66EZ0i-FWbm1z7Xj6B6yJrt0RlFgrwhzCxtKTeq2B4WCD4HlXxb46cLUm7OZF65yBpQCusqyqVw0pogT2qKkjrBnsn8A2Q3EvyU2GN6v1gyursg/s320/20230410_114147.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">view of church entrance from entrance gate<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p> Inside the church are the baroque decorations.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipFLH_QgzShSSYz8rqtquyVl2vfPaEPjohLla76XeiFvYPSppPsHCNMl7LI_k07zDBUoUDLuWe89eFLgZeeGYwpfodKo_21ahKq0bxUTc5pF4gXg23u_LD60zUO4fKQT3nxRgfXNlCW06LI2Xpr9qcPXerMAzB7ju7SsF9CyDMXeZHV-kMLw/s3831/20230410_114533.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3831" data-original-width="2873" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipFLH_QgzShSSYz8rqtquyVl2vfPaEPjohLla76XeiFvYPSppPsHCNMl7LI_k07zDBUoUDLuWe89eFLgZeeGYwpfodKo_21ahKq0bxUTc5pF4gXg23u_LD60zUO4fKQT3nxRgfXNlCW06LI2Xpr9qcPXerMAzB7ju7SsF9CyDMXeZHV-kMLw/s320/20230410_114533.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inside the church<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p>Across the street from the church is the "Thousand-Year Linde", a linden tree that is probably about 800 years old.</p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2PGIpK2qNnKanNnTdlsLxQIlFJBT0WklW1hIJgyaj0j2-ijpaTANb58asaMDQUrRfC8nmLG25RZHgMyjBfVb9XCafL6eerbiYiPrzrH3KIOztsYrK1BCrW6dupDMPlNqIhiHGGNS9iRfW74KvejbnehJlaXCqLar0ldWCQAPBTRGL0ng4ow/s4000/20230410_113335.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2PGIpK2qNnKanNnTdlsLxQIlFJBT0WklW1hIJgyaj0j2-ijpaTANb58asaMDQUrRfC8nmLG25RZHgMyjBfVb9XCafL6eerbiYiPrzrH3KIOztsYrK1BCrW6dupDMPlNqIhiHGGNS9iRfW74KvejbnehJlaXCqLar0ldWCQAPBTRGL0ng4ow/s320/20230410_113335.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7-XqwYGgth4SEiN9DGq0hbgkp8iCuGqPfcl146Vfcs0APnJqiZhNXU65IuFrDbRBWLT4M1jUqd1I8K9eiI8rGwHaDbqDgzCQhhN04B_bXL8eL2fuWjqwD3waSc2L9GzgazGyvoA4kz1em0xDQKEtodk9brU18shUbY6lzwvGuc8rxNYd_9w/s4000/20230410_113319.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7-XqwYGgth4SEiN9DGq0hbgkp8iCuGqPfcl146Vfcs0APnJqiZhNXU65IuFrDbRBWLT4M1jUqd1I8K9eiI8rGwHaDbqDgzCQhhN04B_bXL8eL2fuWjqwD3waSc2L9GzgazGyvoA4kz1em0xDQKEtodk9brU18shUbY6lzwvGuc8rxNYd_9w/s320/20230410_113319.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK44sMH5fMiM3ZEwhkyYfCMG3mU8nZkkktHsTkteKxLxPK5kclypUlVu-Xmeg-EG0ytK1sqVtadNpNSgvt2dqC1aowXaLIuDZoySKualokJo9IrtBxblvR1pVckQkK7qfzSLTsO1nJu_Bx9jhwWBlzZGslRSByKPE8l1eo7MHlnSMWlZIJ3g/s4000/20230410_113244.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjK44sMH5fMiM3ZEwhkyYfCMG3mU8nZkkktHsTkteKxLxPK5kclypUlVu-Xmeg-EG0ytK1sqVtadNpNSgvt2dqC1aowXaLIuDZoySKualokJo9IrtBxblvR1pVckQkK7qfzSLTsO1nJu_Bx9jhwWBlzZGslRSByKPE8l1eo7MHlnSMWlZIJ3g/s320/20230410_113244.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1000-year Linde<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>The village used to hold dances in its branches. <br /></p><p>See our previous blogs at <a href="https://cardinaltrees.blogspot.com/2007/04/trewin-news-easter-2007-edition.html" target="_blank">2007</a> (skip down to the heading "Easter Monday Excursion") and <a href="https://cardinaltrees.blogspot.com/2015/04/easter-fountains-and-wells.html" target="_blank">2015</a> (Osterbrunnen: decorated town fountains with evergreen and colored eggs before Easter)</p><br /><p><br /></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> <br /></p><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div></div><br /><br /><br />Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com2Effeltrich, Germany49.6593469 11.094076226.750699019574697 -24.0621738 72.567994780425309 46.2503262tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-29440057838100386712022-10-16T12:42:00.003+02:002022-10-16T12:42:45.858+02:00Richard's birthday trip to Maulbronn<p> This year Kathy arranged a wonderful trip to Maulbronn. It's a small town, with not much to do except see the monastery, but the monastery is a beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site with four museums, and there are cafes to read and relax in. The town started as a settlement surrounding the monastery as it was being built (the monastery was founded in 1147), but the settlement didn't become an official town until 1886. Today it has about 7000 inhabitants. The population grew after World War II, when Germans expelled from other European countries came here.</p><p>I had heard of Maulbronn when I read a book by Hermann Hesse called "Under the Wheel ". It's a semi-autobiographical account of the Nobel Prize winner's youth, when he went to the seminary school there starting in 1891. Hesse lived from 1877 until 1962, and some of his best works, like "Narcissus and Goldmund" and "The Glass Bead Game", make reference to his time in Maulbronn. It was fun to imagine where Hesse got some of his ideas. <br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zCkF3U-6Ji4X_MkJHe0HfwOiR3uKsc0XgTon4UrLCkQ2vMC9l2Vl5c4Cnl8FoBgD5Q8Y5PD7L5EmQ5KFJLZE16CIgl79oEDHsQb0naU2ToRNMIPRHUJsqGzP4HxehUH06BxnsnafJcE8Yrym56-HPAGoy2D2gPED2dnQD4J8dXBt8m5TzA/s600/2-euro-maulbronn-2013.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="600" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zCkF3U-6Ji4X_MkJHe0HfwOiR3uKsc0XgTon4UrLCkQ2vMC9l2Vl5c4Cnl8FoBgD5Q8Y5PD7L5EmQ5KFJLZE16CIgl79oEDHsQb0naU2ToRNMIPRHUJsqGzP4HxehUH06BxnsnafJcE8Yrym56-HPAGoy2D2gPED2dnQD4J8dXBt8m5TzA/w200-h200/2-euro-maulbronn-2013.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two-Euro coin depicting Maulbronn </td></tr></tbody></table><br />. <p></p><p>Then, my friend, Peter, told me that Johannes Kepler also went to school there in 1588. It turns out that a lot of notable people spent time in Maulbronn. While visiting Maulbronn I found out that Georg Herwegh, a writer in the Revolutions of 1848, attended the seminary school from 1831 until 1835. The poet Friederich Hölderlin from Germany's romantic period was 16 years old in 1786 when he started at the seminary school. By 1797 he had published the novel "Hyperion: or the Hermit in Greece". It's another work of Sturm und Drang, like Goethe's <i><a class="mw-redirect" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Die_Leiden_des_jungen_Werthers" title="">Die Leiden des jungen Werthers</a></i>, and Firederich Schiller's <i><a class="mw-redirect" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Die_R%C3%A4uber" title="">Die Räuber</a></i>, which I also liked reading for its combination of love and torment. I guess I'm just a born romantic.<br /></p><p>In 1138, a free knight named Walter von Lomersheim donated an estate at
what is now Mühlacker (where we transferred from the train to a bus on our trip) to
the Cistercian Order for the establishment of a new monastery. The Bishop of Speyer,
was not happy with the productivity of the monastery, so a group of 12
monks searched for a better source of water and pasture space. In 1147,
the bishop moved the monks about 8 kilometers (5 miles) to a new site
near the source of the Salzach river. This site, Mulenbrunnen, was ideal
for the Cistercians, because although it was near the Roman road
running from Speyer to Cannstatt, it was isolated. The abbey church was consecrated in 1178, and construction of the Maulbronn Monastery complex was largely completed by 1200–01 in the Romanesque style.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJfrgvZeegr5yv47hscjyBimzEt7_YvSYJ8XVsjqeFLhN8T1ncBzpMFlIgMFTab75DpTL3y3YWa4G4Q7PfV-EoDqFFovvzKyKLw-kapXr_7YY-LBCSRUxYog9x3lAKCFeQ_1Sjv_zpKd1pskde5WO-kiC3RgNVHrLiVlcmwMvpIZivuybWg/s4000/20221001_160347.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSJfrgvZeegr5yv47hscjyBimzEt7_YvSYJ8XVsjqeFLhN8T1ncBzpMFlIgMFTab75DpTL3y3YWa4G4Q7PfV-EoDqFFovvzKyKLw-kapXr_7YY-LBCSRUxYog9x3lAKCFeQ_1Sjv_zpKd1pskde5WO-kiC3RgNVHrLiVlcmwMvpIZivuybWg/s320/20221001_160347.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Romanesque entrance<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br />When you come into the church inside the monastery, you can still see some of the original 12th century Romanesque work, like the portal and its original doors. </p><p>One of the museums has a painting by Christian Mali of a part of the fortress walls of the monastery.<br /></p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVnbDBka0gQI2O0MrTRe-N9C95S8jqYg-j6I-sNs8utSbxc6nNVgLeNTPZyiQ_RxQIk8uC9gku7qN2ZK1w8yOmdIqwgzHprwujjYW_svS6lWKLb57HgkDo4KXN581AECy296i0cq67x_mBAunTs8zBBOEWJ3mVvzjg3DvSh9hgGXQVls0Lcw/s4000/20221001_142648.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVnbDBka0gQI2O0MrTRe-N9C95S8jqYg-j6I-sNs8utSbxc6nNVgLeNTPZyiQ_RxQIk8uC9gku7qN2ZK1w8yOmdIqwgzHprwujjYW_svS6lWKLb57HgkDo4KXN581AECy296i0cq67x_mBAunTs8zBBOEWJ3mVvzjg3DvSh9hgGXQVls0Lcw/w400-h300/20221001_142648.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faustturm by Christian Mali (1865).<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p>The brightly lit fountain of water matches the
color of the wall attached to the Faustturm. A monk holds the door open
to the dark monastery inside. Two children wait with a mule at the
bottom of the steps. The mule refers to the legend of the founding of
the monastery, when the 12 monks took a mule on a
scouting trip. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0VR7zlSNLP2LrZsARadV0IgqUoIUoAH4lfUAiQjtM4bNS62e60ArvgZHvL8ihr682xq_azglaPE9-6x5k-HzNYjhMNuY7YzISSZMP38boz5vEKajJOnzWTYNNWsV5VlI_0vAqOoAYM_0uARnXNa7XOiyl-Ff4Ck1n-wTNmQOLkOAllvceKw/s4000/20221002_142513.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0VR7zlSNLP2LrZsARadV0IgqUoIUoAH4lfUAiQjtM4bNS62e60ArvgZHvL8ihr682xq_azglaPE9-6x5k-HzNYjhMNuY7YzISSZMP38boz5vEKajJOnzWTYNNWsV5VlI_0vAqOoAYM_0uARnXNa7XOiyl-Ff4Ck1n-wTNmQOLkOAllvceKw/s320/20221002_142513.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />After rejecting several candidates, the mule
finally stopped at a well and refused to go further. The mule in Mali's
painting seems to be of a like mind. The mule and fountain remain to this day the
logo for Maulbronn (from Maultier=mule, and Brunnen=fountain). <p></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXUZFNlpT6Cua9To6ZHi_FYF8krMvOExRI-Z8UtXEauMqDQGQY0K-Z13ZRwROEL_sJDXdeYS6uI7KQqLodcODaYGIlT6fUIyvQnIHl1aHwuZ_fhIzlUtPruaWZQ6Gw80C-NticIQrH0QAXHIX4dpvpYKMmbRVE23lYEXoni1KdX_C5gVYAVg/s4000/20221001_162532.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXUZFNlpT6Cua9To6ZHi_FYF8krMvOExRI-Z8UtXEauMqDQGQY0K-Z13ZRwROEL_sJDXdeYS6uI7KQqLodcODaYGIlT6fUIyvQnIHl1aHwuZ_fhIzlUtPruaWZQ6Gw80C-NticIQrH0QAXHIX4dpvpYKMmbRVE23lYEXoni1KdX_C5gVYAVg/s320/20221001_162532.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br /><p><br /> The Faustturm (Faust tower) is named after Dr. Faustus, who was a
friend of Abbott Johann Entenfuß, stayed there in 1516 in a vain attempt
to produce gold for the abbott's new construction plans. Goethe's
famous story of a man who sold his soul to the devil, "Faust", written
in 1802, is based on Dr. Faustus. Dr. Faustus's search for the
philosopher 's stone, like the search for the holy grail, has fascinated
me since I first read Parzival by Wolfram von Eschenbach decades ago. <br /></p><p> </p><p></p><p>.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx3QSAKf2F8r0q40eVKrA9tm4gKxiYtO0ECAlMXrNFmMAWkku3Lb2Z4sysCb6j-v60nSrELWKNLc3cSmelke4BLENykOcJIgxKrur5Zyenug-qgkkOQRa6pHEdnPTvaIjZXT-gcPUU3PAGl8VpdVX4Jfa93JMbQ4L2WBpdIQ_R4HqyBrKHLQ/s4000/20221001_161944.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx3QSAKf2F8r0q40eVKrA9tm4gKxiYtO0ECAlMXrNFmMAWkku3Lb2Z4sysCb6j-v60nSrELWKNLc3cSmelke4BLENykOcJIgxKrur5Zyenug-qgkkOQRa6pHEdnPTvaIjZXT-gcPUU3PAGl8VpdVX4Jfa93JMbQ4L2WBpdIQ_R4HqyBrKHLQ/s320/20221001_161944.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faustturm</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p>The oldest part of the cloister is the south wall, and so it is Romanesque. </p><p> <br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZes4zZkWI7bZwFRxQ1psJhH_ySdQzShPpDB0CXABcW1jCi0wmMqom2o-XArIbQRvVaRMsa93DcTfYvlgIKJXwhOAzSJgsMehUMWmZoh1-irvZ5_pIeigh1XH259Wacq3P-0UqULy4GA9Q46dXwrPu5eOn8ef_vcaa9KzTerP8LT3NcNhsGg/s4000/20221002_115644.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZes4zZkWI7bZwFRxQ1psJhH_ySdQzShPpDB0CXABcW1jCi0wmMqom2o-XArIbQRvVaRMsa93DcTfYvlgIKJXwhOAzSJgsMehUMWmZoh1-irvZ5_pIeigh1XH259Wacq3P-0UqULy4GA9Q46dXwrPu5eOn8ef_vcaa9KzTerP8LT3NcNhsGg/s320/20221002_115644.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outside of the south cloister</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>This side of the cloister is bordered by the church, which was originally romanesque too. The Romanesque church was consecrated in 1178, after about 30 years of construction.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFH3SDqUkl-mPrbJedcRx2iZFHxYkvxr1EBmVlDe6c0Qp07yjXwvq81YFqkLQK4_DcCuFyXH7UFBkjwfXC6Df0NX1q2rRPcuPK0dsptE6enbtjubvRXTaIuANfoHrF5O0fPZiTH3WgVIy-IbRDMoat0WeDh0kcs2bgsSVNeJuIBvxoL0oadQ/s4000/20221002_115848.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFH3SDqUkl-mPrbJedcRx2iZFHxYkvxr1EBmVlDe6c0Qp07yjXwvq81YFqkLQK4_DcCuFyXH7UFBkjwfXC6Df0NX1q2rRPcuPK0dsptE6enbtjubvRXTaIuANfoHrF5O0fPZiTH3WgVIy-IbRDMoat0WeDh0kcs2bgsSVNeJuIBvxoL0oadQ/s320/20221002_115848.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rood screen separating the eastern end (for the religious) from this, the western end (for lay brothers).</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Here we see the Romanesque arches in the rood screen and above the columns in the eastern end. The Romanesque nave originally had a flat timber beam ceiling, but it
was altered in the 15th century by Abbott Albert von Ötisheim, who added
a Gothic vault and Gothic founder chapels. The rood is a depiction of Christ on the cross, both of which were carved from a single block of stone! It was Erntedankfest Sunday in Germany, and the food donations are collected near the altar, where Kathy is taking a picture. </p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDA2DfdBGa3pxKGpOtNKTsDULO0xbF5TKNxfKbnFoiC-uz8i-rkdNwJOMIEVtAIcKFoCFk8qEl3U4d91rdy0wKr9zQVKkQ9D_Cf3unJh019K9UPXdpP7GAm_Wio-CEqqwOnv9CHszcWqd3KJaWHu7Cn0CyBIMQ8-k2dvqwNC3GUgWTyfNvKQ/s4000/20221002_120501.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDA2DfdBGa3pxKGpOtNKTsDULO0xbF5TKNxfKbnFoiC-uz8i-rkdNwJOMIEVtAIcKFoCFk8qEl3U4d91rdy0wKr9zQVKkQ9D_Cf3unJh019K9UPXdpP7GAm_Wio-CEqqwOnv9CHszcWqd3KJaWHu7Cn0CyBIMQ8-k2dvqwNC3GUgWTyfNvKQ/s320/20221002_120501.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the east end of the church<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p>This photo shows the east end of the church through a door near the rood screen into the choir. The monks made up the choir that sang during the seven Liturgy of Hours of each day. The monks had to stand during singing, and so much standing was difficult for some of the monks. Fortunately, each of their folding chairs had a small wooden structure formed on the underside of the seat. When this so-called misericord, or mercy seat, was folded up, it was intended to act as a shelf to
support the monk in a partially standing position. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr360S1EkLpqrY1Ou9QcX7MpTKvQMNr79z9WJnagebmszbQo8XOAoq7eXhQkUeFZOAs-foXxDbfiP5s7Odro9LX9Ufdp4MVPDnL2TwS66T4wITBIy9Rghf5axp6XBWoOSLXOnM6htFIfjSjhnp2srQgQqtLKiXAHAZoE5XXebVvMB9Dvk8oA/s4000/20221002_121204.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr360S1EkLpqrY1Ou9QcX7MpTKvQMNr79z9WJnagebmszbQo8XOAoq7eXhQkUeFZOAs-foXxDbfiP5s7Odro9LX9Ufdp4MVPDnL2TwS66T4wITBIy9Rghf5axp6XBWoOSLXOnM6htFIfjSjhnp2srQgQqtLKiXAHAZoE5XXebVvMB9Dvk8oA/s320/20221002_121204.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wooden figure on end of a row of monks' seats<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKZUsOhd865OMbIeDYKsYcWtLlOjA3u0tx7sg9QSTm09-XHKV5nEeCghh9q-vyTHVZHOZ_2UozADA0LUUMO69E8fbjFVRDnY8dtEOWVkeYNxi7h_F6l8W1CSXSoLSmAkQvFOMHzr-uqS1XEj0acdWr05ST8zRcJi3dMltcNzptQfo0oF1PVw/s4000/20221002_113427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKZUsOhd865OMbIeDYKsYcWtLlOjA3u0tx7sg9QSTm09-XHKV5nEeCghh9q-vyTHVZHOZ_2UozADA0LUUMO69E8fbjFVRDnY8dtEOWVkeYNxi7h_F6l8W1CSXSoLSmAkQvFOMHzr-uqS1XEj0acdWr05ST8zRcJi3dMltcNzptQfo0oF1PVw/s320/20221002_113427.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Museum on medieval construction<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVtlILywEDhSYnS_wqsgN11M54vHuvY4eN5OG-YQHI8w6f5OdNzM1gVzN5Z7cof4HkYfmwCr0_Q04sBERYJ9FW_GTL2OWUDW3rOINv2-d64VIx65e9qF6vyqzCIuHzQK1xBoXwEuB2h8XVZ-EKp6aPJd7P5sOSWOGB2o74DvEuMvhNX6_Q1Q/s2829/20221002_113554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2829" data-original-width="2685" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVtlILywEDhSYnS_wqsgN11M54vHuvY4eN5OG-YQHI8w6f5OdNzM1gVzN5Z7cof4HkYfmwCr0_Q04sBERYJ9FW_GTL2OWUDW3rOINv2-d64VIx65e9qF6vyqzCIuHzQK1xBoXwEuB2h8XVZ-EKp6aPJd7P5sOSWOGB2o74DvEuMvhNX6_Q1Q/s320/20221002_113554.jpg" width="304" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The many trades involved in building a cloister<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </p><p>On the western side of the cloister is a large vaulted room that has been turned into a museum about the construction of the cloister. There is information on all the various steps and trades involved. Starting in the quarry, stone blocks (called ashlers) were carted by oxen to the construction site. Jib cranes with gripper tongs were used for lifting the ashlers onto the wall. Lay brothers mixed mortar and carried it up the stone walls in transport crates. Carpenters constructed the roof trusses and also scaffolds, ladders, lifts, cranes, treadwheels, and ramps. Masons cut rough stone into shapes for door frames, windows, and vaulting ribs. The sculptors made the decorative pieces, such as tracery, capitals, and pinnacles. (The sculptor was often the master mason.) The blacksmiths manufactured and mend the tools along with forging nails, plates, and iron clamps. It is no wonder that a village grew up around a construction site. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiESN0P8ee-e-k56rjWNg-4pL4FOAUDEG555oqz6gAzT-TsskdRju0u4kgbiTlqAKL3gEJI5eoweOlPmESLJwA5-3tEqRgY_YQIkLDZSjsqi0dTRh_t8F_gYe0KVxKj91fUPfO-lYfaEc3krivIWeMPW1Z3Ilqz3CvNn-o-0TQEEsZakkksww/s2945/20221002_114825%20(2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2945" data-original-width="2706" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiESN0P8ee-e-k56rjWNg-4pL4FOAUDEG555oqz6gAzT-TsskdRju0u4kgbiTlqAKL3gEJI5eoweOlPmESLJwA5-3tEqRgY_YQIkLDZSjsqi0dTRh_t8F_gYe0KVxKj91fUPfO-lYfaEc3krivIWeMPW1Z3Ilqz3CvNn-o-0TQEEsZakkksww/s320/20221002_114825%20(2).jpg" width="294" /></a></div><br />The results of all this labor were impressive. On the north side of the cloister is a fountain room, where the monks used to wash before meals. The fountain was much simpler back then, but the more resent three-tier fountain is a beautiful addition from the romantic period. On the east side is the chapel room, which was the most important place in the monastery after the church. <br /><p></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8rpghmhbg4-0x2x0h77l6JRLcKFh8MNNo-ZLgNBEjyRPef0iPoFLxJ0lyxKTxP56vrGz0fVbyjuIZaDhOOa29XtFj1_1PWCTKFUYNFyPlNUICGA_HWKAX2-kilmk3tXHi9lhn79mX4NTBJnqULUHCWdOyUHQnPG5SsVz7Nq3fzHedDxQCjw/s4000/20221002_115147.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8rpghmhbg4-0x2x0h77l6JRLcKFh8MNNo-ZLgNBEjyRPef0iPoFLxJ0lyxKTxP56vrGz0fVbyjuIZaDhOOa29XtFj1_1PWCTKFUYNFyPlNUICGA_HWKAX2-kilmk3tXHi9lhn79mX4NTBJnqULUHCWdOyUHQnPG5SsVz7Nq3fzHedDxQCjw/s320/20221002_115147.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">fountain room from north side of cloister<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQNvDvgMfiwHlrQEKG4GfLrfCV2tf1ucoa0hXpLqq4MCBsN7okUt1ZFxzTIyJQy6ddKnxWZCKWXEJ1aAIU6VuPfp5Ec1P3zqswhHb7B6L_qU0_8yIbvJBNLir6PS2J4F4Di-4abtS4tg6AWDwCeuvRi5X2_zXjS5vxZRCLFcYER2olcHZDvg/s4000/20221002_122032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQNvDvgMfiwHlrQEKG4GfLrfCV2tf1ucoa0hXpLqq4MCBsN7okUt1ZFxzTIyJQy6ddKnxWZCKWXEJ1aAIU6VuPfp5Ec1P3zqswhHb7B6L_qU0_8yIbvJBNLir6PS2J4F4Di-4abtS4tg6AWDwCeuvRi5X2_zXjS5vxZRCLFcYER2olcHZDvg/s320/20221002_122032.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chapel room on east side of cloister<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwVAUTVOBNbbxWLoB_DIzBEUHlTftmCZc87YQRtO881BJhLFWg5p9ssG21oIY_bGqSb7mqJIJzgJIz4Fr8-yv4i9Ypw_8Mr77bnZez7itiXGrJgpqRrCwsUl7bt2Tu6cW5fWSenQj2bTSRLEjaS_LrHagAC8edRIZfsu7Q6iugsxyf9EmRIA/s3718/20221002_124245%20(3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3718" data-original-width="1900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwVAUTVOBNbbxWLoB_DIzBEUHlTftmCZc87YQRtO881BJhLFWg5p9ssG21oIY_bGqSb7mqJIJzgJIz4Fr8-yv4i9Ypw_8Mr77bnZez7itiXGrJgpqRrCwsUl7bt2Tu6cW5fWSenQj2bTSRLEjaS_LrHagAC8edRIZfsu7Q6iugsxyf9EmRIA/s320/20221002_124245%20(3).jpg" width="164" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Artwork drawn in the ceiling<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimK_vzqw1WOB_qV0eZA7adRwf4ohtAEO0Qu6585GsWT-fmSQQnQ5xCu_8GEDANsUdphl829MfMvNkU5QXs8oy6ytvgUoOdlj3mpHaUDQx1jfhsrgnz6zecPnqE9q3RUD45UCN0tlC89zy6SQL-S6g8BvP84-kE6zGSowoz0RLVeCe7LK6l5A/s4000/20221002_115014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimK_vzqw1WOB_qV0eZA7adRwf4ohtAEO0Qu6585GsWT-fmSQQnQ5xCu_8GEDANsUdphl829MfMvNkU5QXs8oy6ytvgUoOdlj3mpHaUDQx1jfhsrgnz6zecPnqE9q3RUD45UCN0tlC89zy6SQL-S6g8BvP84-kE6zGSowoz0RLVeCe7LK6l5A/s320/20221002_115014.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">west side of cloister<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8fuLuM-kIebR4C9EFPrULJ23IAI8i0mbqdhukyYY8lOYghMQZgu6-jY3_XZJf0ATGSyZL3lub91gGcw75dN_FTFcP0qebZDg2Inj1wQh0csH7Z-_nYq4vQDF1XPBAGnEnBgn1AfA7F5UcAGjEfKQ3qOdvB1ITwhKMXKqypehiy5TiM1x-Q/s4000/20221001_160422.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi8fuLuM-kIebR4C9EFPrULJ23IAI8i0mbqdhukyYY8lOYghMQZgu6-jY3_XZJf0ATGSyZL3lub91gGcw75dN_FTFcP0qebZDg2Inj1wQh0csH7Z-_nYq4vQDF1XPBAGnEnBgn1AfA7F5UcAGjEfKQ3qOdvB1ITwhKMXKqypehiy5TiM1x-Q/s320/20221001_160422.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Narthex, nicknamed Paradise<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><p></p><p> </p><p> <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-38567009522476465612021-11-22T17:19:00.015+01:002021-12-03T14:34:12.534+01:00Peasants Turn Out with Pitchforks and Torches<p>Crowds with pitchforks and torches still turn out to chase out unwanted visitors in small towns near us. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc9Wp3k6qlWhk_S0s5zX7qWoLdZ56dFD9a1baz-0Sg80H39RTtM_6ZejybmlY2ZRV-5-yIMD6u3oMkYYyLE4Y9gfEs1LPi1ImThVmuyTLXanl8PoYvagQPwZ7QvT8MejlF-HqJYg/s1448/rot-harrlach-bi-haberfeldtreiben-20211111-120634_app11_00.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="816" data-original-width="1448" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc9Wp3k6qlWhk_S0s5zX7qWoLdZ56dFD9a1baz-0Sg80H39RTtM_6ZejybmlY2ZRV-5-yIMD6u3oMkYYyLE4Y9gfEs1LPi1ImThVmuyTLXanl8PoYvagQPwZ7QvT8MejlF-HqJYg/w400-h225/rot-harrlach-bi-haberfeldtreiben-20211111-120634_app11_00.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Photo for Nordbayern.de <span face="Montserrat-Light, sans-serif" style="background-color: #323232; color: white; font-size: 16.2px;">© Verena Masopust</span><p style="text-align: left;">For a couple of years now, the nationally owned German Rail company (Deutsche Bahn, DB) has been searching for a suitable site to build a maintenance facility for its high-speed trains (ICE). It has been looking at various sites around the city of Nuremberg. Everywhere they go, the local people protest against the imposition on the local resources and destruction of natural beauty.</p><p style="text-align: left;">Most recently, two representatives of the DB traveled to the town of Harrlach to pitch their ideas for locating the new facility in a chunk of the Bann forest adjacent to the town. Needless to say, the local residents were not crazy about having so much of their forest destroyed. After the DB representatives made their pitch, the residents sent them off, voicing their disagreement by reviving an 18th century farmers' tradition. Much noise was made and, typical for Germany, a rhyming song accompanied the occasion.</p><p style="text-align: left;">A sample of the text (chosen from among the 18 verses) with which the DB representatives were sent off follows. You won't find some of these words in the dictionary, because they are in thick Franconian dialect:</p><blockquote><p style="text-align: left;"><span face="Montserrat-Regular, sans-serif" style="background-color: #ffa400; color: #323232; font-size: 18px;">„Wir san die Harrlacher Haberfeldtreiber, wir stelln uns quer, wir machen immer weiter. Wir san do bei der Nacht, wir san do am Dooch, des merktster, Deutsche Bahn, wir loun net noch!“</span></p></blockquote><blockquote><span face="Montserrat-Regular, sans-serif" style="background-color: #ffa400; color: #323232; font-size: 18px;">„Vom ICE waschns jede Muckn; Bei uns do falln die Brunna truckn.“ </span></blockquote><blockquote><span face="Montserrat-Regular, sans-serif" style="background-color: #ffa400; color: #323232; font-size: 18px;"> „Zehntausend Kloschüsseln, sauber wäi gmolt; Frag amal wer des Abwasser zohlt?“</span></blockquote><blockquote><span style="background-color: #ffa400; color: #323232;"><span face="Montserrat-Regular, sans-serif" style="font-size: 18px;">„Hundert Fragen stellst der Bahn; als Antwort kommt bloß: Raumordnungsverfahrn. (...) Da fällt der Bannwald, Hieb für Hieb; so grün ist der Staatsbetrieb.“ </span> </span></blockquote><p style="text-align: left;"> "The Harrlach Haberfeldtreiber are we, we dig in our heels, resist perpetually.</p><p style="text-align: left;">We're here by night, we're here by day. You see, Deutsche Bahn, we will not cave!</p><p style="text-align: left;">"From the ICE, they wash each fly; all the while our wells run dry.</p><p style="text-align: left;">"Ten-thousand toilet bowls, clean as if new painted. Guess who pays the costs of water tainted?</p><p style="text-align: left;">"The Bahn's only answer to a hundred requests is the "regional planning process" ... So falls the Bann forest, tree by tree. How green can the state's operation be?"</p><p style="text-align: left;">Most German trains run on electricity from lines above the tracks, like street cars do. Even though the Deutsche Bahn prides itself on using "green" sources of electricity to run the trains, this search for a new site is going off the rails. </p><p style="text-align: left;">The event is called a "Haberfeldtreiben" meaning "to drive someone out through the oat field," Haber is local dialect for Hafer=oats. The custom dates to the 1700s, came from upper Bavaria, and provided a way for the peasants to voice their opinions to the nobles. They would gather after dark, chanting while dressed in black with blackened faces or wearing wooden masks representing devils (see our blog about the <a href="https://cardinaltrees.blogspot.com/2013/12/its-just-below-surface.html" target="_blank">Perchtentreiben</a>), carrying torches, cow bells and pitchforks. </p><p style="text-align: left;">So this is a great demonstration of several themes that we have observed in our time here, including the Franks' (pron. "Frahnks" = Franconians') love of trees and the revival of old traditions, some of which draw on ancient pagan rites. The rhyming chant is also typical of how certain occasions are marked. Fans shout chants and sing songs at soccer games, and groups at beer gardens have traditional ditties. Trick-or-treating children sing a song when they come to the door at Halloween asking politely for candy. To express their gratitude, kids are even expected to recite a poem or sing a verse before they open their Christmas presents! And on the feast of Epiphany, the kids dressed as the three "kings" go door-to-door singing a song at each house as they ask for donations to that year's charity. (on the 2014 Christmas/2015 New Year's blog, scroll to the end to see the section about the <a href="https://cardinaltrees.blogspot.com/2015/01/the-christmas-letter-new-years-version.html">Epiphany in Germany</a>)</p><p style="text-align: left;">Unlike the French, who are notorious for going on strike at the drop of a hat, the Franks are notorious for being laconic and it takes a lot to get them angry. On the jubilant end of the spectrum, they are so restrained, they only get publicly crazy and silly on certain occasions such as Fasching (Mardi Gras), which they make into a week-long party season prior to Lent, the yearly Kirchweih (beer festivals), soccer games, New Year's Eve, ... and I can't think of any other occasions!</p><p style="text-align: left;">Here's the link to the original article: <a href="https://www.nordbayern.de/region/roth/do-falln-die-brunna-truckn-wehrhafte-harrlacher-prangern-die-bahn-an-1.11527579" target="_blank">Harrlach residents up in arms,</a><a href="https://www.nordbayern.de/region/roth/do-falln-die-brunna-truckn-wehrhafte-harrlacher-prangern-die-bahn-an-1.11527579" target="_blank"> protest against the Bahn: our wells will run dry</a></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>CardinalKathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16340992027479073521noreply@blogger.com091154 Roth, Germany49.2456337 11.091160720.935399863821154 -24.0650893 77.555867536178852 46.2474107tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-81377578136558691492021-11-01T15:07:00.001+01:002021-11-02T12:48:53.463+01:00Riemenschneider's Last Supper and Rothenburg<p> It was a beautiful fall day on Halloween, so we made a day trip to Rothenburg ob der Tauber.</p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLvOhr3zX5aVnGaRWUbt_YTcG1iyTfzsOFrgOIb9ga028ekqK_gHe5tqFvjdyqkIeaQjzooSVKoPjetE5SH6fK1DcVrzYGLF7trKtCMYQgcewvQhmYukGH5v9GkeBaEbknX33g/s2048/20211031_164726.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLvOhr3zX5aVnGaRWUbt_YTcG1iyTfzsOFrgOIb9ga028ekqK_gHe5tqFvjdyqkIeaQjzooSVKoPjetE5SH6fK1DcVrzYGLF7trKtCMYQgcewvQhmYukGH5v9GkeBaEbknX33g/s320/20211031_164726.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galgentor (Gallows Gate)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />We took the train and walked from the station to one of the city gates. The medieval town is surrounded by a city wall that you can climb and walk around the city on. <br /><p></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJp-L3jkifJx0A1gO5w4Uuro17z0nsbfZJMrPHoAfYykHv_3I6MWnox5_VN4anlIiGb-_U74plerZo0f5mWXbUlSLBPDFp1zDXJF3Hp-L2gHCGyPHjBlAJsQRTlpmRPAHsYcmt/s2048/20211031_164628.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJp-L3jkifJx0A1gO5w4Uuro17z0nsbfZJMrPHoAfYykHv_3I6MWnox5_VN4anlIiGb-_U74plerZo0f5mWXbUlSLBPDFp1zDXJF3Hp-L2gHCGyPHjBlAJsQRTlpmRPAHsYcmt/s320/20211031_164628.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking the city wall<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><p> <br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The city's history goes back to the Hohenstaufen dynasty of the Holy Roman Empire, which included Konrad III, who ruled from 1138 until his death in Bamberg in 1152. Holy Roman Emperors did not collectively have a permanent residence; instead each had a home base. Konrad did not have a home base large enough for someone of his position, so he decided to build one on a hill overlooking the Tauber river.<br /></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgggHqjrhNlhgADN9rHxn31j0vaRiBNXqt5aj6_99EQBkT_XIqEQjg90HYAmTeeeagbYKBW8VTH7f8fo72V1iwbommHFQas5Gcqk7t-GCEI5F_nFn8WKmqywOptB7qJoxSbg20z/s2048/20211031_113910.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgggHqjrhNlhgADN9rHxn31j0vaRiBNXqt5aj6_99EQBkT_XIqEQjg90HYAmTeeeagbYKBW8VTH7f8fo72V1iwbommHFQas5Gcqk7t-GCEI5F_nFn8WKmqywOptB7qJoxSbg20z/s320/20211031_113910.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pilgrimage route<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Konrad built his castle in 1142, and of course a village grew up around it. Konrad built his castle at the crossing of two important pan-European routes. Of the three most important pilgrimage destinations in Christendom (Jerusalem, Rome, and <span>Santiago de Compostela</span>) Rothenburg was along a north-south route to Rome, and also along one of the east-west routes called St. James' Way to Santiago de Compostela, where the tomb of St. James is located. The most important church in Rothenburg is St. Jakobskirche (St. James Church), built next to the north-south route. When the church was enlarged with an addition to its west end, the addition had to bridge over the pilgrimage route, because you know you don't change pilgrimage routes! <br /><p></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWE5xlwUvIb8pyD5SEDdZxC_fXFoeZ2V9Gw_C_7PHpq7dgG2z0YkSIy2XuX-mZch6_q3eE5vSH_nBPoK5lfTMHDN6-dx-dpPOJUYrpGEidAR7xiRBr2W1jkc74cpOzaeXF35oz/s1079/Rothenburg_ob_der_Tauber.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="715" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWE5xlwUvIb8pyD5SEDdZxC_fXFoeZ2V9Gw_C_7PHpq7dgG2z0YkSIy2XuX-mZch6_q3eE5vSH_nBPoK5lfTMHDN6-dx-dpPOJUYrpGEidAR7xiRBr2W1jkc74cpOzaeXF35oz/s320/Rothenburg_ob_der_Tauber.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coat of Arms<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div>Rothenburg obtained official market rights in 1172, which was a big deal
because of the money that could be made. (Have you read Ken Follett's
novel Pillars of the Earth?) Rothenburg gained in importance, and in 1274 the Holy Roman Emperor, Rudolf I, made Rothenburg a Free Imperial City, meaning that it did not belong to one of the Princes, Dukes, Counts or other rulers that made up the empire. Rather, it belonged to the emperor himself. As such, the city also obtained a <span>Reichskammergericht, (Imperial Chamber of Justice)</span>, which is represented by the small building between the two towers in the city's coat of arms. By 1400, Rothenburg was second only to Cologne in size. The first fortress walls surrounding the city enclosed a relatively small area. Part of the original wall was made of a Spital, which was a combination hospital, old-folks home, and hotel for pilgrims. These people were associated with disease, and that is the reason for not letting them stay long inside the city. Monastic orders also put up pilgrims in the monasteries overnight, even though they were inside the city walls, but religious buildings were officially part of the Roman Church and did not fall under the jurisdiction of the city. <br /><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJcyQi_Dfsa3xGGqKcWdAH0ppGBu80dUsJPci9rkZ2ixV6iTBVyK75tWKy64a3q1cn6qzdPQYUfNdQD1rkBwVcKhzpPUQno4vRL6lRZyNgv0Qr51utBd2FigaHvwF6CuricM6A/s2048/20211031_100139.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJcyQi_Dfsa3xGGqKcWdAH0ppGBu80dUsJPci9rkZ2ixV6iTBVyK75tWKy64a3q1cn6qzdPQYUfNdQD1rkBwVcKhzpPUQno4vRL6lRZyNgv0Qr51utBd2FigaHvwF6CuricM6A/s320/20211031_100139.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Röderbogen (Markusturm in background)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>One of the remaining towers from the old inner wall is the Markusturm (Markus tower), shown with its city gate (<span>Röderbogen) in the photo. Another is the Weißer Turm (White tower). </span>You can see some of the many business signs extending from the buildings and hanging over the street. They are very decorative, and original to the medieval situation when people were illiterate. So the signs had to show what business was located in the shops. A tour guide told us that the city fathers knew very well how important the signs were, and so imposed an "air tax" on the signs hanging over the street. The business people were clever, and they put the signs on hinges in order to bring them up against the buildings.<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipmdyDzt3Wp3CQ6XgbSBBvkU1IDqkmcYgvHO_jGrQGM-OUr1nvRtNQ6J3tJ-TZRG6W_KfIV3agVc-N3an_nNOMtDRZ9u_ICL0j6CrFhlrGaC6UiA38J0JQUV6OhI2u7tONFGxp/s2048/20211031_163908.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipmdyDzt3Wp3CQ6XgbSBBvkU1IDqkmcYgvHO_jGrQGM-OUr1nvRtNQ6J3tJ-TZRG6W_KfIV3agVc-N3an_nNOMtDRZ9u_ICL0j6CrFhlrGaC6UiA38J0JQUV6OhI2u7tONFGxp/s320/20211031_163908.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weißer Turm</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqO9j5l94z9WQW7oF_VP73dD3KKzBSi7x9JOMAuf3WCN-ijAkpi3hQLrX8OaLHm4ZVxoqWuzkM6u479-XvRIkbfu-CTnTcUfW19EUmW6a3gP31bKya1tFtyvwhoUs-jEsHdMoG/s2048/20211031_101901.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqO9j5l94z9WQW7oF_VP73dD3KKzBSi7x9JOMAuf3WCN-ijAkpi3hQLrX8OaLHm4ZVxoqWuzkM6u479-XvRIkbfu-CTnTcUfW19EUmW6a3gP31bKya1tFtyvwhoUs-jEsHdMoG/s320/20211031_101901.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High Altar in the chancel of the church<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>Inside the first town wall is the Jakobskirche, mentioned earlier. The current church was started by the Teutonic Order of Knights in 1298. Only the chancel (the part occupied by the priest and monks) was built in the first of three stages. It was butted up against an older Romanesque church, and when the chancel was complete in 1322, the Romanesque church was torn down. </p><p>The chancel contains a stone altar piece with an early depiction of the trinity as the Father, the Son, and a dove as the Holy Spirit all together. The beautiful colors must be older than 1544, because after the Reformation came to Rothenburg at the end of the Peasants' War, the church became protestant, and colored statues did not adhere to Martin Luther's ideas. One reference I read said that <a href="https://www.bigboytravel.com/germany/rothenburg/free-walking-tour/" target="_blank">Friederich Herlin</a>, the same person who made the altar, also painted the older stone altar. <br /></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7mSxSEVWs1Ma3t8JqPlzqarsnfAF67tGG_zbTurtxNc_bx3uJtp7yWTVGQA1V-XqLKtMpxpX_jlq4BuE0U1OUfEVTn6k0mQK9rirkljCS_0NwL7fv1QmGAgigOqwav2Mqhgkx/s2048/20211031_110708.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7mSxSEVWs1Ma3t8JqPlzqarsnfAF67tGG_zbTurtxNc_bx3uJtp7yWTVGQA1V-XqLKtMpxpX_jlq4BuE0U1OUfEVTn6k0mQK9rirkljCS_0NwL7fv1QmGAgigOqwav2Mqhgkx/s320/20211031_110708.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early depiction of the trinity<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Behind the high altar are scenes painted on the wood. There are several scenes of St. James, and in particular of the transport of his dead body to the church in <span>Santiago de Compostela. The painter of the scenes had never been there, so he used Rothenburg instead. The result is the first depiction of Rothenburg's market square and city hall and the first aerial view of a city to be achieved in southern Germany. </span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn5NyTXuHbCVv0NHATWI4Ge2xkvCYLSPRBUIIqrc4JA8eePNtM877T7xYQpBNOad98xSi8MqI6A_up9rMNUXWdA2VNhsc6xfrlCtSd0KrqQARhc0GN0LbpstB7LkiLUMgScf86/s2048/20211031_110343+%25283%2529.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1922" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn5NyTXuHbCVv0NHATWI4Ge2xkvCYLSPRBUIIqrc4JA8eePNtM877T7xYQpBNOad98xSi8MqI6A_up9rMNUXWdA2VNhsc6xfrlCtSd0KrqQARhc0GN0LbpstB7LkiLUMgScf86/s320/20211031_110343+%25283%2529.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rothenburg's market square above<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span><br /><br /></span><p></p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZn9LYFjan2IhCPImWUCgvqOihBrb1vDYtdgKMjRh_RqzWiqhEONWnkQe9KaMEk7tR1uW-gN247SyMiixJpWVEZQ7TWmjW8dz_2eQFCTlEx_Rp5GIaYCslKlRJsQ3TfskK60TT/s2048/20211031_105843.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZn9LYFjan2IhCPImWUCgvqOihBrb1vDYtdgKMjRh_RqzWiqhEONWnkQe9KaMEk7tR1uW-gN247SyMiixJpWVEZQ7TWmjW8dz_2eQFCTlEx_Rp5GIaYCslKlRJsQ3TfskK60TT/s320/20211031_105843.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nave of St.Jakobskirche<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p> <br /></p><p> </p><p>The second part of the church was then constructed from 1372 until 1436: the part of the nave extending almost to the organ. Construction had to
stop there, because the pilgrimage route was just outside. The third
part of the church was constructed from 1453 until 1471, and it is the
part that contains the organ and that bridges the pilgrimage route. It
is also the part that contains Tilman Riemenschneider's Holy Blood Altar. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSSaer6ys-nE_feH0IgWvCUszioCRaOrQ3GxWH3Mu3ySQyqWko3snRecHQ1pgMnODJMrWoCmyQvSrx_sGT-M1918rz-S_TsSVhohqovteFS8JeYkxsAXR9MoKtv-lIJWDuzCUa/s2048/20211031_102418+%25282%2529.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSSaer6ys-nE_feH0IgWvCUszioCRaOrQ3GxWH3Mu3ySQyqWko3snRecHQ1pgMnODJMrWoCmyQvSrx_sGT-M1918rz-S_TsSVhohqovteFS8JeYkxsAXR9MoKtv-lIJWDuzCUa/s320/20211031_102418+%25282%2529.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p><br />Riemenschneider carved the scenes in the altar from 1501 until 1504, and the main scene depicts the last supper. This is in keeping with the reliquary, which contains a piece of cloth with three drops of consecrated wine (hence, the blood of Christ). The reliquary is a piece of rock crystal mounted at the center of the crucifix.</p><p>The depiction of the last supper is unusual, because it depicts Judas in the center rather than Jesus, who is slightly to the left and higher. Judas is depicted with a back of money in his left hand. Notice that next to the bag is the face of the apostle John, who has collapsed onto Jesus's lap in distress.<br /></p><p> </p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmOh1kjgFRL_z2ynvTxb7JvY5hjcEzIfoL5v9Papptcw29M61dEgKCzG53uLPBv_2c6vpCluUnPMAP-AZzt0tuRn8Gvt-Wpd_K0ppuTWqF0SlHM_rldnlYDFL6-wTvEKwIKbtp/s2048/20211031_102556.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmOh1kjgFRL_z2ynvTxb7JvY5hjcEzIfoL5v9Papptcw29M61dEgKCzG53uLPBv_2c6vpCluUnPMAP-AZzt0tuRn8Gvt-Wpd_K0ppuTWqF0SlHM_rldnlYDFL6-wTvEKwIKbtp/s320/20211031_102556.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Holy blood reliquary<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><p></p><p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZHijJkyXXQLod6oa0w3hQma3CQvxT_m0v19StOgPj8OeK5diCSCJKJDFW6MzG0HbrMqw9sBsWSROEIf0oalkdrZ_hvYteMqMmcqmWkDMZ45ZtBqdLL89vpJlJUiZgVpuUk7JX/s2048/20211031_112732.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZHijJkyXXQLod6oa0w3hQma3CQvxT_m0v19StOgPj8OeK5diCSCJKJDFW6MzG0HbrMqw9sBsWSROEIf0oalkdrZ_hvYteMqMmcqmWkDMZ45ZtBqdLL89vpJlJUiZgVpuUk7JX/s320/20211031_112732.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last supper by Riemenschneider<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p>We had a wonderful day in Rothenburg, and we sat outdoors for a meal of venison cubes in a dark wine gravy with spaetzle and batter-fried carp, two traditional Frankonian dishes. The restaurant's outdoor seating was on the site of the former cemetery of St. Jakobskirche, and the former chapel building is still next door.<br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkWN8rdl7aZ8kmPW_zX-6hUzsG0V_CCMtrxwnYLkMLpTmfzfbuV9OMF0-lx18ghXtb3V2GqlE83Dy4tEYwlisa-5-3fQAZXH_qI1rvb-lu_MDABBRWfqBOHmFXGDCrXWEHPELy/s2048/20211031_115739.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkWN8rdl7aZ8kmPW_zX-6hUzsG0V_CCMtrxwnYLkMLpTmfzfbuV9OMF0-lx18ghXtb3V2GqlE83Dy4tEYwlisa-5-3fQAZXH_qI1rvb-lu_MDABBRWfqBOHmFXGDCrXWEHPELy/s320/20211031_115739.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">former cemetery chapel<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The reason Rothenburg is so well preserved is that its significance waned after the destruction suffered from the Thirty Years' War (1618 to 1648) that left 2/3 of its inhabitants dead. The city never recovered from this era. The medieval architecture remained frozen in time. That anything at all survived the war is, according to folklore, due to the mayor Georg Nusch (<em>Nu-sh</em>). In 1631, the troops of
Catholic General Tilly with his army of 40,000 troops laid siege to the protestant town. The town was therefore threatened with starvation, and so the town sent out women and children to plead for the town, but the General was not deterred. Finally, the mayor made a wager with the general. The mayor claimed to be able to drink over 3 liters of Franconian wine in one gulp, known as the Meistertrunk (Master Draught). A recreation can be seen every day in the glockenspiel next to the city hall at noon, and also every year the Meistertrunk is reenacted during the town festival. </p><p>What survived until the 1940s was seen even by the Germans as the ideal German town and for the Nazis it came to represent the ideal German home town. So it was occupied by German forces when the Allies bombed it on March 31, 1945. Because the U.S. Assistant secretary of war, John McCloy, was told of the town's beauty by his mother, he ordered that no artillery be used when the Americans took the town. Luckily, the American forces were able to convince the Germans to surrender without a fight (contrary to Hitler's orders), and the town was spared further damage. </p><p>However, 40% of the town's buildings had already been damaged, mostly on the city's east side. To retain its charm, the damaged buildings were rebuilt in a style as close to the original medieval style as possible. McCloy was later made an honorary citizen.</p><p>Besides the charming lanes and streets and towers and houses in the old town, one of the most famous attractions is the Christmas museum associated with the Wohlfahrt family. Their famous store is called Käthe Wohlfahrt; open year round, it offers Christmas ornaments made in Germany and it is so crowded with tourists that in the store itself, visitors are guided through the store on one-way only paths. But you don't have to go to Rothenburg to see a Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas store. There's one in Nuremberg, a 20 minute train ride away from us. </p><p>Another attraction is the "Criminal Museum", which includes shudder-inducing authentic examples of common medieval torture devices, all instruments of what passed for justice in those years. Kathy remembers how disturbing her first visit to this museum was, and does not want to go back there. However, the museum has since added exhibits about how justice was perceived in the middle ages up through today, and there is information about the witch persecutions of the 1600s and 1700s. </p><p>Today, Rothenburg is indeed charming. It is well worth visiting in the off-season, when busloads of tourists from all over the world no longer throng the streets.</p></div>Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com091541 Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany49.3801834 10.186738821.069949563821154 -24.9695112 77.690417236178845 45.3429888tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-78316816321805187132021-10-25T11:04:00.004+02:002021-10-25T11:58:10.877+02:00A good summer for beer gardens<div class="separator"><p style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">With the pandemic starting to ease up a little bit, we were able to
visit some beer gardens this summer. They were ideal for being outside
(indoor restaurants were still closed) and being in a social setting
again.</p><p style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvQaf0_png-acPryyHqnfkuZppi0j5-9GAjrjkqu5zZkd2_R64A3i6yt972CIERs_0DluMIP5gHHRljJJQxk94wTdR-WJP7hU4e73-w9aVsPJAcAEePdt09_s4gKY0AT5x6mxF/s2048/20210731_104940.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvQaf0_png-acPryyHqnfkuZppi0j5-9GAjrjkqu5zZkd2_R64A3i6yt972CIERs_0DluMIP5gHHRljJJQxk94wTdR-WJP7hU4e73-w9aVsPJAcAEePdt09_s4gKY0AT5x6mxF/s320/20210731_104940.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beer garden in Abensberg<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> At the end of July we were in Abensberg, just 20 miles upstream of Regensburg on a tributary of the Danube, where
the Kuchlbauer brewery is. The brewery has a biergarten with a special
attraction: a tower designed by the artist and environmentalist
<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friedensreich_Hundertwasser" target="_blank">Friedensreich Hundertwasser</a> (1928-2000, he changed his name from Friedrich Stowasser to "peaceful kingdom hundred waters"). Those of you who have been with us in Vienna will remember the Hundertwasser House and museum in Vienna, where we saw Hundertwasser's art and saw an example of a apartment building where people could live the way he thought people should (closer to nature). He was obsessed with nature and organic forms. He thought a straight line was the devil's work, and he thought trees should have the right to live in the apartments too. </div><div class="separator"> </div><div class="separator"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnVf69nROvHh5j-WWiboqVCu6-8mL1BlMY4CcRr6AxHNOb_NWi9gpufbMbUr4WCltbpoYBGJzErNY7p4s3XhUzwFvaHjLQ56OeIrehpQNT9_-BMwmg8h6a_rQSMeZj5sWhJt1/s2048/20210731_104808.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnVf69nROvHh5j-WWiboqVCu6-8mL1BlMY4CcRr6AxHNOb_NWi9gpufbMbUr4WCltbpoYBGJzErNY7p4s3XhUzwFvaHjLQ56OeIrehpQNT9_-BMwmg8h6a_rQSMeZj5sWhJt1/s320/20210731_104808.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hundertwasser's tower<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>You see this sentiment in his tower in the biergarten in Abensberg. There are trees growing out of the windows, and there is a large variety of materials in the construction: some painted surfaces, some tiles, some mirrored pieces, and so on. <br /><p></p></div><br /><div class="separator"><br /><p></p></div><div class="separator"></div><div class="separator"><p> <br /></p></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiK3wcTa_wA311SqcHYYbdKBJPBbjdamgsZnPPExkIaEs2tMpECVT6fWiEvNmJwc4XVCxpOOoKLhXvpzRLEcInDAZ-p5DQVycmJy75NnmBpLNH0wSiW3qh2v-Uf9rJHn3z6mOC/s2048/20210731_104127.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiK3wcTa_wA311SqcHYYbdKBJPBbjdamgsZnPPExkIaEs2tMpECVT6fWiEvNmJwc4XVCxpOOoKLhXvpzRLEcInDAZ-p5DQVycmJy75NnmBpLNH0wSiW3qh2v-Uf9rJHn3z6mOC/s2048/20210731_104127.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu_qVsPP9oaN44WKzkFuJ7T_a6Oo1lZqT0q7owjzW5n28oR5IIYYAIRO6YjV4eJ9JNepdmR3PzBSWKIRUAUZ6d6dq9nQiLtptf5vjZa-nBYmOfTFsVciT1sykWhEyxt7YpZJ2H/s2048/20210731_104226.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu_qVsPP9oaN44WKzkFuJ7T_a6Oo1lZqT0q7owjzW5n28oR5IIYYAIRO6YjV4eJ9JNepdmR3PzBSWKIRUAUZ6d6dq9nQiLtptf5vjZa-nBYmOfTFsVciT1sykWhEyxt7YpZJ2H/s320/20210731_104226.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">visitor's center<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /><br />Next door to the brewery is a visitor's center, which is also designed
like a Hundertwasser building. The exhibit has some of Hundertwasser's
art and sketches, but I was impressed by the amount of information on
his environmental viewpoints. </p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio6XDR2Ry1f-g4bQOPf07kQsKAGaRL5mQF9EabbBzfd27CJTUsGMdl-_bESIHm05uTCT5LWx52bcxBLCrjpqsb9J0tFcRzOvT_f8vsCPxP2Zgz_Ke9kfmvasPbk0ceRML_TbfC/s2048/20210731_121601.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio6XDR2Ry1f-g4bQOPf07kQsKAGaRL5mQF9EabbBzfd27CJTUsGMdl-_bESIHm05uTCT5LWx52bcxBLCrjpqsb9J0tFcRzOvT_f8vsCPxP2Zgz_Ke9kfmvasPbk0ceRML_TbfC/s320/20210731_121601.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">humus toilet<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>He was a proponent of humus toilets, which require no water. An example of one was staged inside the left-hand door in the photo. </p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwOX5pf-mijg0-x8JR2Iy4yCQI6KA1Hh2TD9GNVW83r73bzC1G-mq-RGaGmzndqyDLWfoL0hk-p697NP3YpoEa2wM5RwbCohLNh4XzrxrDklQGtJy_NT43mLFvrbPFv-PV5fBs/s2048/20210731_132602.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwOX5pf-mijg0-x8JR2Iy4yCQI6KA1Hh2TD9GNVW83r73bzC1G-mq-RGaGmzndqyDLWfoL0hk-p697NP3YpoEa2wM5RwbCohLNh4XzrxrDklQGtJy_NT43mLFvrbPFv-PV5fBs/s320/20210731_132602.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">visitor's center<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>We watched a contemplative movie of Hundertwasser's life and travels, including his appearance on an Austrian TV show that showcased models of his buildings for living in harmony with the environment.</p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Did I mention the beer is great too?</p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRn2-bJo0t6jKS03pqUXv10SmtefkEEmAixTfz6_HURcGMlgjjpay-597lzapYjEbNWTihev6pxvQ5rZhGSIpr16h0c6pb3LWpazlqCZdqH0HWYqOHohBfLL9l1AMuC-VXm3oM/s2048/20210731_110310.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRn2-bJo0t6jKS03pqUXv10SmtefkEEmAixTfz6_HURcGMlgjjpay-597lzapYjEbNWTihev6pxvQ5rZhGSIpr16h0c6pb3LWpazlqCZdqH0HWYqOHohBfLL9l1AMuC-VXm3oM/s320/20210731_110310.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weissbier at the Kuchlbauer brewery<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>On July 18th we went to Ebermannstadt, which is on the edge of the Fraenkische Schweiz near Forchheim and only 45 minutes away by train. We had been to Ebermannstadt before, but we had never </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjofan8XRHJOpp7nMUZdvmXHSfdMxjwby4xz-m73d5PjP5p9g6D7iSdiUJNG5JJq7Pq1x7fY29hx6J4XR686LdTT1NTQ6jVS_YmW-midcCrX3K6sgITSftr8EgTQaVrJx6-bLY3/s2048/20210718_141111.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjofan8XRHJOpp7nMUZdvmXHSfdMxjwby4xz-m73d5PjP5p9g6D7iSdiUJNG5JJq7Pq1x7fY29hx6J4XR686LdTT1NTQ6jVS_YmW-midcCrX3K6sgITSftr8EgTQaVrJx6-bLY3/s320/20210718_141111.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ebermannstadt biergarten<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />visited the beer garden. It is very relaxing, on the bank of the small Wiesent river. The beer garden has great beer, too. <p></p><p>The Wiesent runs through town, and at one point there is a charming water wheel. The wheel has buckets on it that bring water up out of the river and tip into a trough. The trough then leads away into the town.<br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbE-vMQqqXOA-7E97QpPrbKEI9PGSZPKLE1wZ1XjN44-BoVXzTXdDgSQCfXJ8Gi8TMqy6O0SUThjaEzmH_pVW9SiE8M4N9oYpLicPBYGCQ4uwRwOYnzbqFoGK_7x_tOIicqpdR/s2048/20210718_133902.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbE-vMQqqXOA-7E97QpPrbKEI9PGSZPKLE1wZ1XjN44-BoVXzTXdDgSQCfXJ8Gi8TMqy6O0SUThjaEzmH_pVW9SiE8M4N9oYpLicPBYGCQ4uwRwOYnzbqFoGK_7x_tOIicqpdR/s320/20210718_133902.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">water wheel with buckets and trough<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p>Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com093326 Abensberg, Germany48.8177181 11.850786720.507484263821155 -23.3054633 77.127951936178846 47.0070367tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-90720903896244319672021-10-16T13:31:00.219+02:002021-10-23T18:35:22.576+02:00Richard's birthday trip to Merseburg <p>I had a great birthday again this year. Kathy organized a long weekend in Halle, Merseburg, and Querfurt. We had an excellent dinner in Halle at the <a href="https://www.alchimistenklause.de/">Alchimistenklause</a> on Friday, visited the cathedral in Merseburg and the castle in Querfurt on Saturday, saw the Sky Disk of Nebra in Halle on Sunday, and toured the chocolate factory there on Monday. <br /></p><p>The
<a href="https://www.merseburg.de/de/zaubersprueche_merseburg/antrag-zur-aufnahme-der-merseburger-zaubersprueche-in-das-weltdokumentenerbe.html" target="_blank">Merseburger Zaubersprüche</a>
(magical incantations of Merseburg) were written down by a monk in old high German more than a thousand years ago (in the tenth century). In 1842 a theologian found them in the cathedral library in Merseburg and made them known to the Brothers Grimm, who then made the incantations famous. There are two incantations. One serves to free a captive, and the second heals a horse's leg. The first one follows.<br /></p><p>Once sat women,<br />
They sat here, then there.<br />
Some fastened bonds,<br />
Some impeded an army,<br />
Some unraveled fetters::<br />
<br />
<i>Escape the bonds,<br />
flee the enemy! </i><br /></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDSFZPJY5fM-WStMCgGjPUvb5uLWAZunR2HachyphenhyphenoGybdahJiE_o55y57dvpnuqLIq_YgUoCsm9kJOhh6uReTGZeu8de8cu6XneqO-jg0y8NlgGN2KQOBOBg-R6jbiC_E1SwGFR/s2048/20211002_094917.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1402" data-original-width="2048" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDSFZPJY5fM-WStMCgGjPUvb5uLWAZunR2HachyphenhyphenoGybdahJiE_o55y57dvpnuqLIq_YgUoCsm9kJOhh6uReTGZeu8de8cu6XneqO-jg0y8NlgGN2KQOBOBg-R6jbiC_E1SwGFR/s320/20211002_094917.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Book with Zaubersprüche<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>The second incantation follows.<p></p><p>Phol and Wodan were riding to the woods,<br />
and the foot of Balder's foal was sprained<br />
So Sinthgunt, Sunna's sister, conjured it;<br />
and Frija, Volla's sister, conjured it;<br />
and Wodan conjured it, as well he could:</p><p><i>Like bone-sprain, so blood-sprain,<br />
so joint-sprain:<br />
Bone to bone, blood to blood,<br />
joints to joints, so may they be glued </i><br /></p><p><br />The document is the only text in old high German where the pagan Germanic gods appear (Wodan, Balder, Friia, Volla, Sunna, Phol, Sinhtgunt). The names have there equivalents in the North Germanic paganism that we are familiar with from Norse mythology. But the Eddas of Snorri Sturluson are several centuries newer. The advantage of the Norse version is that Snorri documented it so well, so we are much more familiar with Odin, Baldr, Frigg, Fulla, Sunna, and so on. <br /></p><p>If I understood the tour guide correctly, the reason for the rarity of such text is that the alphabet wasn't established until Charles the Great (Charlemagne) had a writing system made for his native language, either <a href="https://www.cs.mcgill.ca/~rwest/wikispeedia/wpcd/wp/c/Charlemagne.htm" target="_blank">old Frankish or old high German or old low Frankonian</a>. (Charles started a <a href="https://sourcebooks.fordham.edu/basis/einhard.asp">Grammar</a>, but it has unfortunately been lost.) Around the same time he was also leading a campaign to convert the pagans to Christianity. So fewer of the nobility in Germany were pagans shortly after the book was written. <br /></p><p>The book was written by a cleric from the abbey in Fulda, so it is primarily a religious text written in Latin. The bottom third of the page with the incantations (the top two-thirds have the incantations) has a short prayer in Latin. Elsewhere in the book is the baptismal oath (in Latin), which includes the pledge to reject the devil and also "Thunaer ende Woden" (Thor and Wodan). So why include the Zaubersprüche at all? Maybe by writing them in the language of the pagans and not Latin, the Zaubersprüche are being denigrated. Maybe their inclusion is a recognition that healers should use whatever works. </p><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQl02hBzB1C18mQvtzy_e9HO3hxDmEQKzAQIui-vJwA5yN9fpwV81ZmrwGGkYVG7mqPc8gT9U9mSQrJO-T3djenwaML1Dp9jl2sJuy_hz7ju5PCBPdRxQsAhSNxa7GGmuWYvG7/s2048/20211002_093248.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1232" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQl02hBzB1C18mQvtzy_e9HO3hxDmEQKzAQIui-vJwA5yN9fpwV81ZmrwGGkYVG7mqPc8gT9U9mSQrJO-T3djenwaML1Dp9jl2sJuy_hz7ju5PCBPdRxQsAhSNxa7GGmuWYvG7/s320/20211002_093248.jpg" width="193" /></a></div><p>After the tour of the Library we went into the cathedral itself. There
was a festival for the 1000-year anniversary of the consecration of the
church. Holy Roman Emperor <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Henry_II,_Holy_Roman_Emperor" target="_blank">Heinrich II</a>
and his empress Kunigunde were present for the consecration. This has
some interest for us because the same Heinrich established the diocese
in Bamberg, just 45 minutes north of us. They were responsible for
putting Bamberg on the map, and both were canonized, in 1147 and 1200,
respectively. Their tomb in the cathedral in Bamberg was created in
1513 by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilman_Riemenschneider" title="Tilman Riemenschneider">Tilman Riemenschneider</a>, is a gothic masterpiece. <br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmif_SrkSPvASau2P32cKu57ZwJHxsY_CuyhpFZSILnbyJ-m3Sfs6GLGpbWx2SzW8Jr5KcicrbIHtLfTuU2nj4KyUNOTVap3W-uwnngtDS2Rm8YRZUo8SL_w5bf2eDLtIq2Z1/s2048/20211016_134416.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1665" data-original-width="2048" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpmif_SrkSPvASau2P32cKu57ZwJHxsY_CuyhpFZSILnbyJ-m3Sfs6GLGpbWx2SzW8Jr5KcicrbIHtLfTuU2nj4KyUNOTVap3W-uwnngtDS2Rm8YRZUo8SL_w5bf2eDLtIq2Z1/s320/20211016_134416.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kunigunde and Heinrich II<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>There was a special exhibit in Halle on the Sky Disk of Nebra, and it was another highlight of the trip. We wrote about the Sky Disk a couple of years ago when we traveled to see the wood henge and ark of the sky disk at <a href="https://cardinaltrees.blogspot.com/2019/05/goseck-and-nebra.html" target="_blank">Goseck and Nebra</a>, respectively. The museum near Nebra dedicated only to the the Sky Disk is called the "ark". It has a planetarium, and there is a fantastic presentation on how the Sky Disk was used for predicting leap year and the seasons. Nebra is about 10 miles south of Querfurt.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyBZWNV2UeSw54x8-SkzVwgMnW7ZYDyhf2yf8SBPpvSA6ZGnQsnTs7IUSyASyTRIWHxG39LB120CKA4zCiZRfIJBfRVGxRe5OwjgjwnOQG2aSNmUoN2N0qq14F25vwr5HeeAN/s2048/20211004_054414.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyBZWNV2UeSw54x8-SkzVwgMnW7ZYDyhf2yf8SBPpvSA6ZGnQsnTs7IUSyASyTRIWHxG39LB120CKA4zCiZRfIJBfRVGxRe5OwjgjwnOQG2aSNmUoN2N0qq14F25vwr5HeeAN/s320/20211004_054414.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sky Disk and other objects in the hoard<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> The home of the Sky Disk is the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halle_State_Museum_of_Prehistory" title="Halle State Museum of Prehistory">State Museum of Prehistory</a> in Halle. It has resources far beyond what the small but excellent museum in Nebra has. They were successful in getting the <a href="http://www.unesco.org/new/en/communication-and-information/memory-of-the-world/register/full-list-of-registered-heritage/registered-heritage-page-6/nebra-sky-disc/" target="_blank">Nebra Sky Disk</a> added to the UNESCO Memory of the World Register in 2013. The museum in Halle was also able to put together a special exhibit together with the British Museum on the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unetice_culture" target="_blank">Aunjetitz </a>culture that produced the Sky Disk 3700 year ago. We learned about the expansive trade routes that brought tin and gold from England and copper from Austria. We also learned about the advanced farming techniques that enabled the people to produce enough flour to feed thousands of people every day, including a large army. The grinding stones were huge, and required two people to work the upper stone.<br /><p></p><p></p><p> </p><p> </p><p>There was also information on the burial rites of the leaders. Just a few kilometers southeast of Halle in Bornhöck was the largest funerary monument of the central European Early Bronze Age (1800 b.c.), a large mound white-washed with limestone. Grave robbers plundered it and the soil was removed between 1844 and 1890 a.d., but a lot of information can be obtained from the remains. It was similar to burial mounds in Leubingen and Helmsdorf, where huge treasures have been discovered. Rather than bury corpses on their sides as for average people, the corpses of rulers were buried face-up (to look into the sky?) The social rank of the person was indicated by the amount of gold jewelry and the number of bronze weapons (such as those found with the Sky Disk) buried in the mound.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxrtBDbn1bBicGk_DYwq7s1yPyr5kcKb-E9GvMs8fJWHQKgyPs-Ehvhb_F-rwdjASD0xYWyScMwGdCsMb6VO3c63LxXpyt_X7YPgpcVpViQDE6UNeOO56KpfeE3n0xTZdbHKt/s2048/20211002_142925.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyxrtBDbn1bBicGk_DYwq7s1yPyr5kcKb-E9GvMs8fJWHQKgyPs-Ehvhb_F-rwdjASD0xYWyScMwGdCsMb6VO3c63LxXpyt_X7YPgpcVpViQDE6UNeOO56KpfeE3n0xTZdbHKt/s320/20211002_142925.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />Not far from Merseburg is Querfurt, a small city with a beautiful castle. The castle was under siege by renovators while we were there, but the museum was open. The age of the castle is unknown, but it was mentioned in the tithe records of the Hersfeld monastery in 866. The chapel was added in 1004, and the Romanesque version we see today was built in 1162. The tomb of ruler of Querfurt during the 1300s, Gebhard XIV von Querfurt, is inside the church. Gebhard was a knight in the second Italian campaign of Holy Roman Emperor Karl IV (Charles the Fourth of Prague fame), and so Gebhard's son was made Archbishop of Magdeburg. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaY-6Ag-lHeLGg8O95EfU9d_uf4f7eYLAhK4EgGlNlyodiuBgegLmtq3bkmfRDc01A2LlvJghAax5G83T4LilLDTQbW0fJ98rF-vItADtesjFqDPfHvTB_Emxo9ZGOjDF5qgDT/s2048/20211002_145318.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaY-6Ag-lHeLGg8O95EfU9d_uf4f7eYLAhK4EgGlNlyodiuBgegLmtq3bkmfRDc01A2LlvJghAax5G83T4LilLDTQbW0fJ98rF-vItADtesjFqDPfHvTB_Emxo9ZGOjDF5qgDT/s320/20211002_145318.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p></p><p></p><p><br /></p><br />We ate well in Halle too. We stopped at a place called the Alchimistenklause, which means the Alchemists' hermitage. It has been in business since 1873 in an old building with lots of charm. We started with drinks. Kathy had Lavendelsekt with Limettenkaviar (Riesling champagne with lavender oil and candied lime) You can see the small pieces of lime in the photo of the champagne glass (most are on the bottom, but some keep floating to the top). I had apple beer. Both were great. For the main course Kathy had baked cheese and wine biscuits and sliced beef carpaccio with herbs and flowers, and I had pork loin with air-dried ham. <br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmqXVikak0ePy-zaFNxItG-WIc_ff_iK5Yvs6wV3gMj3VIjAK7_UClsl4yoKSgDoRMLCWIyHitK6VHouwkU5VMd3tYGJdWDjuEoXWmwKS_7nfWSy5J4Cu3_lXiz5FLfSCEUnfE/s2048/20211001_195651.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmqXVikak0ePy-zaFNxItG-WIc_ff_iK5Yvs6wV3gMj3VIjAK7_UClsl4yoKSgDoRMLCWIyHitK6VHouwkU5VMd3tYGJdWDjuEoXWmwKS_7nfWSy5J4Cu3_lXiz5FLfSCEUnfE/w214-h320/20211001_195651.jpg" width="214" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riesling champagne<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjee5IdYU-D9TZBMYDpoBLF5ZR4v9taqMXwHm9Pu9lJX78VBb3UHmtwuSegUXYV3DT6Cx9CsezEr6yB829rl0dhHR2tR1lpuEiwhVJitagCZrQmWiVIZwMLF2x-7B-5_pTVA-ny/s2048/20211001_213803.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1449" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjee5IdYU-D9TZBMYDpoBLF5ZR4v9taqMXwHm9Pu9lJX78VBb3UHmtwuSegUXYV3DT6Cx9CsezEr6yB829rl0dhHR2tR1lpuEiwhVJitagCZrQmWiVIZwMLF2x-7B-5_pTVA-ny/s320/20211001_213803.jpg" width="226" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alchemistenklause</td></tr></tbody></table> </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZ1a5BoqRYeZAfgAhVQI_Gdre68hNLL8Vw940I7gNUFJdsJKcS9aODiMyUvgwDpM0-GSwsbHumFLRoNc9INhiFmzg-ia8d-boB7TqSsTa7t_i6C7VNz7AahDgANmPOAT6n0Y3/s1198/Alchemistenklause.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1198" data-original-width="1081" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihZ1a5BoqRYeZAfgAhVQI_Gdre68hNLL8Vw940I7gNUFJdsJKcS9aODiMyUvgwDpM0-GSwsbHumFLRoNc9INhiFmzg-ia8d-boB7TqSsTa7t_i6C7VNz7AahDgANmPOAT6n0Y3/s320/Alchemistenklause.jpg" width="289" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main courses<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div><br /></div><div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7V1Y6PHpZAnd44FT36dgI80phVbaF285P1wOpdSQ-9U2UzL1C_i4MzMsTegoOyzz6e6wGf7MQP2BYdpZJx544Ajp02nRRaD_SS99zXs4sbQSnIGicamLBFIFGO9lKMK5Lq6pX/s2048/20211003_150832.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7V1Y6PHpZAnd44FT36dgI80phVbaF285P1wOpdSQ-9U2UzL1C_i4MzMsTegoOyzz6e6wGf7MQP2BYdpZJx544Ajp02nRRaD_SS99zXs4sbQSnIGicamLBFIFGO9lKMK5Lq6pX/s320/20211003_150832.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Halle also has a castle ruin, where a light show was performed for Reunification Day (October 3). The castle Giebichenstein was a residence for Holy Roman Emperor Otto the Great (936-973), who later gave it to the Archbishop of Magdeburg. The archbishops made Giebichenstein Castle their principal residence from 1382 until the archbishops moved into the newly built Moritzburg castle in Halle in 1503 (Moritzburg is today a modern art museum, which we will have to visit on our next visit to Halle.) The castle ruin overlooks the Saale river, and we walked along the banks of the river back to the Moritzburg. There are moored boats and little huts along the banks that sell food and drink. Because it was my birthday, we stopped for ice cream.</div><div></div><div><br /><div></div><div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP-GaylbbB2mL9rsXaFLI2Wx4GKkbupIp5GWx6u7nCH8-84B3r6dtFNz8q-0Eyfqit8nv6HBvZGOyltsgCVESvbAF00vwD1ijUzjGZlP-VtUHkDBFggE8aia-xKQpD35Ls9SC/s2048/20211004_112136.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP-GaylbbB2mL9rsXaFLI2Wx4GKkbupIp5GWx6u7nCH8-84B3r6dtFNz8q-0Eyfqit8nv6HBvZGOyltsgCVESvbAF00vwD1ijUzjGZlP-VtUHkDBFggE8aia-xKQpD35Ls9SC/s320/20211004_112136.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>There are more treats in Halle. The oldest chocolate factory in Germany was just a block from our hotel. The name is Halloren, and it is comparatively small. It was founded in 1804 in Halle, and after its initial glory days, it fell on hard times during the communist period (Halle was in the GDR). The factory was practically worthless by the time of the fall of the wall, but the name Halloren still had marketing appeal. So some German investors from Hanover invested in the factory and gradually brought it back to western standards. </div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiazwpnySzZKnDhkjgBcMbf2ri1olmJVvfDhxBETvRsbU8dwLIHEW74CHByrBZJmEPGAoHQ1GoXEDlbUN4e2SRO8vefGTc_72H79oZev-DLooSgg2YRjGWmD1LFK4ZBIfZE_PxK/s2048/20211004_112031.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiazwpnySzZKnDhkjgBcMbf2ri1olmJVvfDhxBETvRsbU8dwLIHEW74CHByrBZJmEPGAoHQ1GoXEDlbUN4e2SRO8vefGTc_72H79oZev-DLooSgg2YRjGWmD1LFK4ZBIfZE_PxK/s320/20211004_112031.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />There is a museum that presents the history of chocolate in Central America through the Spanish acquisition to the popularization in England. The history of the Halloren company is given last, and there is a life-size sculpture of the founder in his office, all made out of chocolate! The furniture, food, fireplace, rug, even the walls! And the smell was amazing! We had to buy way too much chocolate at the factory store before leaving. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><br /></div></div></div>Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0Halle (Saale), Germany51.4969802 11.968802923.186746363821158 -23.1874471 79.807214036178848 47.1250529tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-27548952862572131952021-06-27T08:56:00.005+02:002021-06-27T14:35:43.792+02:00Kathy's birthday in Seebruck on Chiemsee<p> We finally had good weather for Kathy's birthday this year on the lake in Bavaria called Chiemsee.</p><p>We stayed in a small town called Seebruck on the northern point of the lake. It was the site of an ancient Roman fortress called Bedaium on the road from Augsburg (named after Emperor Augustus) to Salzburg. The name Bedaium comes from locally worshiped Celtic god Bedaius, and the addition of Celtic culture to the local history was interesting. The Celtic people, the Alauni, along with Bedaium are even mentioned in Roman texts. <br /></p><p> </p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2BZ78otqir_Lnt7C-MIS2sm45wBFOC6Vlt9l1MveSbFbX-23Wu_ejcgq2YzVoJ7Qpy177LnLvr8hQksWWXQ01LA_3Is4SF9blfj_q9MHdlJBJMeUWvel2S4mtG4BBhpgeLTho/s4000/20210619_174831.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2BZ78otqir_Lnt7C-MIS2sm45wBFOC6Vlt9l1MveSbFbX-23Wu_ejcgq2YzVoJ7Qpy177LnLvr8hQksWWXQ01LA_3Is4SF9blfj_q9MHdlJBJMeUWvel2S4mtG4BBhpgeLTho/s320/20210619_174831.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ancient Roman smokehouse foundation<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>The site was excavated from 1972 until 1974, and some of the treasures are on display in the small museum next to the excavation site. Adjacent to our hotel is the foundation of roman smokehouse. They would light fires and channel the smoke between stone walls under the floor, which is indicated by some wooden planks in the photo. The smoke would come up into the room where fish and meats were hung. Next to the building was a well, where four well-preserved wooden baskets (see photo) were found. The purpose of the baskets is not known. Everyone loves a mystery.<br /><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7658QhUggeTZkp28-qzH3AJ-VTvlGy9z4nsQywvM4VxfZ3aLy0mdFsFGXiQy4t63OhhtX9VpcCD7slU02hhc12cdP2vX03KphBrMLg-cCgs2l5rYj__LndihnZCFLH-fpn4w1/s4000/20210620_142338.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7658QhUggeTZkp28-qzH3AJ-VTvlGy9z4nsQywvM4VxfZ3aLy0mdFsFGXiQy4t63OhhtX9VpcCD7slU02hhc12cdP2vX03KphBrMLg-cCgs2l5rYj__LndihnZCFLH-fpn4w1/s320/20210620_142338.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">baskets found in a Roman well<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW8qgYfiQdh_JEZgmfgNVqCUiOiCChWO1eXq6q6IijfYatho0mfcoQ3HO_CD3wuJEezmY8cFsUGGe6TnvzUKERRrcLS1ivMXmh3zDerjRWT-e2mhp-3Betkw1DH-tl0veOLTGP/s4000/20210620_141940.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW8qgYfiQdh_JEZgmfgNVqCUiOiCChWO1eXq6q6IijfYatho0mfcoQ3HO_CD3wuJEezmY8cFsUGGe6TnvzUKERRrcLS1ivMXmh3zDerjRWT-e2mhp-3Betkw1DH-tl0veOLTGP/s320/20210620_141940.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">grave stone of Amanda<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />Many of the treasures found during excavation can be seen in a small museum next to the old fortress foundations. The museum contains the same types of durables that you see in many museums: vases, jewelry, metal weapons, and mile stones. Two grave stones were on exhibit. One marked the grave of a 50-year-old former slave named Amanda.<p></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNgMxE5jSSuRfBANQSEtTZ6IOwjMuvbY2448spvLLe5MHgzCkU3Pl-uC7d7vPfC74cfAp1t06M5BDjVEPiSxZSGTo3p76-tdjffOjAx9WDZ5O8SUAO4fV3hk26PHNUbJCf2gN8/s4000/20210620_144251.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNgMxE5jSSuRfBANQSEtTZ6IOwjMuvbY2448spvLLe5MHgzCkU3Pl-uC7d7vPfC74cfAp1t06M5BDjVEPiSxZSGTo3p76-tdjffOjAx9WDZ5O8SUAO4fV3hk26PHNUbJCf2gN8/s320/20210620_144251.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Some Celtic artifacts were also found during excavation. I especially liked the colorful vases from the 7th to 6th centuries b.c., which predates the Roman times.<br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> <br /></p><br /><p>Of course, we had to go for a boat ride on Kathy's birthday trip, so we went to one of the islands in Chiemsee called Fraueninsel (Ladies' Island). It is a small island with 300 inhabitants, some of whom still smoke fish and eels from the lake. Many of them are artists who run shops out of their houses. The icon of the island is the bell tower of the convent of Benedictine nuns. The nuns still live there, in spite of the secularization that occurred during the Napoleonic wars. They have a small shop where you can buy some of the products they make, like honey, candles, gingerbread, liqueurs and bitters. </p><p>The convent goes back to 782, when the Duke of Bavaria, Tassilo III, founded the first German-speaking convent beyond the alps. In 850, the convent became very important when the daughter of Ludwig the German (who was Charlemagne's grandson) was made abbess. <a href="https://de.zxc.wiki/wiki/Irmgard_von_Chiemsee" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Irmingard </a>was considered a saint, as indicated by location of her marble <a href="https://de.zxc.wiki/wiki/Mari%C3%A4_Opferung_(Frauenchiemsee)" target="_blank">coffin</a>, which was originally in the foundation <span style="vertical-align: inherit;">of the south-western pillar of the church</span>. (The idea was to show that holy people were the supports of the Church.) <br /></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSwXE0ovAId82NFJuBPsLfcM9n16qqm8lZchPpQTgdoYznYrMUtpwDlNcmeDLjd-Y6k7KjuNe2cvwSuPi_cXTjW-Qyhkgb14S0wdDy_mvtDBodHKnPgKCH4_OeBY3oxJ8ltqP/s4000/20210622_123350.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPSwXE0ovAId82NFJuBPsLfcM9n16qqm8lZchPpQTgdoYznYrMUtpwDlNcmeDLjd-Y6k7KjuNe2cvwSuPi_cXTjW-Qyhkgb14S0wdDy_mvtDBodHKnPgKCH4_OeBY3oxJ8ltqP/s320/20210622_123350.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">fresco in the Michael's Chapel<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />About 50 years after Irmingard's death, the convent was destroyed by the Huns, and the only remains from that period are the gatehouse and the foundations of the Minster. But the upper floor of the gatehouse contains the chapel of St. Michael, which contains original frescoes, one depicting archangels watching over Christ. <div><br /></div><div><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>On exhibit are also treasures such as Tassilo's chalice, which was made around 770 from copper with gold and silver overlay.<p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnK-n0u7I4pC8z-R5qC-rlInbbI8DDXBNd-z9Bl1d8D8fryZCrkfoxfZOJ20LX8LZL0CgivDk852Idvk-mDyGy42hDdg54NvVS5iWT120E-w9P7WnbKE9LjHSQx8lWNfcijy-c/s4000/20210622_124810.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnK-n0u7I4pC8z-R5qC-rlInbbI8DDXBNd-z9Bl1d8D8fryZCrkfoxfZOJ20LX8LZL0CgivDk852Idvk-mDyGy42hDdg54NvVS5iWT120E-w9P7WnbKE9LjHSQx8lWNfcijy-c/s320/20210622_124810.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Tassilo's chalice<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>There is also a bishop's cross, made in the late Merovingian period around the year 700 in a workshop on the British Isles and brought to Chiemsee perhaps in the 8th century by Irish missionaries. The cross is made out of maple wood with gold cladding.</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqcnR_8KROepxdL9nZkmQ_1dmD-A7xmefD9p8reKENbzknoNu22lvEgYIoOIhd8iP5-3yv08yiaUGuFCrHPCJDjVT5jR7dWBIKxFkYvPo8JkJRhexuVDm8E1j2SRyJcTw656d4/s4000/20210622_125630.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqcnR_8KROepxdL9nZkmQ_1dmD-A7xmefD9p8reKENbzknoNu22lvEgYIoOIhd8iP5-3yv08yiaUGuFCrHPCJDjVT5jR7dWBIKxFkYvPo8JkJRhexuVDm8E1j2SRyJcTw656d4/s320/20210622_125630.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">bishop's cross<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM6C8vuPvSONsgvD0QXl_HP5ZHEnszUUy5bvuJQZxmAmQ2WwvGMUxKL2JnvQxfLp0xot3zqouq_6pXagc4jPoAn2sbeQzXdmz45sygjInKDWXf_Jxp7LXGwQ1FeFEBTqr6wmig/s4000/20210622_131019.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM6C8vuPvSONsgvD0QXl_HP5ZHEnszUUy5bvuJQZxmAmQ2WwvGMUxKL2JnvQxfLp0xot3zqouq_6pXagc4jPoAn2sbeQzXdmz45sygjInKDWXf_Jxp7LXGwQ1FeFEBTqr6wmig/s320/20210622_131019.jpg" /></a> </p><span style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div></span><p></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><span style="text-align: center;">detail of the top of the cross</span></p><p style="text-align: right;"><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>The lake itself and how we got there</b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAGERlSa6e82gXST04PJCrIo1IYV5DnAg2FZ_bDsFw9LFdwHo-LLJueNyElXW3rU1ZzIUlSMYkcvzB1PoVqDr8WHKFBnRdryAWgJG2zp-XVd5bt0cE83pipRje-q331W6zfKUIFA/s2048/Chiemsee+bench+willow+foothills.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1888" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAGERlSa6e82gXST04PJCrIo1IYV5DnAg2FZ_bDsFw9LFdwHo-LLJueNyElXW3rU1ZzIUlSMYkcvzB1PoVqDr8WHKFBnRdryAWgJG2zp-XVd5bt0cE83pipRje-q331W6zfKUIFA/s320/Chiemsee+bench+willow+foothills.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>Chiemsee (the name means Chiem Lake) is just north of the foothills of the alps. We took the train to the main train station at the southern end of the lake (Prien am Chiemsee), whence we planned to take the bus to the northern end. However, after missing the bus, we were lucky enough to take a little tourist train to the harbor on the lake.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSj_5Xt8YCn39gJj_QRlUJ9KW7i4VsZLEwMuRuGBuZB4ubNEs9XuhVWHqEjsD9pzsTMCBxfVYqYNOMOqdEaUDNwfXXvxNyB4TIVEBPvOJnQR9SpXgcqJohCBAQbMEf83KwvLfzbQ/s2048/Chiemsee+on+the+Chiemseebahn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1560" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSj_5Xt8YCn39gJj_QRlUJ9KW7i4VsZLEwMuRuGBuZB4ubNEs9XuhVWHqEjsD9pzsTMCBxfVYqYNOMOqdEaUDNwfXXvxNyB4TIVEBPvOJnQR9SpXgcqJohCBAQbMEf83KwvLfzbQ/s320/Chiemsee+on+the+Chiemseebahn.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh07F8qPRq3B0_IlzfqHo-EQ-P9N8UAhxUcr1Mfxhqd48iX5oG1lvXFKEsH_f5pNLy6Maux5RiRdD2lX84IjouJKaYTiDCw2lj55Q_XEfUxhQ91sC3ew4s2ik73Lo1TZXUn3LdGMw/s2048/Chiemsee+steamlocomotive+at+lake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1685" data-original-width="2048" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh07F8qPRq3B0_IlzfqHo-EQ-P9N8UAhxUcr1Mfxhqd48iX5oG1lvXFKEsH_f5pNLy6Maux5RiRdD2lX84IjouJKaYTiDCw2lj55Q_XEfUxhQ91sC3ew4s2ik73Lo1TZXUn3LdGMw/w320-h262/Chiemsee+steamlocomotive+at+lake.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>A small steam locomotive (cute!) pulled the train for the 8 minute trip through town to the harbor. Along the way, kids on the streets waved at the train. The picture at right shows the steam locomotive at the harbor preparing to take the train back into town.<br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>From the harbor, we took a boat to the town of Seebruck (lake bridge) at the northern end. This one happens to be a paddle boat. The whole trip took about an hour, with the boat making stops at the islands and towns along the way.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkEYMOhYS8KP4KqoHJsTe4E6jLl8o-c4CizaeW3D3_KfyqmBBqOvsc72aB4fjkuokbE6QM57lEA2_3vG0FV-aH6tVbRGJ63fS3yMIJetTCYVzLJCpPEuxKRDaYWmJfKQ3-uUyxJA/s2048/Chiemsee+paddle+boat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1079" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkEYMOhYS8KP4KqoHJsTe4E6jLl8o-c4CizaeW3D3_KfyqmBBqOvsc72aB4fjkuokbE6QM57lEA2_3vG0FV-aH6tVbRGJ63fS3yMIJetTCYVzLJCpPEuxKRDaYWmJfKQ3-uUyxJA/s320/Chiemsee+paddle+boat.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>From our slick hotel, which had its own expansive lawn with roses in full bloom, we walked to a point of land designated as a nature preserve. There was a two-story tower offering a telescope for watching the local bird life. Many coastal areas on the lake, including large parts of the islands' shores, are designated nature sanctuaries to protect nesting and migrating bird species and fish spawning grounds. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz4CwuDHGEK4rpwXc48Ych4ULIf0YoApGIpcv3UgqbnrGFq6VaQuwu3Vnw0_dLUs-DkmmK8_R4d5MvIk4jclCrPZvUOYoPlQM53qscY6x8p6g6AjnU7NZz26NEMCmbjFr6cgObFg/s2048/Chiemsee+R+at+birdwatching+park.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1732" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz4CwuDHGEK4rpwXc48Ych4ULIf0YoApGIpcv3UgqbnrGFq6VaQuwu3Vnw0_dLUs-DkmmK8_R4d5MvIk4jclCrPZvUOYoPlQM53qscY6x8p6g6AjnU7NZz26NEMCmbjFr6cgObFg/s320/Chiemsee+R+at+birdwatching+park.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>In the picture above, the metal structure in the background near the birdwatching pavilion is part of a sculpture commissioned for the town. Throughout the town, commissioned metal sculptures speak of the town's history. I call this one "Three Celts in a Boat"; it was on the lake front near the town beach.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhacJiWQMDnI_0v2oOICmY-GpLyCmV8_Qt4HvwUT1weCY77e15omIEuABBDPO7tI2h5QMOs3M5IPfFpf2Q5F723ry2t209bExFpVIOJo4879M-9HZCUM4msOudSCPimkytoYS92yg/s2048/Chiemsee+Celts+in+a+boat.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1144" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhacJiWQMDnI_0v2oOICmY-GpLyCmV8_Qt4HvwUT1weCY77e15omIEuABBDPO7tI2h5QMOs3M5IPfFpf2Q5F723ry2t209bExFpVIOJo4879M-9HZCUM4msOudSCPimkytoYS92yg/s320/Chiemsee+Celts+in+a+boat.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>On our second day there, we walked out away from town into a nature preserve. The path wound along the lake, going by reed beds where signs were posted encouraging people to protect the nesting grounds of the various birds in the area.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgle-lKi_W9rHDf0nAjpl2HtO18FInMBgNpMlw1v3DP3gg75dfxSmUCVPrYgZS93QOpL8LaREhqfzNYqetMt33DkZspC-qNwB5JH6jFDiZVNYu9dzeTup4VITU2Ook5eXsGfuFJsw/s2048/Chiemsee+lake_foothills+through+willows.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgle-lKi_W9rHDf0nAjpl2HtO18FInMBgNpMlw1v3DP3gg75dfxSmUCVPrYgZS93QOpL8LaREhqfzNYqetMt33DkZspC-qNwB5JH6jFDiZVNYu9dzeTup4VITU2Ook5eXsGfuFJsw/w400-h300/Chiemsee+lake_foothills+through+willows.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div>About 2 miles out, we found a campground packed with campers. It had its own café/beer garden, so we stopped for refreshments. Richard had an "Eisschokolade" - a scoop of ice cream dunked into a glass of hot chocolate. Just perfect for that hot day. <div><br /></div><div>Because Seebruck is a small town, not many options for dining existed besides the tourist places beside the town beach. Richard found the best place in town and made reservations for all 3 nights. It turned out to be the "taverna" outside the Roman museum. The food was wonderful, with some Austrian specialties, because the owner comes from Kärnten in Austria. </div><div>The house aperitif was a mix of limoncello and prosecco with mint leaves. We also enjoyed a wonderful rosé wine 2 out of the 3 nights. </div><div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmtbpuP0II7gPVK98NVUzBrydcx4vm-JncQew980Q2jIHWiUZfwiH9AA1zAoicMEcesFFrWMnGLhtR4ZQyJ4XMe5nU8Y5cxMqaBWujjHY9TxK7RNVvhmEPynZiqklzQrPdVv830g/s2048/Chiemsee+limoncello+prosecco+at+taverna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1356" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmtbpuP0II7gPVK98NVUzBrydcx4vm-JncQew980Q2jIHWiUZfwiH9AA1zAoicMEcesFFrWMnGLhtR4ZQyJ4XMe5nU8Y5cxMqaBWujjHY9TxK7RNVvhmEPynZiqklzQrPdVv830g/s320/Chiemsee+limoncello+prosecco+at+taverna.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>Another great birthday trip, planned by Richard!</p><p><br /></p></div></div></div>Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com1Chiemsee, Germany47.8709042 12.453737519.560670363821153 -22.702512499999997 76.181138036178851 47.6099875tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-49691657209196045622021-01-11T11:12:00.006+01:002021-01-11T12:29:13.362+01:00Cochem on the Mosel<p><br /><br /> We had a really fun birthday trip to Cochem in October. We stayed in an unusual hotel that was the guard house for the city-gate in 1332. In our room were beds owned by the Holy Roman Empress, Maria-Therese, who had them made extra long (2 meters) so that her dog had room at the foot.</p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUGanYuGWK6rAVwJb7LsO96Pk1iPUmVJt2ZhuXQLqDE9mxkcqw8z-Mktil452V0yTDmiwR90ip8i4YSCKVciP3FgQtxdA43_BTmvhf-XP68OGa01nO3l015v8SyC4237vQUu0/s4000/20201004_083006.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipUGanYuGWK6rAVwJb7LsO96Pk1iPUmVJt2ZhuXQLqDE9mxkcqw8z-Mktil452V0yTDmiwR90ip8i4YSCKVciP3FgQtxdA43_BTmvhf-XP68OGa01nO3l015v8SyC4237vQUu0/s320/20201004_083006.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">City gate from 1332 with guardhouse<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcrI5iSPxtb3PBKS3-22FzUsrhwHrxFcqlSXPa4DruDSdQlrmR1u6tozoJufsH9s7iqZ1BCNScFsoIv6M6IbSTjF3C53-IpDrUiz1IkMcui83RhmJi8Gbgq8LSkm-n-suB7hXX/s4000/20201002_174521.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcrI5iSPxtb3PBKS3-22FzUsrhwHrxFcqlSXPa4DruDSdQlrmR1u6tozoJufsH9s7iqZ1BCNScFsoIv6M6IbSTjF3C53-IpDrUiz1IkMcui83RhmJi8Gbgq8LSkm-n-suB7hXX/s320/20201002_174521.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maria-Therese's bed<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><br /></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcYVTHXfQioqR2G9k4iU-1YG6H1p0_KJZyxKijslTN-Z0TatmrxjS0p0nDvRX_MF3nQv6DDnvQe7uW0Jcie9v1YNESy7xKHEevbpEpysGSVTGhmkemha80JTv6V3v0ElJKlIpp/s4000/20201003_132753.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcYVTHXfQioqR2G9k4iU-1YG6H1p0_KJZyxKijslTN-Z0TatmrxjS0p0nDvRX_MF3nQv6DDnvQe7uW0Jcie9v1YNESy7xKHEevbpEpysGSVTGhmkemha80JTv6V3v0ElJKlIpp/s320/20201003_132753.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Document of the bed<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZF4SLr-WPnRnHXPc0CuY8DaEWJqz5zXGIoC1a2ROrg666N3K8jGuZILkSyuiPnZmQZ-_L-lTYkSrE_y2Er6jsTNjRJPR5wK7INdNySadGW2Bg52JqBxGhWv3DpTz_sDVzPqQ/s4000/20201002_173826.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNZF4SLr-WPnRnHXPc0CuY8DaEWJqz5zXGIoC1a2ROrg666N3K8jGuZILkSyuiPnZmQZ-_L-lTYkSrE_y2Er6jsTNjRJPR5wK7INdNySadGW2Bg52JqBxGhWv3DpTz_sDVzPqQ/s320/20201002_173826.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotel Alte Torschenke<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ljN4odZNm48rOynW1tjpUyioCgE4nxh32SSjYqwB5BvAktHP2RPVIJjkdlhzKkB89Ng1WbCdw1omHmw-aCJE0sBLCbEX9E9SCiG6STSq0kaPbQJKsB1sBvB9dFp0nN03657N/s4000/20201003_120513.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ljN4odZNm48rOynW1tjpUyioCgE4nxh32SSjYqwB5BvAktHP2RPVIJjkdlhzKkB89Ng1WbCdw1omHmw-aCJE0sBLCbEX9E9SCiG6STSq0kaPbQJKsB1sBvB9dFp0nN03657N/s320/20201003_120513.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reichsburg Cochem<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> Cochem is on the bank of the Mosel River, which was an important trade route in the middle ages. A toll station on the river at Cochem made the city prosperous, and so a castle was built to protect the chain that stretched across the river that prevented passage. The castle goes back to around 1100, and in 1151, the Holy Roman Emperor, Konrad III, captured the castle. Since then, it has been referred to as the <a href="https://reichsburg-cochem.de/the-castle/?lang=en#historie" target="_blank">Reichsburg</a> (Imperial castle). <br /><p></p><p><br /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVoUHrGClOtsFVEykNUvP2yJWY9LlxM-ksWhm007h6jEchaYD1r-d90pLrEwbKYs0nvOsSNaKNtW9CNSRZVpGPxteIspvkklDVjIBcEjA2NfVvadwb0OiK2mn1CyCLm3UyFaF/s4000/20201002_182206.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFVoUHrGClOtsFVEykNUvP2yJWY9LlxM-ksWhm007h6jEchaYD1r-d90pLrEwbKYs0nvOsSNaKNtW9CNSRZVpGPxteIspvkklDVjIBcEjA2NfVvadwb0OiK2mn1CyCLm3UyFaF/s320/20201002_182206.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road up the hill<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /> </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpmprP46rrLUJR9isiagBjXkI7eV1t8hrvEUmWHNuE7PeXEpXxSEC6hDZ0RZpzQSMeQk2uxVlabE7YBbrn7gGo9Jo_X8LG-MIB0_GZ9yMulvllwLHbeZLYOfKWjezXdu4PHz0y/s2048/20201002_192225.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpmprP46rrLUJR9isiagBjXkI7eV1t8hrvEUmWHNuE7PeXEpXxSEC6hDZ0RZpzQSMeQk2uxVlabE7YBbrn7gGo9Jo_X8LG-MIB0_GZ9yMulvllwLHbeZLYOfKWjezXdu4PHz0y/s320/20201002_192225.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drawing of the castle ruin<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <p></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>The troupes of King Louis XIV of France invaded the Rhine
and the Moselle area in 1688, and in March 1689, the castle was set on fire,
undermined and blown up. </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><br /> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyM1AqQPv_Xn-mFg0qRB9cLmRRhg-54ECxFLzZ4ycLb3qTBGpV2XEJ8qu-0cBF4viwYU7fEQkD32U1oyZ3UfFvrDe6o1lgGEIFWz8hPuo2ZfmJR4qdIIjxlB8VM9YZhBuL_0W6/s4000/20201002_182438.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyM1AqQPv_Xn-mFg0qRB9cLmRRhg-54ECxFLzZ4ycLb3qTBGpV2XEJ8qu-0cBF4viwYU7fEQkD32U1oyZ3UfFvrDe6o1lgGEIFWz8hPuo2ZfmJR4qdIIjxlB8VM9YZhBuL_0W6/s320/20201002_182438.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The castle remained a ruin until 1868, when a Berlin businessman bought the
castle grounds and the ruins in order to rebuild the castle as a family retreat. The Prussian King Wilhelm I authorized the sale on the following conditions:
<p></p><ol><li>The preservation of the standing ruins and the reconstruction according to historic parameter </li><li>Authorization of the building plans by the Minister for science and culture</li><li>Partial opening of the castle to the public</li><li>Preemption right of the state</li></ol><p> </p><p>The family collection of Renaissance and Baroque furniture was added to the castle, which was the main attraction for me. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ8_oc3OlgESXH9wGNu9xOVdGkkliL3qWtVCogeyZ9nGLnkyJNpOhBiq9uQekz4hPfK6aBPY3cdnBs0EyhFPhcTEjKUTKPRDwJQbtWhiolqjwWorufnWTB-OFPQG9Urdr_NBcv/s320/20201002_191633.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castle furnishings<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ8_oc3OlgESXH9wGNu9xOVdGkkliL3qWtVCogeyZ9nGLnkyJNpOhBiq9uQekz4hPfK6aBPY3cdnBs0EyhFPhcTEjKUTKPRDwJQbtWhiolqjwWorufnWTB-OFPQG9Urdr_NBcv/s4000/20201002_191633.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a></p><p><br /></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbj36RTrsgg5ZgO_oZD5HHP-BHw7jXpUFv9z-v0O3XTaHlqOuwbu423K04-g8hoRGhqLVkZnxVaVQlEyUEe6JnjyqJcGS5bZy_XQNZDs2p84RXEkNOqsxZITMji92zFywP9yv/s4000/20201002_191445.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbj36RTrsgg5ZgO_oZD5HHP-BHw7jXpUFv9z-v0O3XTaHlqOuwbu423K04-g8hoRGhqLVkZnxVaVQlEyUEe6JnjyqJcGS5bZy_XQNZDs2p84RXEkNOqsxZITMji92zFywP9yv/s320/20201002_191445.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More castle furnishings<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3XvWA6P67KgX1qw9oMD9gOeudgqM6wLb_iZ65EROKj3KaJ0e3vwsh3P17mHseofXm3siw9gf3v-uZ4nARL-PHNqBwSBm6BFtFGMjK6W1C5PL84spy8fbvRn6t_TGUSNY5Zguv/s4000/20201002_192439.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3XvWA6P67KgX1qw9oMD9gOeudgqM6wLb_iZ65EROKj3KaJ0e3vwsh3P17mHseofXm3siw9gf3v-uZ4nARL-PHNqBwSBm6BFtFGMjK6W1C5PL84spy8fbvRn6t_TGUSNY5Zguv/s320/20201002_192439.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our tour guide (during the pandemic)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br />.<br /><br /> <br /><br /> <p></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcYBCNF4tcRGj1LzP9eLy6hqn0xYwxupppcMyGrwqIHpDxzedbGDF6zFEKNOkalUHHo4TLhN1lIBCtp-sddTA9Ynpjv_njpe6UvzhJfncfm__aiMbSwBPBBksgQHXi_OASLa6Y/s4000/20201002_200819.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcYBCNF4tcRGj1LzP9eLy6hqn0xYwxupppcMyGrwqIHpDxzedbGDF6zFEKNOkalUHHo4TLhN1lIBCtp-sddTA9Ynpjv_njpe6UvzhJfncfm__aiMbSwBPBBksgQHXi_OASLa6Y/s320/20201002_200819.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lord of the Manor welcoming us<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>After the tour of the castle, we took part in an authentic medieval feast (called a Rittermahl, or Knight's meal). The Lord of the Manor welcomed us with a goblet of Moselle wine (a very nice Riesling) and told us about medieval customs and table manners.<br /><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><br /> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUWo5GRoGuyYStsnkik6hsMFBu069-Hgy1Wuq3cTIbxGXThOzztlnkPrcJbY4XSC_U6rdV6xPbm5CDJ9OHpMnqexJKs2wUJtAlhAiE4Oc7F5NeRoANYV0r9WwGIZULgEJ2AhTV/s4000/20201002_201202.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUWo5GRoGuyYStsnkik6hsMFBu069-Hgy1Wuq3cTIbxGXThOzztlnkPrcJbY4XSC_U6rdV6xPbm5CDJ9OHpMnqexJKs2wUJtAlhAiE4Oc7F5NeRoANYV0r9WwGIZULgEJ2AhTV/s320/20201002_201202.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Servants provided water for washing hands<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMN3kNrRsMkUiFs504w2qmnokP-wfvTB8dMUBbpVlksVvGp8_kDCaL30rNhDHokp1rQCwEONIrbeGBE3ZXzZ6lxqzPxnFLd1dLWa92ynXwXDUiOA9r5N507sBplfmlXsqSbCim/s4000/20201002_203840.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="3000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMN3kNrRsMkUiFs504w2qmnokP-wfvTB8dMUBbpVlksVvGp8_kDCaL30rNhDHokp1rQCwEONIrbeGBE3ZXzZ6lxqzPxnFLd1dLWa92ynXwXDUiOA9r5N507sBplfmlXsqSbCim/s320/20201002_203840.jpg" /></a></div>Servants and maids in period costumes served us bread with lard, and then make the rounds while a hot and spicy soup is steaming in the cookery pot. Huge drum sticks are served for the main course.<br /><br /> <p></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT0R2l6ojMPFvN1hA-gyL1vwTGEZkm2ks-GbnoNu9KHcoTS4zvGqRJl2CMp76_OOQ2dH9L4CMDl7BTm_mubHArLrl4gdKcM0PMNtdwyJWVrHngumKwqdo-gnF-NA6g95BGlsTT/s4000/20201002_202148.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3000" data-original-width="4000" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT0R2l6ojMPFvN1hA-gyL1vwTGEZkm2ks-GbnoNu9KHcoTS4zvGqRJl2CMp76_OOQ2dH9L4CMDl7BTm_mubHArLrl4gdKcM0PMNtdwyJWVrHngumKwqdo-gnF-NA6g95BGlsTT/s320/20201002_202148.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jesters provided entertainment<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Jesters in medieval outfits provide entertainment and authentic music. Old “torture instruments” are displayed, and the evening ended with the traditional knighting ceremony.<br /> <p></p><p></p><p><br /><br /><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The meal came to an end with cheese, grapes and biscuits. And more wine, of course.</p><p><br /><br /></p><p><br /> </p><br />Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-80379588094094730462020-08-06T16:19:00.006+02:002020-08-17T16:40:29.549+02:00Marburg: a University Town, Saint Elisabeth's Final Resting Place and the Brothers Grimm<div>Before we went to Marburg, its appeal for us was two attractions: <br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>as the place where the Brothers Grimm were professors at the university and,</li><li>the Elisabethkirche, the church built on the grave of St. Elizabeth.</li></ul></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;">Before we left, we had added a third attraction:</div><div style="text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>the picturesque town on the hill <br /></li></ul></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFouBI8d3W11sMdE1h8P_npmKvTBtnXmT4YTKSqoFUH3BdJVHW2yBAORQFX83Z7xx430zATG07L1hzw2v0CUA4iZAwbX3X80EiXCz1Wm3jFIMmqqtd3DlukFC6MkxiqyGfq-oS/s2048/20200804_142328.jpg" style="clear: right; display: block; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFouBI8d3W11sMdE1h8P_npmKvTBtnXmT4YTKSqoFUH3BdJVHW2yBAORQFX83Z7xx430zATG07L1hzw2v0CUA4iZAwbX3X80EiXCz1Wm3jFIMmqqtd3DlukFC6MkxiqyGfq-oS/w240-h320/20200804_142328.jpg" width="240" /></a>We started by getting an overview of the town by going to a look-out point on the hill on the opposite side of the Lahn river. On the hill is a tower built during Germany's Romantic period by a guy of the name Spiegel. The locals call the tower the Spiegelslustturm (literally, Spiegel's passion tower, where "passion" is used in the sense of enjoyment). From here you can see both the Elisabethkirche and the Landgrave's Palace looking over the town.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">We rode a bus up the hill to the Landgrave's Palace. The ride was a bit nerve-racking, even as as the driver slowly drove up the steep and narrow streets. Sometimes it seemed like the bus was going to start slipping backwards down the hill!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH5a4FKSMCax9HtbtrzF7emsvJpTrd2jE38pGaopIcKBzALS953tN0rn3FoACrxPyBtKs6aeeDWar2HC50pvrnxC-M1bk0nGdbkmSzzImzELDQ_I2kUf-9onrecSIOFwq-eoMS/s2048/Marburger_Schloss_024.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH5a4FKSMCax9HtbtrzF7emsvJpTrd2jE38pGaopIcKBzALS953tN0rn3FoACrxPyBtKs6aeeDWar2HC50pvrnxC-M1bk0nGdbkmSzzImzELDQ_I2kUf-9onrecSIOFwq-eoMS/w320-h240/Marburger_Schloss_024.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> The Landgrave's Palace was built in many stages. It started as a castle in the late 800s, and in 911 it belonged to<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conrad_I_of_Germany" target="_blank"> Konrad I</a>, the first <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franks" target="_blank">Frankish </a>king of East Francia (i.e., Germany) not a member of Charlemagne's descendants.<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhetlLb0vxw8rR-H5NqZmvseTFfC7oDdG1DSHfPHW5_t44CKDneNDN__TcWAr34T0aumkOagkkGF7VdGJl6dsZo5vrL3y-iad_X4iWfj7LOStWncQoriHkkwRcydVmgGNv6UPQq/s2048/20200804_154858.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhetlLb0vxw8rR-H5NqZmvseTFfC7oDdG1DSHfPHW5_t44CKDneNDN__TcWAr34T0aumkOagkkGF7VdGJl6dsZo5vrL3y-iad_X4iWfj7LOStWncQoriHkkwRcydVmgGNv6UPQq/w320-h240/20200804_154858.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> It was expanded in four phases over the centuries until it was converted to a palace during the Renaissance period (when castles were becoming obsolete). <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4V9-rzX9ji8-F9wyEvqUUxQ2np0VtaEJlYQhyxzyvlTzCiYcVw6wZ8AXm7dfdEf_9fyhk1xJblFm0CnGKZJoSFBdj8UQX7yiFJozkxX2ppcRNuK_Suh0_HmtKO14xXhqMAv4O/s2048/20200804_160036.jpg" style="clear: right; display: block; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4V9-rzX9ji8-F9wyEvqUUxQ2np0VtaEJlYQhyxzyvlTzCiYcVw6wZ8AXm7dfdEf_9fyhk1xJblFm0CnGKZJoSFBdj8UQX7yiFJozkxX2ppcRNuK_Suh0_HmtKO14xXhqMAv4O/w240-h320/20200804_160036.jpg" width="240" /><br /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">It was expanded in two more phases since then, and today it is a museum.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div>We walked down the hill through the old town below the palace. This was the nicest surprise of the trip. The old town is the site of the old city hall, the old university, and many half-timbered buildings. We started with Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) at Bückingsgarten, which is perched just below the castle and looks out over the town.<br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3AXvVShyK-9KgJM09mxEtFeaqgdzvXWrwKmo85Wmfd3qIUAGrA3-Fsoc7moj0Ep9YxaY5tRu1juT9McjBgtDm62bohdeW2HIVpWIjueUq8yanH9-5H_8wySLcdpO7DFDn8C-0/s2048/20200804_165616.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3AXvVShyK-9KgJM09mxEtFeaqgdzvXWrwKmo85Wmfd3qIUAGrA3-Fsoc7moj0Ep9YxaY5tRu1juT9McjBgtDm62bohdeW2HIVpWIjueUq8yanH9-5H_8wySLcdpO7DFDn8C-0/w320-h240/20200804_165616.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terrace of the Bückingsgarten<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg3pki9hVcnKmZ_ReF1Lv4HaeHF8RbinF5j48ANOBB-GYNsG1f7i3JQOzDbgqpj4M1Siq6zQDwIzQ4WGjFFFjYN2rYFF6adeR9Q44d_uUEBa1KHsj-SrD9XKwkI4h93RJPujSF/s2048/20200804_174432.jpg" style="clear: right; display: block; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg3pki9hVcnKmZ_ReF1Lv4HaeHF8RbinF5j48ANOBB-GYNsG1f7i3JQOzDbgqpj4M1Siq6zQDwIzQ4WGjFFFjYN2rYFF6adeR9Q44d_uUEBa1KHsj-SrD9XKwkI4h93RJPujSF/w240-h320/20200804_174432.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Half-timbered buildings in the old town<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglhWHwvCqS2okS8qRQ3_dZiYmtquuzUOIHDz0pB-xDaWUhFvoIgkUuOrEO4_eYUlaSJ1pJG-DjwjJNiTPiC9tla1QC8p7jMcPbME4kRKLsEY1buwCYsKUc7fHxHaSZ1Dq3thJ3/s2048/20200804_175510.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglhWHwvCqS2okS8qRQ3_dZiYmtquuzUOIHDz0pB-xDaWUhFvoIgkUuOrEO4_eYUlaSJ1pJG-DjwjJNiTPiC9tla1QC8p7jMcPbME4kRKLsEY1buwCYsKUc7fHxHaSZ1Dq3thJ3/w320-h240/20200804_175510.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old City Hall<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpIqj0vyVAwvVEiQ6udsOIlvDxSJ-p7xNlBNIeoftAMCCE15ufPYVfpW3YhU0PJcfBh2BblR9KTLvHj8fq6fFCZC6EcpAw95Fn0wnqz8dHbVK2-TR9Q9qIQvBAwgVIRCXcn0B3/s2048/20200804_175639.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpIqj0vyVAwvVEiQ6udsOIlvDxSJ-p7xNlBNIeoftAMCCE15ufPYVfpW3YhU0PJcfBh2BblR9KTLvHj8fq6fFCZC6EcpAw95Fn0wnqz8dHbVK2-TR9Q9qIQvBAwgVIRCXcn0B3/w240-h320/20200804_175639.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Impressive building on the old city market square<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">We found a building with a plaque stating that Martin Luther stayed here. He must have been very influential, because the university is the oldest protestant university in the world, founded in 1527 during Luther's lifetime. We also found the building where Jacob Grimm lived. The brothers Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm also studied and were professors at the university here, making the city a popular stop on the <a href="https://www.deutsche-maerchenstrasse.com/en/your-journey/destinations/places-and-regions/view/marburg">German Fairy Tale Road</a>. The first ever winner of the Nobel Prize for Medicine also studied here. The current university buildings were built between 1873 and 1891.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">On our second day in Marburg we visited the Elisabethkirche. Who was Elizabeth? We have written about <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_of_Hungary" target="_blank">Elisabeth of Hungary</a> in earlier blog posts. To recap, at the age of four, Elizabeth was brought to the court of the <a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rulers_of_Thuringia">rulers of Thuringia</a> in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wartburg" target="_blank">Wartburg</a>, Germany, to be betrothed to <a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_IV,_Landgrave_of_Thuringia">Ludwg IV, Landgrave of Thuringia</a>. She was raised by the Thuringian court, surrounded by the local language and culture. In 1221, at the age of fourteen, Elizabeth married Ludwig. In the spring of 1226, when Thuringia suffered floods, famine, and plague, Ludwig went to Italy to represent the Holy Roman Emperor, Frederick II, at the <a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imperial_Diet_%28Holy_Roman_Empire%29">Imperial Diet</a>. Elizabeth, now nineteen years old, assumed control of affairs at home. When Elizabeth was 20, Ludwig died on his way to the sixth crusade, leaving their son Hermann ruler. Ludwig's brother, Heinrich Raspe, assumed regency, and Elizabeth left the Wartburg for Marburg.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; height: 368px; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left; width: 215px;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo_yomP7dddH1eIPj3GEZndLYHV1M_q6a8Ek2cl1oMp6jIFdyC0GPnt5lbdg1FRZbDVkvZmk_NUvksHL8VC_2Q3G6GGH-eeGuPy5CEROpCSXxHh8vCsdz-_zjg4qjNaDBPJ1kY/s2048/20200805_102949.jpg" style="clear: left; display: block; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1373" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo_yomP7dddH1eIPj3GEZndLYHV1M_q6a8Ek2cl1oMp6jIFdyC0GPnt5lbdg1FRZbDVkvZmk_NUvksHL8VC_2Q3G6GGH-eeGuPy5CEROpCSXxHh8vCsdz-_zjg4qjNaDBPJ1kY/w215-h320/20200805_102949.jpg" width="215" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the Elisabethkirche<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Around 1223, when Elizabeth was sixteen, the priest and later inquisitor, Konrad von Marburg, was appointed as her confessor, and he had great influence over Elizabeth. She began doing good works, such as distributing alms in all parts of their territory, even giving away state robes and ornaments to the poor. Below <a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wartburg_Castle">Wartburg Castle</a>, she built a hospital with twenty-eight beds and visited the inmates daily to attend to them. After moving to Marburg, Elizabeth built another hospital. When she died, she was buried in the chapel of the hospital.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmlEVQmpMvrUHgQC9qOlD0YMX4caqOE7Z1CEFlSVFu0rhskQ_Ae6rLHqlyQGkCcvCRMiNQWMXWjjDb-hNus-ppLzPGOPGEA5IqD70ZKdxLw1Pd6AvZrmcwgKC61DiJn56R-i6V/s2048/20200805_104459.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmlEVQmpMvrUHgQC9qOlD0YMX4caqOE7Z1CEFlSVFu0rhskQ_Ae6rLHqlyQGkCcvCRMiNQWMXWjjDb-hNus-ppLzPGOPGEA5IqD70ZKdxLw1Pd6AvZrmcwgKC61DiJn56R-i6V/w240-h320/20200805_104459.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grave of St. Elizabeth<br /></td></tr></tbody></table>Very soon after the death of Elizabeth in 1231, miracles were reported that
happened at her grave, especially those of
healing. It was here in 1235, the year Elizabeth was canonized, that construction was started on the church by the Order of the Teutonic Knights. Although there were earlier Gothic churches in Germany, such as the one in Trier with a circular plan, the Elisabethkirche is the first Gothic hall church with a nave and two side aisles. The ceiling of the side aisles is the same height as the nave, which characteristic of German Gothic. Another characteristic is the height of the steeples, which took until 1340 to complete. At the crossing of the choirs is a beautiful rood screen. <br /><br /><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitoMF1fWs2-7s6jktHAuPsGtS_Q6d6qRpu1PzvQl7Qyf3hOdWr7DCw_8Z9mVWFy4L6XrR6NsTCJOWs_K37LgterO3_oXDFoNC-AkGIeFuMn78ntNSanHs4blJ24OSe6c8gKomG/s2048/20200805_103336.jpg" style="clear: right; display: block; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitoMF1fWs2-7s6jktHAuPsGtS_Q6d6qRpu1PzvQl7Qyf3hOdWr7DCw_8Z9mVWFy4L6XrR6NsTCJOWs_K37LgterO3_oXDFoNC-AkGIeFuMn78ntNSanHs4blJ24OSe6c8gKomG/w240-h320/20200805_103336.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nave of the Elisabethkirche<br /></td></tr></tbody></table> <br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The construction of a golden shrine was started in 1235 and ended in 1249 when the bones were moved from the grave to the shrine. The shrine is a masterpiece of the goldsmiths’ art, and it is still the greatest treasure of the Church. The shrine was decorated with over 850 pearls and precious stones, of which three dozen precious stones from the Mediterranean region and the near east were had carved reliefs. (Under Napoleon, 117 stones, a crucifix, and various parts of figures went missing.) The shrine also has exceptionally fine filigree figures and scenes.The long sides show the 12 apostles, and the roof shows 8 reliefs from the life of Elizabeth. Each side has a gable roof with either Jesus, Mary, or Elizabeth. Elizabeth's shrine became one of the main German centers of pilgrimage of the 14th century and early 15th century. It seems to be as large as the shrine of the three kings in the Cologne cathedral!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWbn7GBkLAMDmWyXMyF9bk7WIL469W_FXzbm2VoxS8GdOc4avSH9Da5cIv4TiJI8bflnd_yI8o7ttcE5FMut6v1RcyY5TXzybrIEJ1IPRt3-BCsr2lk8KNS2ie6aSgeKtA3Z_/s2048/20200805_104932.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiWbn7GBkLAMDmWyXMyF9bk7WIL469W_FXzbm2VoxS8GdOc4avSH9Da5cIv4TiJI8bflnd_yI8o7ttcE5FMut6v1RcyY5TXzybrIEJ1IPRt3-BCsr2lk8KNS2ie6aSgeKtA3Z_/w320-h240/20200805_104932.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elizabeth's shrine<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The cult around the relics of Elisabeth was outlawed by her descendant Landgrave Philipp during the Reformation. However, the church was able to keep its relics because it belonged to the Order of Teutonic Knights, which was in turn answerable to the Holy Roman Emperor. In order to drive the pilgrims out of Marburg, the Landgrave allowed the shrine to be broken open on the 18th May 1539 and the bones to be removed. The chief of the Teutonic Knights protested against this, and he insisted that the Statthalter (Governor for the Landgrave) scatter the remains in the Pilgrims’ Cemetery of the Michelchen Church near the Elisabeth Church. But the Governor hid them in his moated fort in Wommen. In 1547, Philipp was arrested by the Emperor after a defeat in the Schmalkalden war. Philipp was able to use the bones of Elisabeth as a ‘bargaining chip’ to secure his release. He ordered that the bones be transferred to Marburg where, after a short stay, they were transported in 1558 to the chapel of the Elisabethine in Vienna.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaPnLWgP-KMqlfgJNruH7r-Vl8Py93jvdcNbQtJfuY-3RtNrzAp7QejXfTWEuWHE1_Fi0upelexG2aAMg0hOuMZ9TUPhijsBV2R90kAZ5JHh0FbhoNp2h36RCWg-37V6jm7ofU/s2048/20200805_110345.jpg" style="clear: left; display: block; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaPnLWgP-KMqlfgJNruH7r-Vl8Py93jvdcNbQtJfuY-3RtNrzAp7QejXfTWEuWHE1_Fi0upelexG2aAMg0hOuMZ9TUPhijsBV2R90kAZ5JHh0FbhoNp2h36RCWg-37V6jm7ofU/w240-h320/20200805_110345.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />There is also some beautiful medieval stained glass in the choir of the church. The Elisabeth window is among them. It represents scenes from the legend of St. Elisabeth. One of the best-known legends says that she used to go down the hill to the town bringing bread from the castle to give to the poor. She would hide the basket of bread under her cloak. Once, her husband, who in this version of the story did not approve of her sharing the wealth, demanded to know what was under her cloak. When she opened her cloak, the basket was filled with roses. <br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">In another legend, she cared for the poor and sick in the castle, even caring for a leper in her own bed. When her husband heard of this, he was upset, running to her bedroom to throw the poor leper out. When he got there, there was only a crucifix in the bed, and he was forced to admit, "Such a guest is always welcome". </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Elisabeth's story and legends are what make the local history interesting. You might remember the story of Empress Kunigunde, the wife of Emperor Heinrich II, who reigned around 1000 AD, who founded the Bishopric of Bamberg and had the Bamberg Cathedral built, just a half-hour's train ride north of us. Empress Kunigunde was also said to have performed miracles during her lifetime. She was worshiped as a saint, and her relics and a tomb depicting her miracles are displayed in the Bamberg Cathedral.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Americans in the US might have folk-tales and tall tales, but there are very few legends about historic women who were so revered as to have generated stories about their supposed sainthood. It is the centuries of recorded history that make the culture so rich here in Europe. The way Christianity formed layers that built on the pagan traditions that existed in Europe prior to 600 AD, gradually becoming more and more orthodox as time went on, is fascinating to learn about. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Surrounding the Elisabethkirche are other buildings that belonged to the Order of Teutonic Knights. <br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghviyy_fLAagGOfUCKPMIMw57e5lBbEPQvdr-dQdM4DuuJRYQIQRAKSQ0BUUvBxu-j0GoU7gCkXnGY3VqCnxXQatlLNZd8oUAXRKvcvGpwdRk0-qxmFN3_AfKR0gLA2EGnKNXz/s2048/20200805_124710.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghviyy_fLAagGOfUCKPMIMw57e5lBbEPQvdr-dQdM4DuuJRYQIQRAKSQ0BUUvBxu-j0GoU7gCkXnGY3VqCnxXQatlLNZd8oUAXRKvcvGpwdRk0-qxmFN3_AfKR0gLA2EGnKNXz/w320-h240/20200805_124710.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deutsches Haus<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <br /><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQ5MCOTx7rT7tYY-lN0HchCD4mgCGUwtyetjo4X2q72GUkrFnibDUeZ2CBqZ212xmR3iACekQ-aUXHRblkNffRsSLlTb2fuF152XbuYwx5RUvhB8cdxlYmlK27DEIq21v7W6t/s2048/20200805_124808.jpg" style="display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 1em 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQ5MCOTx7rT7tYY-lN0HchCD4mgCGUwtyetjo4X2q72GUkrFnibDUeZ2CBqZ212xmR3iACekQ-aUXHRblkNffRsSLlTb2fuF152XbuYwx5RUvhB8cdxlYmlK27DEIq21v7W6t/w240-h320/20200805_124808.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mineralogy Museum<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">The oldest university building was impressive. It was actually built in the Gothic style in the 1500s. You know how many American universities have neo-Gothic architecture? They all want to look like this building.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYNOgYO6o2ASFxqCqpJg976vmODk2idmMmHxJgg_lADTCWYZ6rrkkS_8DKGhit-gW5HOZKhmBXqAhY1wFfCglwC9jrxEClOxJ8lg1-GDDKb0ZwMPhEJifh1W6q6qhqpqa6jxOD4w/s2048/Marburg+Uni+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1942" data-original-width="2048" height="486" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYNOgYO6o2ASFxqCqpJg976vmODk2idmMmHxJgg_lADTCWYZ6rrkkS_8DKGhit-gW5HOZKhmBXqAhY1wFfCglwC9jrxEClOxJ8lg1-GDDKb0ZwMPhEJifh1W6q6qhqpqa6jxOD4w/w513-h486/Marburg+Uni+1.jpg" width="513" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkZ9Ft1c8_zVc2lqfXnMnlUp9SQk-8wwXXOhrVzPN7r5mhTIqA78O7kj6T4sJc-7WGJeBrDNxaZed-SFGyyvm06iAtO1tly72C2Hes1_3QSa46FharaP0Xv0Sr1YhEF0o0SD1WDw/s2048/Marburg+Uni+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1640" data-original-width="2048" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkZ9Ft1c8_zVc2lqfXnMnlUp9SQk-8wwXXOhrVzPN7r5mhTIqA78O7kj6T4sJc-7WGJeBrDNxaZed-SFGyyvm06iAtO1tly72C2Hes1_3QSa46FharaP0Xv0Sr1YhEF0o0SD1WDw/w512-h410/Marburg+Uni+2.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">One last mention of the Brothers Grimm. Throughout the city, there is a trail with stations presenting sculptures that represent the stories that the Brothers Grimm collected. As we took a short cut through the old botanical garden, we stopped by a pond that had a fountain merrily splashing away. The picturesque pond had lily pads, and on the lily pads, small fuzzy birds with long legs were skipping from one to the other, peeping as they went. It turned out that the mommy and daddy birds were on shore, while the kids amused themselves in the water. Floating on the pond was a silver fish. The fish represents the Grimms' tale of the fisherman and his wife. The fisherman caught the fish, who granted wishes for the fisherman's wife. She wished herself into a palace because she wanted to live like the emperor, and then decided that it would be better to live like the pope, made the wish, and ended up back in the fisherman's hut. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg798JuyTazlGp26uCqdd68eJumh_lj_FsjuyY9AQvSezajLdKYUHdoqNRpMfGfi3Lm1yy7yF5YdA-QtvC0xYw1ByEG9mpIxfN-eyOLGSeEhk5sI42nGFiJ5AW9XlyglcP3R6l20w/s2048/Marburg+Grimms+Fisherman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1475" data-original-width="2048" height="369" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg798JuyTazlGp26uCqdd68eJumh_lj_FsjuyY9AQvSezajLdKYUHdoqNRpMfGfi3Lm1yy7yF5YdA-QtvC0xYw1ByEG9mpIxfN-eyOLGSeEhk5sI42nGFiJ5AW9XlyglcP3R6l20w/w512-h369/Marburg+Grimms+Fisherman.jpg" width="512" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-44288546348143266052020-07-21T21:55:00.002+02:002020-07-21T21:55:22.349+02:00The Margravial Opera House (you know, the other one)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Bayreuth is known for its opera houses, among other things (see <a href="https://cardinaltrees.blogspot.com/2016/10/" target="_blank">our blog from 2016</a>). Of course, there is the Festspielhaus that Richard Wagner had built on the hill overlooking Bayreuth. But then there is the other one, the one in the middle of town.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmDzaOLeNHLfnSdcJbHbs9_tLWZp_FkazVdWpYRTCQsLUFb9LNJBbNHWxOz-9w7NwWmRTkge9Cle5eTiejsRW0-Ythh0l-JwhyHRdwr7jgSLPOpGwFbxpG3HsEi7WeqWUuLt6o/s1600/DSC04923.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="881" data-original-width="1600" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmDzaOLeNHLfnSdcJbHbs9_tLWZp_FkazVdWpYRTCQsLUFb9LNJBbNHWxOz-9w7NwWmRTkge9Cle5eTiejsRW0-Ythh0l-JwhyHRdwr7jgSLPOpGwFbxpG3HsEi7WeqWUuLt6o/s320/DSC04923.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXuxJZ31f32fKx8W7hEf_KJXLnWN58CNL5BCfEdoOpjVufOQVstpjRWpCAxyUucEw3i5QN7pTbvtjH0Mj8D-KBv9d8RrdQvrxmCwyL8PbygPuc5XVydGvmiL2ohSVI5P1p9GzC/s1600/DSC04926.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXuxJZ31f32fKx8W7hEf_KJXLnWN58CNL5BCfEdoOpjVufOQVstpjRWpCAxyUucEw3i5QN7pTbvtjH0Mj8D-KBv9d8RrdQvrxmCwyL8PbygPuc5XVydGvmiL2ohSVI5P1p9GzC/s320/DSC04926.JPG" width="320" /></a>It is called the Margravial Opera House, and it is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The advantage of World Heritage Sites is that there is a lot of information on the historical significance of the site. In this case, the UNESCO committee stated that "Today it survives as the only entirely preserved example of court opera house architecture where Baroque court opera culture and acoustics can be authentically experienced. The attributes carrying Outstanding Universal Value are its location in the original 18th century public urban space; the 18th century Baroque façade; the original 18th century roof structure spanning 25 meters; the internal layout and design of the ceremonial foyer, tiered loge theatre and stage area including all existing original materials and decoration."<br />
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Like a lot of the impressive things in Bayreuth, it is the result of the marriage between the Margrave Friedrich von Brandenburg-Kulmbach and Wilhelmine of Prussia. Wilhelmine was the favorite sister of Frederich the Great, and Wilhelmine and Frederick did much to transform Bayreuth into a royal residence. Friedrich Alexander can be seen in many statues around Erlangen, because he established the Regional University in Bayreuth in 1742, which was moved one year later, in 1743, to Erlangen, where it continues to this day.<br />
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The couple had one child, Elisabeth Friederike Sophie, who was married on September 26, 1748 to Karl Eugen, Duke of Württemberg. Such an important marriage must be celebrated over several weeks an in settings appropriate to the occasion. So the mother of the bride started to build an opera house two years before the wedding.<br />
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Two years is a very short time to build an opera house of any kind. It helped that the inside of the Margravial Opera House is made of wood. Everything you see is painted wood. Beautifully painted wood. Painted by<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-30331324805056051552019-12-01T14:00:00.000+01:002020-07-21T21:52:58.476+02:00Koenigstein fortress<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8UUFL5-xmF1_UWwyZbJ3O0OD7YMPMD29df5tM2FGktX0hAr-QqnxcTXD49okHFtTjIXN5M8Y93a-S0C72SGiI6dJcIQFITzO5ufadJLJB9RLHg4_F_n7mfjaqnPCSZ_1qoRtK/s1600/DSC06346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8UUFL5-xmF1_UWwyZbJ3O0OD7YMPMD29df5tM2FGktX0hAr-QqnxcTXD49okHFtTjIXN5M8Y93a-S0C72SGiI6dJcIQFITzO5ufadJLJB9RLHg4_F_n7mfjaqnPCSZ_1qoRtK/s320/DSC06346.JPG" width="320" /></a>On a hilltop in the sandstone mountains of Saxony, in a region called the Sächsische Schweiz (Saxon Switzerland, even though it's in Germany and not Switzerland), there is a hilltop fortress called Königstein. A literal translation of the name would be King's Stone, but the meaning is closer to "King's rocky hill". The king referred to in the name could have been King Wenceslas I, who was king of Bohemia from 1230 until 1253. Königstein passed to subsequent kings, and the Holy Roman Emperor, Karl VI, who was also king of Bohemia, stayed at Königstein in 1359. In 1408, the castle was captured by Margrave of Meissen. The principality of Meissen merged with the Duchy of Saxe-Wittenberg in 1423, and joined the Saxon electorate (electors of the Holy Roman Emporer).<br />
The hilltop had a castle until the 30-year war, when castles became obsolete due to technological advances in cannons. Since the 30-year war, Königstein has been a fortress on the hilltop. Saxon princes have considered Königstein unconquerable, so they have retreated to it from Wittenberg and later Dresden during times of crisis, and they have deposited the state treasure and many works of art from the famous Zwinger in Dresden here.<br />
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The photo of the outside wall of Königstein show why it was so formidable. The mesa already had rock spires, which are seen as the dark stone in the photo. Prince-Elector Christian I of Saxony had stone added to that in order to create the walls that are visible from miles away.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5pzwNFST4HLEz3rEyvrbZtDKY4wEfH4dB4ja-6efu4xU4GIW2fnAk9xM59geI-ofSQxjGzuklzs8Zh_jYdSewa_23KreSnHBRfeuPaTz6Z-u83DcWPR_3wQHMvqFON8aoPcWp/s1600/DSC06366.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5pzwNFST4HLEz3rEyvrbZtDKY4wEfH4dB4ja-6efu4xU4GIW2fnAk9xM59geI-ofSQxjGzuklzs8Zh_jYdSewa_23KreSnHBRfeuPaTz6Z-u83DcWPR_3wQHMvqFON8aoPcWp/s320/DSC06366.JPG" width="213" /></a><br />
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The entrance to the fortress is heavily guarded, of course. After passing through a gateway in the outer wall, a steep wooden drawbridge leads up to the entrance to the castle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihhRDjXXbhCwpD6mYfbgD7PH5AN9kPvMlmIPF1LLwLnDfDAFZUiZuO2Bvc9PxmzsIuBA9zHFm3mOB2ClclW67KR2A73N3E1nryRaJZwWxoM6Kxyg7uNu9xJ9WeRgp_5Yo1giCC/s1600/DSC06370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihhRDjXXbhCwpD6mYfbgD7PH5AN9kPvMlmIPF1LLwLnDfDAFZUiZuO2Bvc9PxmzsIuBA9zHFm3mOB2ClclW67KR2A73N3E1nryRaJZwWxoM6Kxyg7uNu9xJ9WeRgp_5Yo1giCC/s320/DSC06370.JPG" width="213" /></a>The entrance to the castle is a steep tunnel with multiple traps laid along the way up. At the top of the tunnel is a wench used for helping the horses and men to pull the heavy supply wagons up the incline. Four or five wagons per day delivered supplies for not only the soldiers but also their families who lived in the fortress too. There were also the prisons to care for.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimW5JMYUo679kSQSUBcYm0mmqPr17P-pbUZyeVe62OQvxI7nxsAogNW8qhGWUvedVDvTFIpJMN75cKMK-UMEUYyVh0SEQ1FEht7K4zVSyQ7loov5g6uHsm5ly43z58LVjzvt_D/s1600/Standortplan_K%25C3%25B6nigstein.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="1200" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimW5JMYUo679kSQSUBcYm0mmqPr17P-pbUZyeVe62OQvxI7nxsAogNW8qhGWUvedVDvTFIpJMN75cKMK-UMEUYyVh0SEQ1FEht7K4zVSyQ7loov5g6uHsm5ly43z58LVjzvt_D/s320/Standortplan_K%25C3%25B6nigstein.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
After entering the fortress, it is obvious that a small town once was here. There is a bakery and a garden, there is a church and a parade grounds, and in Magdelene's Castle there was the enormous Königstein Wine Barrel (Königsteiner Weinfass), which held 66,000 gallons, making it the largest wine barrel in the world.<br />
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The Schatzhaus (treasure hause) held barrels of money in its vaults. Each barrel weighed 185 kg (over 400 lbs), and they were moved on rails. There is a story in the Schatzhaus about the Au<br />
stro-Prussian war in 1866. Dresden belonged to the Austrian-lead part of Germany, and the Prussians invaded Dresden on the 18th of June. A couple hours before the Prussian army reached the treasury in Dresden, 200 barrels along with bars of gold and silver were loaded on to a train and send to Königstein. (In the end, Prussia won the war, which is why Austria is a separate country today).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPNTqlC-O0ooFe3dI1Ww7zmSyfDh7cHfZb1PwmH4pPH2rO68evjVY434iB7flBMzeIa7UkhEjpF-_9PCFnW0k3nOxVy3G71HvRvl9KSW0BpKhzJxlY136SRJmLszqGJ28_pX4e/s1600/DSC06422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPNTqlC-O0ooFe3dI1Ww7zmSyfDh7cHfZb1PwmH4pPH2rO68evjVY434iB7flBMzeIa7UkhEjpF-_9PCFnW0k3nOxVy3G71HvRvl9KSW0BpKhzJxlY136SRJmLszqGJ28_pX4e/s320/DSC06422.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Hl9-JER7xj0BrFK9wThoeliHQDUUvcbG9haT506ET-73W8hKv_2dYgaRP-pTA1C1lNidhN3txSlymEFKh4aZPD9-fqUDmddKJTDlx2_BMKgHoHuI8UFXqTGbn_386bnMdbwx/s1600/DSC06406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Hl9-JER7xj0BrFK9wThoeliHQDUUvcbG9haT506ET-73W8hKv_2dYgaRP-pTA1C1lNidhN3txSlymEFKh4aZPD9-fqUDmddKJTDlx2_BMKgHoHuI8UFXqTGbn_386bnMdbwx/s320/DSC06406.JPG" width="213" /></a>There are beautiful views from every part of the fortress walls. On one corner is a fancy lookout tower called the Friedrichsburg. It was originally a simple lookout tower called Christiansburg when it was built in 1589. On the ground floor was the guard room, and the upper floor was small saloon for royal functions. On August 12th, 1675, Johann Georg II, the Elector of Saxony, gave a party for an English ambassador, William Swan. The <a href="https://blog.festung-koenigstein.de/geschichte-vom-pagenbett/" target="_blank">event</a> nearly turned deadly for one of the pages, Heinrich Carl von Grunau, who after too much wine crawled through an arrow slit and fell onto a narrow ledge in the cliff face. He stayed there until morning, sound asleep. When the party finally broke up at dawn, a young nobleman from Denmark, Knut Jarthen, noticed the sleeper on the cliff edge. An alarm went through the entire fortress, and even Johann Georg was soon at the site of the sleeping page on the ledge. The electoral prince ordered quiet and had ropes lowered for retrieving the page. When he was safe within the fortress again, the prince had the trumpets and drums sounded. The Prince Elector decreed that the ledge should henceforth be called the Pagenbett (page's bed).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq07rXOOJvE3xI8HLlavjzgcjyKV9exSnT9e1n90FObevHtW3z_oFNFj1RoARp7BLAqanRONRhDnGLCo-xjc47KnpycW2Nv6q6FVZPbKwrFmrA4XJZX-a_dvvzPLXZJoFmTx1y/s1600/K%25C3%25B6nigstein-Pagenbett.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="722" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq07rXOOJvE3xI8HLlavjzgcjyKV9exSnT9e1n90FObevHtW3z_oFNFj1RoARp7BLAqanRONRhDnGLCo-xjc47KnpycW2Nv6q6FVZPbKwrFmrA4XJZX-a_dvvzPLXZJoFmTx1y/s320/K%25C3%25B6nigstein-Pagenbett.jpg" width="265" /></a>A contemporary illustration of the event is historically significant for its portrayal of the people present. </div>
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We too part in an evening tour, given by a guide named Schließkapitän (Gunnery Captain) <a href="http://festung-koenigstein.ticketfritz.de/Event/Kalender/278/863?Typ=Vorlage" target="_blank">Clemens</a>, who was dressed in period costume. He had lots of interesting stories about life in the fortress, its dangers (e.g. lightning strikes, wagon transport up the tunnel, drowning in water cisterns) and its pleasures (e.g. vegetable gardens, bakery), along with its military aspects (the jail for spies, the military training for the boys). He ended the tour in the Friedrichsburg, where an eight-sided table sat in the middle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg38U7S1Tyy9LKg2kwMze-dqC-733XVyb-2K6dl8AGx3zEi7h87eKKbXNCjym5b982TMqqCD-W2G8ISs2Cd4a9n43SUVqZ9pDwHY55z3jXyF5vdONFv9b_-Q6ST9XViauo8br03/s1600/DSC06440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg38U7S1Tyy9LKg2kwMze-dqC-733XVyb-2K6dl8AGx3zEi7h87eKKbXNCjym5b982TMqqCD-W2G8ISs2Cd4a9n43SUVqZ9pDwHY55z3jXyF5vdONFv9b_-Q6ST9XViauo8br03/s320/DSC06440.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
He invited us all to have a seat around the large table, which was installed by August der Starke (August the Strong) in 1731, when he made the Friedrichsburg fancier with a barock stairway and a "mechanized table“.<br />
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Then Clemens said told us the tale of August, who would impress his guests with the magic words, "Tischlein deck dich" (Table, set yourself). When Clemens said the words, the boards in the well in the middle of the table opened up, and a table the size of the hole came slowly up through the floor. It was decked out with Saxon wine and orange juice, complete with a nice centerpiece.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3e-yTfI9tMVgd-jlyycwO2F4_g9ppaWUDFhg7uaqJ_Kbm3GxTO-Y6I6_5aldC3jXWZSYm_SCdLHb7RRxIzodNhFzOgrhTNPCr1-7H5apYoU55pBWZiO6MwiJO9K1-H6nVWBea/s1600/DSC06443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3e-yTfI9tMVgd-jlyycwO2F4_g9ppaWUDFhg7uaqJ_Kbm3GxTO-Y6I6_5aldC3jXWZSYm_SCdLHb7RRxIzodNhFzOgrhTNPCr1-7H5apYoU55pBWZiO6MwiJO9K1-H6nVWBea/s320/DSC06443.JPG" width="320" /></a>The phrase "Tischlein deck dich" was used by August was probably known to all of his guests due to the fairy tale called "<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wishing-Table,_the_Gold-Ass,_and_the_Cudgel_in_the_Sack" target="_blank">The Wishing-Table, the Gold-Ass, and the Cudgel in the Sack</a>", as recorded by the Brothers Grimm. It's the story of a tailor and his three sons, and their adventures involving a table that decks itself with the finest food and wine, a donkey that poops gold, and a club that beats bad guys.<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-11592084146789318552019-11-03T13:55:00.001+01:002019-11-10T13:14:06.090+01:00Creglingen - medieval charm and rustic food, November 2019<div dir="ltr" trbidi="on">
We had a long weekend due to the All Saints Day holiday on Friday, so on Saturday we borrowed a friend's car and took a ride in the country. The weather was cool and started out cloudy and a bit wet, and the trees on the hillsides were dressed in fall colors of mostly yellow and dull orange, with some green left over. As we drove further west, the sun came out. We drove about an hour and a half west past Bad Windsheim and Rothenburg ob der Tauber until we got to Creglingen.<br />
<a href="https://goo.gl/maps/nGoo7oiv6DaKVPBYA">https://goo.gl/maps/nGoo7oiv6DaKVPBYA</a><br />
It's a small place on the Romantic Road that runs south from Wuerzburg. Our goal was to spend the day in a quiet little town with some cultural attraction.<br />
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We found it just outside of town in a little church built in 1389 called Herrgottskirche (the church of our lord God). Inside is one of the most important works by the late Gothic sculptor Tillman Riemenschneider.<br />
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Sometime between 1490 and 1510, Riemenschneider built a wooden altarpiece depicting the assumption of Mary into heaven. It was the first time that the assumption was the main subject in an altarpiece; previously the assumption had been depicted only in illustrations of books. The shrine sits on a stone altar, which sits on the spot where a farmer is said to have found an intact communion host while plowing his field. (An open arch into the stone base of the altar allows a view of the dirt where the host was found.)<br />
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The center of the shrine shows Mary being lifted by five angels into heaven. She is surrounded by the twelve apostles. The faces are very expressive, especially St. James the Elder, shown in the front row on the right.<br />
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Around the center, the altarpiece shows the seven joys of Mary:<br />
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<li>The Visitation, in the upper left panel</li>
<li>The Annunciation, in the lower left panel</li>
<li>The Nativity of Jesus, in the upper right panel</li>
<li>The Presentation at the temple, in the lower right panel</li>
<li>The Adoration of the Magi, in the lower left predella </li>
<li>The finding in the temple, in the lower right predella</li>
<li>The Coronation of the Virgin in superstructure</li>
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All are masterpieces. Richard especially likes the annunciation, with the archangel Gabriel floating in from the left, and Mary twisting her head away from her book to greet him. And what is that vase doing on the floor?<br />
The superstructure has a depiction of Mary being crowned by two angels, with God the Father and Jesus at her sides.<br />
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Along the bottom in the right niche of the predella is the scene of the twelve-year-old Jesus teaching in the temple. The scribe on the right is said to be a self-portrait of Riemenschneider.<br />
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There are more treasures in this little church. Richard especially likes the fresco of St. Christopher on the wall in the chancel.<br />
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The outside of the Gothic church had some intriguing features. The stone face below is definitely from an earlier era, judging by its primitive style. It could belong to the Romanesque style from the 9th century, when the pagan days were in the not-so-distant past.<br />
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In addition to the carved altar piece, the church also had 3 brightly painted altars from the late middle ages (1490-1510). <br />
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By the time we found the church (which was not yet open), we had been on the road for more than an hour and a half, our breakfast was about 5 hours in the past, and Kathy was very hungry. Across the road were a thimble museum and a small, homey restaurant that advertised that they welcomed bikers, complete with a small motorcycle mounted on top of the wall around the terrace. When we walked in, a tall, tattooed man in a black T-shirt with brush-cut hair, a couple of earrings and a bluetooth headset in his ear, was the only occupant of the small dining room, but we smelled cigarette smoke. Turns out that behind the door to the back room, designated as a smoking room, the place was full of regulars. He took our order, offering a choice of potato soup with sausage, or a goulash soup, which means a type of spicy beef stew (no macaroni), accompanied by sour dough bread. Two shallow, blue enamel bowls with matching enamel spoons arrived on the table, and the stew came out in a matching covered, enamel pot with a cover and a ladle. Besides the homey, attractive presentation, it hit the spot! This café probably gets some tourist business because of the church, because the woman who brought out the food spoke a bit of English. There were also funny signs in English posted around the walls, along with Bavarian and Wuerttemberg memorabilia. <br />
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This witty sign was posted inside, next to the door. "He is not drunk who from the floor/ Can rise again and drink some more; / But he is drunk who prostrate lies / And cannot drink and cannot rise"</div>
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On the way to Creglingen, we went through the small town of Detwang, <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/rYNgWubKcA5dg6ee8">https://goo.gl/maps/rYNgWubKcA5dg6ee8</a>, which also claimed to have a Riemenschneider altar. An old water wheel was prominent at the road side. We were following the course of the Tauber river, and countless signs indicated old mills, including oil mills and grain mills.<br />
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Detwang's Riemenschneider altar was in a small church, seen below, but visiting hours were only on Sunday after the 10:00 service so we didn't get to see it. The old church itself was surrounded by a wall with a gate tower. Relatively recent gravestones surrounded the church. Remember that grave plots in Germany are reused throughout the centuries, with the bones of past occupants removed and stored somewhere else in ossuaries on sacred ground, while the recently deceased are buried in the plots leased by new families, or even the same family for centuries or decades.<br />
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In Creglingen, along the river, this figure was holding court. Kathy is sure that the artist intended her to be a cheerful representation of a harvest goddess. Her breasts were equipped with pipes that would have sprayed water into the basin surrounding her. </div>
Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com097993 Creglingen, Germany49.4714813 10.02998700000000649.3063673 9.7072635000000052 49.6365953 10.352710500000006tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-64910782598161100652019-05-17T14:44:00.000+02:002019-05-17T15:25:13.798+02:00Leipzig: Battles and Bach<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
October 2017<br />
We have an additional holiday in Germany this year, 2017; one that comes along once every half a millennium. The 500th anniversary of the Martin Luther pinning his 95 theses to the church door in Wittemberg is on October 31st, which falls on a Tuesday. And the 1st of November is a holiday every year, so we took vacation on the Monday before that to make a five-day weekend. We were already in <a href="http://cardinaltrees.blogspot.de/2017/10/wittenberg.html" target="_blank">Wittenberg</a> earlier this year, so we decided to visit Leipzig for the first time.<br />
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Today is October 30, which is nearly the 204th anniversary of the Battle of the Nations, so we went to see the monument.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-FBR_VsXAjk3o838j_ONpPkbfGtrwFie8Y6Ocr34Z1nm-gieudguqxcQjAPi1OXKHsDG4RFOpw_bVVQmPoInMj-j9uQlo_fLgWhjYtbWIvO8nGKN5_ZKFoIb11_bOUrMrPfT/s1600/Battle_of_Leipzig_11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="669" data-original-width="1024" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7-FBR_VsXAjk3o838j_ONpPkbfGtrwFie8Y6Ocr34Z1nm-gieudguqxcQjAPi1OXKHsDG4RFOpw_bVVQmPoInMj-j9uQlo_fLgWhjYtbWIvO8nGKN5_ZKFoIb11_bOUrMrPfT/s320/Battle_of_Leipzig_11.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
The Monument to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Leipzig" target="_blank">Battle of the Nations</a> (called Völkerschlacht bei Leipzig in German) commemorates the battle between Napoleon and a coalition armies from Russia, Prussia, Austria, and Sweden, fought from the 16th to the 19th of October in 1813, in which Napoleon was decisively defeated for the first time in battle. Napoleon's defeat was the beginning of his downfall, because it forced him to return to France, and the Coalition invaded France early the next year, resulting in Napoleon's abdication and exile to Elba in May 1814.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOHqrNJ3kDzS7L4VTt5oiBu7OI0VGEa0TBlZRamkbZG2v9a8cb6ft1xF3ZWD5rTYsPlGUsEcJaaIyvH9BKwU1DZ_YaNFJ37PFELrDrsnx_InmSNkceknta0R8klfm-QAXDk-DC/s1600/DSC02733.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOHqrNJ3kDzS7L4VTt5oiBu7OI0VGEa0TBlZRamkbZG2v9a8cb6ft1xF3ZWD5rTYsPlGUsEcJaaIyvH9BKwU1DZ_YaNFJ37PFELrDrsnx_InmSNkceknta0R8klfm-QAXDk-DC/s320/DSC02733.JPG" width="320" /></a>A half-million soldiers battled at this site near Leipzig for the political future of Europe in the bloodiest battle of the 1800s.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Model of monument</td></tr>
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A monument to the victory was erected on the site of battle. It was constructed by Bruno Schmitz and finished in 1913 in time for the 100th anniversary. The monument is really a huge building, as shown in this model of the monument's cross section. It is 300-ft high made from 26,500 granite blocks, and roughly pyramidal in shape. In front is a reflecting pool, which represents the tears of the mourning people. (It was being renovated when we were there.)<br />
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You can climb through spiral staircases and narrow passages inside the monument up to the top of the highest dome.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB127wK0QhRCyQ34Kf2vMInvW52ppWVpgsLGTHIB6TEWWSSo4JI7B8uLdodIArnUBEUBh-iGa3HTcX1ObzGXKTPejISiH316n-yBobGa0u_bmqa4Tf1XM10NlQXzTfWkX2TO_2/s1600/DSC02672.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB127wK0QhRCyQ34Kf2vMInvW52ppWVpgsLGTHIB6TEWWSSo4JI7B8uLdodIArnUBEUBh-iGa3HTcX1ObzGXKTPejISiH316n-yBobGa0u_bmqa4Tf1XM10NlQXzTfWkX2TO_2/s320/DSC02672.JPG" width="213" /></a>You enter the monument at the very bottom, underneath the relief of the archangel Michael.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUohxemzdd503iDr6pcW6NOqAp577ntwOBfRBnk3ospliyl5p5uvp5x36a1I7jfb6WJVrqV21Tdm7Zt6maM6-gf-kabU8mMW-duK8VGgT15UBVWYn36jP7Ty7SqdnJ8ZPRYPgK/s1600/DSC02735.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUohxemzdd503iDr6pcW6NOqAp577ntwOBfRBnk3ospliyl5p5uvp5x36a1I7jfb6WJVrqV21Tdm7Zt6maM6-gf-kabU8mMW-duK8VGgT15UBVWYn36jP7Ty7SqdnJ8ZPRYPgK/s320/DSC02735.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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and then climb up through the base into the crypt, in which there are eight large statues of fallen warriors, each one next to two smaller statues called the Totenwächter (Guardians of the Dead).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIhW937ftsD1ALrn0_8KWQkpPaJkGF7_Z25KJL4OmuuQ5uPCCjCmNYlAyrFspEk-KW0pPn9aBwhxC47u2By3jVZxldsXBImc_GVa42X1vFRAXPAGo8w7g7qZiPa2mO_xZV5kzd/s1600/DSC02693.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIhW937ftsD1ALrn0_8KWQkpPaJkGF7_Z25KJL4OmuuQ5uPCCjCmNYlAyrFspEk-KW0pPn9aBwhxC47u2By3jVZxldsXBImc_GVa42X1vFRAXPAGo8w7g7qZiPa2mO_xZV5kzd/s320/DSC02693.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guardians of the Dead</td></tr>
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The statues of the monument were sculpted by Christian Behrens and his apprentice Franz Metzner, who finished the remaining statues after Behrens's death in 1905. The style seems to be Jungendstil (art nouveau), most obviously in the semi-circular stained-glass windows and frames.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKmgHBFAhGSGiBDuV6NwpKwUzV3zORYZMbc9A2lWBBdFINm0sIJfNuuVyxyot-PVfewvQKAHeA9-ebH2jNoSZhlx6DfjPIkhveVkSGsDdfFuJvvHtOOj0Pv-ABFQKfeT-5vc9b/s1600/DSC02691.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKmgHBFAhGSGiBDuV6NwpKwUzV3zORYZMbc9A2lWBBdFINm0sIJfNuuVyxyot-PVfewvQKAHeA9-ebH2jNoSZhlx6DfjPIkhveVkSGsDdfFuJvvHtOOj0Pv-ABFQKfeT-5vc9b/s320/DSC02691.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Willingness to Sacrifice</td></tr>
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On the second story are four statues, each one over 30-ft tall, representing the four legendary historic qualities ascribed to the German people: Bravery, Steadfast Belief, Willingness to Sacrifice, and Ethnic Strength. (I think I got 3 of the 4 correctly <a href="http://monicasheets.com/artwork/stimmen-der-ruhmeshalle/" target="_blank">labeled</a>.) Metzner used the Colossi of Memnon as a model for the statues.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7P2eKB0b3Okk2dIAOinxrVZ2MulzHs18Nu0GH_if60Cw3wkpBqgQoo08t-Y9ksYX7Nafg5ujmRK5JLgWYoTVlji0zQj5NmXJFCZf8sZHgcnrZHTNZFQSrBDYxzDurLsgvjDng/s1600/DSC02700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7P2eKB0b3Okk2dIAOinxrVZ2MulzHs18Nu0GH_if60Cw3wkpBqgQoo08t-Y9ksYX7Nafg5ujmRK5JLgWYoTVlji0zQj5NmXJFCZf8sZHgcnrZHTNZFQSrBDYxzDurLsgvjDng/s320/DSC02700.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steadfast Belief</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqPxZ07j0Nj279EKu_As0syWdOc2DbjwA3EawfNoWoI_RzzHadBFlQXb4m1wNQIuSXGxSqp1awg_Xd8LshP7E7ZfyUUeCAK1SobrNCbPnWKjSNNLSLu_5fz7lgLhlnauEllti/s1600/DSC02713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVqPxZ07j0Nj279EKu_As0syWdOc2DbjwA3EawfNoWoI_RzzHadBFlQXb4m1wNQIuSXGxSqp1awg_Xd8LshP7E7ZfyUUeCAK1SobrNCbPnWKjSNNLSLu_5fz7lgLhlnauEllti/s320/DSC02713.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ethnic Strength</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4t0ORei3eg10w3C_uFwbUE7b7dcyJqRaEfEnuzkCu-IGpKzfV4QsGnH0gRbLotvgvEfduhGfJBt673ipAonKVL57rLaj1l_79Wn16WhIZGGz0mwoBCephkfh8Ypwn83ljl9l/s1600/DSC02674.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL4t0ORei3eg10w3C_uFwbUE7b7dcyJqRaEfEnuzkCu-IGpKzfV4QsGnH0gRbLotvgvEfduhGfJBt673ipAonKVL57rLaj1l_79Wn16WhIZGGz0mwoBCephkfh8Ypwn83ljl9l/s320/DSC02674.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
At the top are 12 knights, who are the <a href="http://stadt-leipzig.htwk-leipzig.de/voelkerschlachtdenkmal/index.php/Symbole.html" target="_blank">protectors</a> of freedom. (There are also 324 reliefs of knights on the inside surface of the dome.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsxh9GnqqUso2k7MW9LxqrGqsO3daUKxG771R26HoyAalnDvCGCtnVkMX-3OUoyQ0aqUt0TDI-JK0YQES1WFWncPZutVukHx3pujLPK7UJnT6MlX7xeEja84tAPSULd-6SR8JO/s1600/DSC02718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsxh9GnqqUso2k7MW9LxqrGqsO3daUKxG771R26HoyAalnDvCGCtnVkMX-3OUoyQ0aqUt0TDI-JK0YQES1WFWncPZutVukHx3pujLPK7UJnT6MlX7xeEja84tAPSULd-6SR8JO/s320/DSC02718.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
In one wing of the monument is a museum about the battle. The museum has weapons, uniforms, equipment, pictures, and personal keepsakes. I especially enjoyed the 15 square-meter (about 150 square-feet) model with its 3000 figures. It describes the strategies and troop movements throughout the battle.<br />
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Leipzig has a huge musical tradition. Johann Sebastien Bach was appointed the Cantor of the Thomasschule at the Thomaskirche (St. Thomas Church) in Leipzig, from 1723 until his death in 1750. During this time he was also responsible for providing music to the Nikolaikirche (St. Nicholas Church) in Leipzig. Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy was named conductor of the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra in 1835, and he remained in Leipzig until his death in 1847. He also founded the Leipzig Conservatory. Robert Schumann went to Leipzig in 1830 at the age of 20 to take piano lessons from his old master Friedrich Wieck, and in 1831 he began a study of music theory under Heinrich Dorn, the conductor of the Leipzig Opera. In 1844 he left Leipzig for Dresden. But in the intervening years he jointly founded Die Neue Zeitschrift für Musik ("New Journal for Music"), married Clara Wieck (the daughter of his old master), and composed many works (including 150 piano lieder in 1840 alone). Richard Wagner was born in Leipzig in 1813.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAzakLVu6mkvZFJZDCIzQBwVt5Mtu2yI4vDKCqznTht1rRGqau5dwbU0-V6d2hvQaU2be1HmATeRlWiy7wgm0Rhr-AnWz8V4S_ZFNCbpVUA_Smoe3F5lswfVm_u6Zk1x7I1PL/s1600/DSC02508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAzakLVu6mkvZFJZDCIzQBwVt5Mtu2yI4vDKCqznTht1rRGqau5dwbU0-V6d2hvQaU2be1HmATeRlWiy7wgm0Rhr-AnWz8V4S_ZFNCbpVUA_Smoe3F5lswfVm_u6Zk1x7I1PL/s320/DSC02508.JPG" width="213" /></a>We went to the Bach Museum and Archive, which is near the Thomaskirche and the statue of Bach. It is a really good museum that has a nice collection of artifacts including musical manuscripts, letters, portraits, and historical instruments, including the organ console from St. John’s Church in Leipzig, which was played by Bach. The Archive has a research institute and a library, and one of its missions is to find lost works by Bach. As recent as 2005, an unknown composition by Johann Sebastian Bach was discovered by a classical music scholar and researcher at Leipzig's Bach Archive. An aria dated October 1713, when Bach was 28, was found in a box of birthday cards in the Anna Amalia Library in Weimar. The archive verified the piece as the work of Bach using various techniques described in the museum. There is an especially interesting exhibit on identifying Bach's handwriting, which changed over time as it does for all of us. His handwriting was different for his quick sketches than his neat final documents. Researchers also know what kind of ink he used and on which kind of paper he wrote.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmTN-pqbHbXZRkeVVU8maUb0L-T7RMpvKeXdk6MIkrH1Zk051oLsxjmHEu-K7sXZMS_7AwooS_3UiU_B_X-mmRK84P1T9UZ5Q2UcAHU-3LltsbwRFbhUnWpXrWFsPoH_DrnvC/s1600/DSC02572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmTN-pqbHbXZRkeVVU8maUb0L-T7RMpvKeXdk6MIkrH1Zk051oLsxjmHEu-K7sXZMS_7AwooS_3UiU_B_X-mmRK84P1T9UZ5Q2UcAHU-3LltsbwRFbhUnWpXrWFsPoH_DrnvC/s320/DSC02572.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of Bach's Family Tree</td></tr>
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There was an interesting display on Bach's family and the many generations of musicians. Bach created the family tree himself, and so he is listed in the second column from the right in this photo. Not all of Bach's 20 children ( 7 with Maria Barbara Bach, who died in 1720, and 13 more with his second wife Anna Magdalena Wilcke) are listed; only the musically gifted ones! Bach started his family tree with his great-great grandfather, Hans Bach, who was the father of Veit Bach, "a white-bread baker", who in turn was the father of Johannes Bach I "der Spielmann" (the player). He at first was a baker, but became the first professional musician of the family when he became a piper.<br />
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Bach is buried across the street from the museum in the Thomaskirche, where there is also a portrait of him in one of the stained-glass windows.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statue of Felix Mendelssohn Bartoldy</td></tr>
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In front of the Thomaskirche is a statue of Felix Mendelsohn Bartoldy, who supported the church's Thomanerchor (the boys' choir founded in 1212) along with the opera and other musical institutions in Leipzig. We visited the Mendelssohn House, a museum in the house where Mendelssohn lived and died.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfuWx0_cnFukcUdyPwgX9GTUQM3_U9DOqh8aYqn5Wa6B0MejtOnrrjZdf4riHM7f0vqhvcZVoohKmtYvyqNiF3TyzvJnbwHb0JHchmATbZPxZxQw_kdDrHyn7eTYWtDpFYS5Q9/s1600/DSC02664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1066" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfuWx0_cnFukcUdyPwgX9GTUQM3_U9DOqh8aYqn5Wa6B0MejtOnrrjZdf4riHM7f0vqhvcZVoohKmtYvyqNiF3TyzvJnbwHb0JHchmATbZPxZxQw_kdDrHyn7eTYWtDpFYS5Q9/s320/DSC02664.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mendelssohn's study with busts of Bach and Goethe</td></tr>
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0Leipzig, Germany51.3396955 12.37307469999996151.022287 11.727628199999961 51.657104 13.018521199999961tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-66077081097803272692019-05-17T13:58:00.003+02:002019-05-17T14:07:44.324+02:00Naumburg Cathedral: Mysterious Master Sculptor<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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There is a new World Heritage Site north of us in Thuringen (Thuringia). Last year, UNESCO added the Cathedral at Naumburg to its list of World Heritage sites.<br />
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Naumburg Cathedral is known for its architecture, sculptures and images, and according to the supporting scientists, it is "<a href="http://www.naumburg-cathedral.de/res/supporting-scientists.pdf" target="_blank">a unique testimony to medieval art and liturgy. The harmonic connection between architecture,</a><br />
<a href="http://www.naumburg-cathedral.de/res/supporting-scientists.pdf" target="_blank">sculpture and stained glass windows in the west choir of the cathedral counts among</a><br />
<a href="http://www.naumburg-cathedral.de/res/supporting-scientists.pdf" target="_blank">the most impressive creations of human creativity in the Middle Ages at large.</a>″<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnb0A3bJ0bSE-L-zOg_BetaudC5jd3cqdQ2S704esyj90jc3jLrmD7N_y3-7xHHwb8XVD18YESmvDin8xTB8NPtVp7nPTFi9alUxk2quF3Iz5g-LPA5nxq-8HgA0xQGmWDCGmZ/s1600/DSC04493.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnb0A3bJ0bSE-L-zOg_BetaudC5jd3cqdQ2S704esyj90jc3jLrmD7N_y3-7xHHwb8XVD18YESmvDin8xTB8NPtVp7nPTFi9alUxk2quF3Iz5g-LPA5nxq-8HgA0xQGmWDCGmZ/s320/DSC04493.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">East Choir Screen</td></tr>
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When Naumburg was nominated to the UNESCO list, the documents said that the choir screens were especially worth preserving.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBEfw1p41dLZNtWuRiAheVRjWZk6v2Q3-heJg-tuj5fZKep2eaoNCxr3Nn11KTBQAqi0_YUhiyJNHU204BjXak3lrJGT-rXUQ22wzoAmVyXBGqQMYnaCkDrnQO2bbtiic0_N5/s1600/DSC04504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPBEfw1p41dLZNtWuRiAheVRjWZk6v2Q3-heJg-tuj5fZKep2eaoNCxr3Nn11KTBQAqi0_YUhiyJNHU204BjXak3lrJGT-rXUQ22wzoAmVyXBGqQMYnaCkDrnQO2bbtiic0_N5/s320/DSC04504.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">West Choir Screen</td></tr>
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"<a href="https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1470/documents/" target="_blank">It is the only Cathedral illustrating in two almost completely preserved choir screen structures from the first half of the 13th century the profound changes in religious practice, perception, and in the reflection of nature and in science observation in the figurative arts. The workshop organization of sculptors and stonemasons which was likely established in the early 13th century and is known under the name of the “Naumburg Master” constitutes one of the decisive conveyors and pioneers of the ground-breaking innovations in architecture and sculpture of the Late Hohenstaufen period in the 2nd</a> <a href="file:///C:/Users/Trewin/Downloads/1470rev-2288-Nomination%20Text-en.pdf" target="_blank">half of the 13th century that were first developed at Reims Cathedral and have been lost in other places. The quality of the Naumburg Master’s work has since justified Naumburg’s reputation far beyond its region.</a>"<br />
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The screen of the east choir is late Romanesque, and the screen of the west choir is Gothic. The interior of the west choir and its screen were the work of the Naumburg Master, so-called because nobody today knows his name. But his artwork is among the most important of the European Middle Ages. He and his workshop traveled across Europe from Reims around 1225, to Metz in the Holy Roman Empire, and around 1230 he was in Mainz to work on the Cathedral. From there he traveled to Naumburg and worked from about 1245-1250 until construction was finished in 1257. Everywhere the Naumburg Master worked he left behind recognizable art. Other famous Gothic artists, like <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilman_Riemenschneider" target="_blank">Tilman Riemenschneider</a>, who lived later and worked around 1500, produced wonderful, but stylized, figures (<a href="https://cardinaltrees.blogspot.com/2019/04/easter-in-munich-2019.html" target="_blank">see our blog</a>). His wooden statue of St. Elisabeth in the <a href="https://cardinaltrees.blogspot.com/2019/05/neuenburg-castle.html" target="_blank">Neuenburg Castle</a> (see our blog) is very beautiful and also stylized. But the Master of Naumburg made very realistic sculptures in the mid 1200s.<br />
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The reliefs along the top of the west screen are more like statues; they are carved from one piece of stone. They depict scenes from the passion of Christ. At the passage through the west screen is a statue of Christ crucified. On the sides of the passage are statues of Mary and John. The statue of St. John is especially expressive, as you can see in the photo.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcipVl8VyaP8jNjiQazLWO0-sj1W7o3mtTjbvgND2HttoXjdyWV9xqFYCIW3ws-vgfgCd_g-LC-oQB0dpSl-IJbGi-8wS6mjDAzPv6__6ecz-EV0xo8ZLghyeq6-X_nqHF3y6/s1600/DSC04510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzcipVl8VyaP8jNjiQazLWO0-sj1W7o3mtTjbvgND2HttoXjdyWV9xqFYCIW3ws-vgfgCd_g-LC-oQB0dpSl-IJbGi-8wS6mjDAzPv6__6ecz-EV0xo8ZLghyeq6-X_nqHF3y6/s320/DSC04510.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scenes from the passion of Christ</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvTTqQxxkBg-OKwceyHIo33LX9cTGkCDkRuN6sEsvLskzAd0Bts5b6t_XS-l07QLyReLzViJxtZRi30_6jD8nsgZJe92nHR3zM_bggCSQs32avnJBLoVLmm8D-8feTFt9HVH9/s1600/DSC04524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCNCnf0NtNSSFJQksOsEDjQZGCjoKqwx1h2D23Sgv8q1dZ-Sp1HxSV3Z7WNE6TRf22Cugj1plf7e9iUR7Eb-LWgCSj8Pjv2K20BoW7kMyUPSjAJP0uVq8PVZNuWdlhX3gW9Oba/s1600/DSC04512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCNCnf0NtNSSFJQksOsEDjQZGCjoKqwx1h2D23Sgv8q1dZ-Sp1HxSV3Z7WNE6TRf22Cugj1plf7e9iUR7Eb-LWgCSj8Pjv2K20BoW7kMyUPSjAJP0uVq8PVZNuWdlhX3gW9Oba/s200/DSC04512.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. John on right side of passage</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWT6ua9zQZN6n9uUHrjF7Y8MBLUbvfdd15wTfRiRxywuZkdbgldm34S49eTDWgoyXeB9Bou7ABui1v5Dv-lfnwIJ8L3qqn-vSY5Vxz7KeA5jEGoinGs96an_ipII-DmPpa5ChJ/s1600/DSC04509.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWT6ua9zQZN6n9uUHrjF7Y8MBLUbvfdd15wTfRiRxywuZkdbgldm34S49eTDWgoyXeB9Bou7ABui1v5Dv-lfnwIJ8L3qqn-vSY5Vxz7KeA5jEGoinGs96an_ipII-DmPpa5ChJ/s320/DSC04509.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrance to west choir</td></tr>
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Inside the west choir are the twelve monumental donor portraits that are considered his masterpieces. The most famous are the statues of Uta and her husband Ekkehard II of Meissen (today the city where the first porcelain was produced in Germany). Legend has it that the figure of Uta, with her high collar and medieval head covering, was an inspiration for the Disney portrayal of the evil queen in Snow White.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoY50-XQXSQTDjud8P2EKgkqiP50A4_GtnzwDHSRtSetRCWdM3EJOz3nbEacM7cSjaqK9d99vKwmNmbNcPM69-fU2eafW-4z-Q0sokuAL3v2c8L34YAqHHyFhQnJ0-KTDYJdO2/s1600/DSC04525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoY50-XQXSQTDjud8P2EKgkqiP50A4_GtnzwDHSRtSetRCWdM3EJOz3nbEacM7cSjaqK9d99vKwmNmbNcPM69-fU2eafW-4z-Q0sokuAL3v2c8L34YAqHHyFhQnJ0-KTDYJdO2/s320/DSC04525.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">West choir screen from inside the choir </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvTTqQxxkBg-OKwceyHIo33LX9cTGkCDkRuN6sEsvLskzAd0Bts5b6t_XS-l07QLyReLzViJxtZRi30_6jD8nsgZJe92nHR3zM_bggCSQs32avnJBLoVLmm8D-8feTFt9HVH9/s1600/DSC04524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIvTTqQxxkBg-OKwceyHIo33LX9cTGkCDkRuN6sEsvLskzAd0Bts5b6t_XS-l07QLyReLzViJxtZRi30_6jD8nsgZJe92nHR3zM_bggCSQs32avnJBLoVLmm8D-8feTFt9HVH9/s320/DSC04524.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ekkehard II and Uta</td></tr>
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Most churches, however old they are, no longer have choir, or "rood", screens. The "rood" refers to the cross that was typically depicted on the congregation side of the screen. Choir screens were meant to hide the altar from the lay person's view, making the ceremony of the mass even more mysterious. After the council of Trent ended in 1563, they were removed from Catholic churches as part of the Counter-Reformation. It is amazing that these screens survived. It is probably due in part to the neglect that churches suffered under the East German communist regime that such architecture survived.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxCd4PomsHW7yNy6Cjw3XZ-7gw-Y3kaqFlJ1TWh2EQ7t9GIqTf9IkCSNqK-u_bqCHMi4kB4p-G6_jZyHeeJS92vhiCGLLMvWvEysIbRLSNLASzAP0pqu6kaByb_4nUTQZk9glr/s1600/DSC04466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxCd4PomsHW7yNy6Cjw3XZ-7gw-Y3kaqFlJ1TWh2EQ7t9GIqTf9IkCSNqK-u_bqCHMi4kB4p-G6_jZyHeeJS92vhiCGLLMvWvEysIbRLSNLASzAP0pqu6kaByb_4nUTQZk9glr/s320/DSC04466.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
Underneath the late-Romanesque nave is a high-Romanesque crypt, which<br />
"<a href="https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1470/documents/" target="_blank">is characterised by its high-quality architectural decoration. The palmette cushion capitals rank among the most beautiful examples of their kind in the Central European area. With the High Romanesque crucifix placed on the well preserved Godehard altar of the crypt (3rd quarter of the 12th century) an impressive furnishing piece complements the built Romanesque structure</a>".<br />
The crypt represents the oldest stone structure on the site.<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0Naumburg, Germany51.1520283 11.81424540000000450.9926183 11.491521900000004 51.3114383 12.136968900000005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-64902808733780429432019-05-12T17:07:00.000+02:002019-05-17T14:09:05.541+02:00Neuenburg Castle: one of the largest in Central Germany, the Wartburg's big brother<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://cardinaltrees.blogspot.com/2009/04/poets-and-thinkers.html" target="_blank">Wartburg Castle</a> is very well known. Our blog from 2009 describes the connection with my favorite medieval Minnesinger (troubadour), Wolfram von Eschenbach; St. Elisabeth of Thuringen, who was brought to the Wartburg from Hungary when she was four years old; and most famous of all, Martin Luther, who translated the Bible into German there.<br />
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Not as well known is the Neuenburg Castle. It and the Wartburg were built by the same person, a Frankish Count called Ludwig der Springer (Louis the Jumper), at about the same time, around 1090. In spite of its obscurity, the supporting scientists writing about Naumburg Cathedral also found Neuenburg Castle worthy of the designation World Heritage Site.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihse2zpss2VsEsloNRAfzmjhhyphenhyphengCyBlktX_CKptinLRTD0venI8MO_BgijGOUl85uIb5HmP2ZCSNJ-ddqyTLWtIJspWxnFnEoAprtPNHy5RPV66p2VPlZj1pZJMZLHXphKxnWV/s1600/DSC04675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1048" data-original-width="1600" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihse2zpss2VsEsloNRAfzmjhhyphenhyphengCyBlktX_CKptinLRTD0venI8MO_BgijGOUl85uIb5HmP2ZCSNJ-ddqyTLWtIJspWxnFnEoAprtPNHy5RPV66p2VPlZj1pZJMZLHXphKxnWV/s320/DSC04675.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
"<a href="http://www.naumburg-cathedral.de/res/supporting-scientists.pdf" target="_blank">Of the highest significance for the chivalric and courtly cultures of this time is</a> <a href="http://www.naumburg-cathedral.de/res/supporting-scientists.pdf" target="_blank">Neuenburg Castle established by the landgraves of Thuringia. It counts among the</a> <a href="http://www.naumburg-cathedral.de/res/supporting-scientists.pdf" target="_blank">greatest Romanesque Castle complexes worldwide and preserves one of the most</a> <a href="http://www.naumburg-cathedral.de/res/supporting-scientists.pdf" target="_blank">impressive spiritual testimonies to the life of Saint Elisabeth of Thuringia with its</a><br />
<a href="http://www.naumburg-cathedral.de/res/supporting-scientists.pdf" target="_blank">exceptional two-storey chapel.</a>"<br />
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By the year 1100, Neuenburg Castle was the largest and most important fortification in central Germany. Still today, sections of the curtain walls in the north and east, part of the gate, the part of the castle on the lower part of the slope, and trenches in the east and in the south are open to visitors. The landmark is the castle keep, called "Dicker Wilhelm" (fat William), which today is outside of the castle on the high ground. It is visible from far away as a symbol of power.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm_TuuhVooA4ZXz_q0uX44lKQQYqVz9HI-PBwOdHFeKXia7qyxAHxa1GXd01p82qYYvoeVmWMqgs39XpVRDr74T-_G9kDsY7Rvm_MX0apoOW_UQnMFEcn7Uq_GUix8Od0yRo_m/s1600/DSC04784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm_TuuhVooA4ZXz_q0uX44lKQQYqVz9HI-PBwOdHFeKXia7qyxAHxa1GXd01p82qYYvoeVmWMqgs39XpVRDr74T-_G9kDsY7Rvm_MX0apoOW_UQnMFEcn7Uq_GUix8Od0yRo_m/s200/DSC04784.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dicker Wilhelm</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncI1kWf1EQT6ywBGT6uMPMqTfATsqAfV-seIfAL7l9uvqKhc7g_R8OA9lF1cYLU11Ha9Ba8N3eTWRe_Odm-WSRZkEKHg4Zb_Q2t94NJLt5LcvpV4110WIuax1SuAEH3xNZHTU/s1600/DSC04681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhncI1kWf1EQT6ywBGT6uMPMqTfATsqAfV-seIfAL7l9uvqKhc7g_R8OA9lF1cYLU11Ha9Ba8N3eTWRe_Odm-WSRZkEKHg4Zb_Q2t94NJLt5LcvpV4110WIuax1SuAEH3xNZHTU/s320/DSC04681.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Visitor's entrance to the castle</td></tr>
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The original castle was built in the Romanesque style, and the best evidence of that is the chapel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi845oUJj_JPhjXxU_Cx8KNNdpxH-3aakjxUWHLhyxLVrg7Uzh6NMHxbr1q5vzeJ16pW0hx8os9Qy-Qoxyz10kFCUCxFh6IwTP5SVYDByFqlPNNQKsNdcD-uMJ-IYBjq0uRj2IX/s1600/DSC04688.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi845oUJj_JPhjXxU_Cx8KNNdpxH-3aakjxUWHLhyxLVrg7Uzh6NMHxbr1q5vzeJ16pW0hx8os9Qy-Qoxyz10kFCUCxFh6IwTP5SVYDByFqlPNNQKsNdcD-uMJ-IYBjq0uRj2IX/s320/DSC04688.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
"<a href="https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1470/documents/" target="_blank">the Chapel of Neuenburg displays the distinctive fusion of the Rhenanian and Saxon artistic styles as a masterpiece of the courtly art, strongly connected with the life of Saint Elisabeth of Thuringia</a>"<br />
The chapel has two stories. The ground floor was for the peasants, and the upper floor for the nobles.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCLDMXvwjl-l946kZCc4N4LAi_z_kcDiM7s51-iiDMBvlQrX4X4s9EJMoTwmzJX-279m8x7PeMwPx704vhBPK4VufqYwr4POOZ8fBr01EQL4QjrCNM2cc8JuF-EiFJgrRGVWG9/s1600/DSC04728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCLDMXvwjl-l946kZCc4N4LAi_z_kcDiM7s51-iiDMBvlQrX4X4s9EJMoTwmzJX-279m8x7PeMwPx704vhBPK4VufqYwr4POOZ8fBr01EQL4QjrCNM2cc8JuF-EiFJgrRGVWG9/s320/DSC04728.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper floor of the chapel</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSeZfgAXQGeeOO_PvCz_UuuiluNWKB4yCANm-rIhHM4FFwoYGd7GeTxh-IvunLTpKcbPGgcWY-AWaRfhTr5ok-Rat-4j5ulFwOAyl8iLAhNGPRRtkplIEbDbZ4jR3FLurDi7f1/s1600/DSC04690.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSeZfgAXQGeeOO_PvCz_UuuiluNWKB4yCANm-rIhHM4FFwoYGd7GeTxh-IvunLTpKcbPGgcWY-AWaRfhTr5ok-Rat-4j5ulFwOAyl8iLAhNGPRRtkplIEbDbZ4jR3FLurDi7f1/s200/DSC04690.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ground floor of the chapel</td></tr>
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The ground floor has an opening in the ceiling. That opening met the liturgical requirements that the peasants have a view of the room with the altar and can hear the priest. The upper floor is very fancy, except for the hole in the floor. The four impressive columns in the middle of the room get their dark color from the carboniferous limestone of which they are made.<br />
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Outside of the entrance to the upper floor is a statue of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elizabeth_of_Hungary" target="_blank">St. Elisabeth</a>. This is the same woman we talked about in out blog "<a href="https://cardinaltrees.blogspot.com/2009/04/poets-and-thinkers.html" target="_blank">Poets and Thinkers</a>". She was brought to the Wartburg when she was four years old, and married Ludwig IV, the Landgrave of Thuringia, when she was 14 and he was 20. After her husband's death when she was 20, and just a few weeks before the birth of her third child, Gertrude, she sent her children away and regained her dowry. She used the money to build a hospital in Marburg where she herself served the sick. In 1224 or 1225 she visited Neuenburg and is said to have cured a sick man.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsELqsKAB9NwQwhgntPZBlygF5RDs2ATtiIiTJOzwTFE6xaWHwjBhdiYqmiLLNAhlZ04U6mH9G8Gq5bXE_JNW7cM2xgVDlhmMK4RTzNUs34o9NHNhzmiPtsU1dmVTDgLy8D73A/s1600/DSC04744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsELqsKAB9NwQwhgntPZBlygF5RDs2ATtiIiTJOzwTFE6xaWHwjBhdiYqmiLLNAhlZ04U6mH9G8Gq5bXE_JNW7cM2xgVDlhmMK4RTzNUs34o9NHNhzmiPtsU1dmVTDgLy8D73A/s320/DSC04744.JPG" width="320" /></a>Neuenburg Castle was a popular place. Emperor <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederick_I,_Holy_Roman_Emperor" target="_blank">Friedrich Barbarossa</a> visited Neuenburg Castle in 1172, and the legend of the “living wall” of soldiers providing the best military defense was born. The most important poets of the 13th century, namely <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wolfram_von_Eschenbach" target="_blank">Wolfram von Eschenbach</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walther_von_der_Vogelweide" target="_blank">Walther von der Vogelweide</a>, also stayed at Neuenburg Castle. And this is where <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heinrich_von_Veldeke" target="_blank">Heinrich von Weldecke</a>, who was an inspiration to <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hartmann_von_Aue" target="_blank">Hartmann von Aue</a> and <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gottfried_von_Strassburg" target="_blank">Gottfried von Straßburg</a>, completed his AEneas novel, which was the first courtly romance in a Germanic language.<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com075305 Neuenbürg, Germany48.8465473 8.588548199999991148.7629168 8.4271866999999911 48.930177799999996 8.749909699999991tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-70283919009017713492019-05-11T18:21:00.001+02:002019-05-17T14:06:04.477+02:00Goseck and Nebra: prehistoric astronomy<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We rented a car in order to get into the countryside north of Naumburg and visit some remote prehistoric sites. The first was Goseck and the second was Nebra. The significance of these sites goes back to prehistoric times, and both are associated with ancient astronomers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiToJlNX0r4xp68kFIzWEmBKRaKZZ03FBw-9EdkuwX1No5iXLw8D3Idxi1X6-_AB1mIfFwBlP9kFBvV-rbgB6RHRsoJSQu3581AQg4-Z4unNbEo9Z1UkzAuS25xiwssyGRAvHDx/s1600/DSC04617.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiToJlNX0r4xp68kFIzWEmBKRaKZZ03FBw-9EdkuwX1No5iXLw8D3Idxi1X6-_AB1mIfFwBlP9kFBvV-rbgB6RHRsoJSQu3581AQg4-Z4unNbEo9Z1UkzAuS25xiwssyGRAvHDx/s320/DSC04617.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
At Goseck, a 6900-year-old astronomical site was uncovered, similar to Stonehenge (some call it Goseck Henge), but much older and made of wood instead of stone. (Stonehenge was built from 3000 BC to 2000 BC, and Goseck Henge in 4900 BC). Goseck Henge is the oldest solar calendar in the world, and much older than the oldest of the Egyptian pyramids, which was built from 2630–2610 BC.<br />
Like Stonehenge, Goseck Henge consisted of a circular earth bank and ditch surrounding a palisade. The palisade at Goseck Henge is a double row of wooden posts. (Because trees can be dated precisely, the age of Goseck Henge is known very accurately). The palisade was reconstructed using oak posts and ancient methods after an archaeological dig in 2002-2004 uncovered the whole site.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtSPB8D3YiUzeWg2Eg2dUimYnmh04zEkZl6Rh89-CU1Wv4f3y2WnHWGfwBW4VvO-hW0iuDo-i2WKsUKEpJnSfIHnHdEDTsha7Z0K0wWSKcU505bB_UUArYl7Su1FvpyEC_BADv/s1600/DSC04642.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtSPB8D3YiUzeWg2Eg2dUimYnmh04zEkZl6Rh89-CU1Wv4f3y2WnHWGfwBW4VvO-hW0iuDo-i2WKsUKEpJnSfIHnHdEDTsha7Z0K0wWSKcU505bB_UUArYl7Su1FvpyEC_BADv/s200/DSC04642.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBqftTaNkb44gE6EtrVpP3v_yLoiUu5H4BLCZ0SHrTidfUX489iz9oPYoarNiIT8Pjo83BY6aS-L-yH2beIp7zV7-zAWPJQDn-oKD-gz2YT6fxUMn3IIzLO9GEv9fLm8tu1_c/s1600/DSC04640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIBqftTaNkb44gE6EtrVpP3v_yLoiUu5H4BLCZ0SHrTidfUX489iz9oPYoarNiIT8Pjo83BY6aS-L-yH2beIp7zV7-zAWPJQDn-oKD-gz2YT6fxUMn3IIzLO9GEv9fLm8tu1_c/s200/DSC04640.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhssgCSpuPxQEwd2xaXHBy1vGcCmIkwd60EAQ3M1jSpGp51xFQr1ZXBDdC1bLHddm6xdWobjH_SGvjj1_YCwoPeFfSjGIDaZtyInetk8KzabLf6QIO58qtXQ9Es_E1ohdveIL-p/s1600/DSC04633.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhssgCSpuPxQEwd2xaXHBy1vGcCmIkwd60EAQ3M1jSpGp51xFQr1ZXBDdC1bLHddm6xdWobjH_SGvjj1_YCwoPeFfSjGIDaZtyInetk8KzabLf6QIO58qtXQ9Es_E1ohdveIL-p/s320/DSC04633.JPG" width="320" /></a>We walked into the middle of the reconstructed henge. The ditch is 220 feet in diameter, and it has causeways and openings in the palisade at locations to mark important astronomical events. The largest causeways in the southeast and southwest mark the winter solstice sunrise and sunset. Another, smaller, pair of gaps in the northeast and northwest of the palisade mark the summer solstice. A small gap in the palisade south of the spring solstice is said to indicate the time to celebrate the spring feast of Beltane, around May 1. There is yet another opening and causeway on the northern side, but its significance is not known. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj83GYyBSCjCwtCUw5Up2OxOfvCGoZF0jQFmd7-naITgPv1P98NfYAGwmM-t5fmCu-nJHDOtVALDY59HET3xKcE5FBwviKWwgMTkgxT5oA_HUQqemHJIg43KswO_ks16njah-jx/s1600/DSC04630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1051" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj83GYyBSCjCwtCUw5Up2OxOfvCGoZF0jQFmd7-naITgPv1P98NfYAGwmM-t5fmCu-nJHDOtVALDY59HET3xKcE5FBwviKWwgMTkgxT5oA_HUQqemHJIg43KswO_ks16njah-jx/s320/DSC04630.JPG" width="210" /></a></div>
Goseck Henge was built by people of the culture that is now known as the “Stroke-Ornamented Ware Culture”, after the way they decorated their pottery. The builders left behind buried skeletons, human and animal bones, ox skulls and ritual fires around the site. These remains suggest that burial rituals or human sacrifice was part of the culture.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf6GCiA6uFRzqgJde4OA6qbRtxQl7vHhGcZ1XAACSYydqkdHbaRrPeX2UW5NWCj8TJayUTwiDwd452NAVZGJM84wCyvfwXzghIyyMTZRrjp5yU6PNqvA6hSem5LEkoIaU6Xqa2/s1600/DSC04624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf6GCiA6uFRzqgJde4OA6qbRtxQl7vHhGcZ1XAACSYydqkdHbaRrPeX2UW5NWCj8TJayUTwiDwd452NAVZGJM84wCyvfwXzghIyyMTZRrjp5yU6PNqvA6hSem5LEkoIaU6Xqa2/s200/DSC04624.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUEsY01CfgRxkxg-K1LM3HTo-LWZ-v2BP5nBmuXiva6LFd95PbPnv0tSddEtKH1fIUjBYKiueSMA1IQNoswzd6O0ChC08YSzWLgFc8F2hYsiS3ek-SZNgnKmKzhichol6MWoEf/s1600/DSC04658.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1559" data-original-width="1600" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUEsY01CfgRxkxg-K1LM3HTo-LWZ-v2BP5nBmuXiva6LFd95PbPnv0tSddEtKH1fIUjBYKiueSMA1IQNoswzd6O0ChC08YSzWLgFc8F2hYsiS3ek-SZNgnKmKzhichol6MWoEf/s320/DSC04658.JPG" width="320" /></a>Only 15 miles away near the town of Nebra, the oldest depiction of the cosmos ever found was unearthed on the top of Mittelberg hill in the Ziegelroda Forest. It is called the Sky Disk of Nebra, and it is a bronze disk measuring 32 centimeters (about a foot) in diameter. It dates from 1600 BC, so it is 3000 years younger than Goseck Henge, and slightly younger than the last of the great pyramids in Egypt. It depicts a crescent moon, a circle that was probably a full moon, and a cluster of seven stars that probably represents the Pleiades constellation as it appeared 3,600 years ago. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7A8y7oRG35MgAhqVqQkK1HvuIK2VJdgPtr4EtAXCNitgAMlg8mf4qSkHA29nCngO-f6CpCW2bwQvDPFAhVuF3-qqefk0LyWW-bJxD-vYl32jGRLBKXXRq2MNCZ0mzf0dt6Dx/s1600/DSC04631.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1520" data-original-width="1600" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM7A8y7oRG35MgAhqVqQkK1HvuIK2VJdgPtr4EtAXCNitgAMlg8mf4qSkHA29nCngO-f6CpCW2bwQvDPFAhVuF3-qqefk0LyWW-bJxD-vYl32jGRLBKXXRq2MNCZ0mzf0dt6Dx/s320/DSC04631.JPG" width="320" /></a>There is a very good museum close to the site where the Sky Disk of Nebra was found. The museum has a planetarium, and admission to the museum includes a planetarium show. The show is really great; it shows how the Sky Disk could be used for various calculations in the days before printed calendars. For example, the gold arc on the right edge and the outline of another (the gold is missing but the impression remains) on the left edge are geographically and astronomically significant. If the Sky Disk is laid on a picture of the Goseck Henge, the right-hand arc matches the angle between openings in the palisade for the sunrises on the winter and summer solstices. The left-hand arc matches the angle between opening for the sunsets. How else could people recognize the exact solstice day? We can imagine the years of precise observation required to determine that at some point every year, the sun stopped rising, or setting, at the extreme southern end of its range and began to rise further and further north. </div>
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The constellation of the Pleiades, depicted as a cluster of seven stars, is most important in its relation to the moon. On or near the vernal equinox (first day of spring), the Pleiades rises at sunset, and the moon is full; this indicates that it is time to plant crops. This relationship between the constellation and the full moon is shown on the left side of the Sky Disk. Near the autumnal equinox (first day of fall), the Pleiades sets just after sunset, so the moon is a crescent; when this occurs, it's time to harvest crops. This relationship between the constellation and the new moon is shown on the right side of the Sky Disk. So information on both the solstices and both the equinoxes is found in the Sky Disk.</div>
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But there's more. Once every four years on the autumnal equinox, the new moon is very new, and the crescent is very thin. The next year on the autumnal equinox, the crescent is slightly thicker. When the thickness of the crescent gets to the thickness shown in the Sky Disk, it is time to add a 13th lunar month to the year. (a lunar month is 29.531 days, so 12 lunar months is only 354 days) After that, the crescent is again very thin the next year. </div>
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And we're not done yet. There are 32 stars on the disc. When the Moon is added, there are 33 objects in total. Intriguingly, 33 Lunar years are equivalent to 32 Solar years. According to archaeologist Harald Meller, </div>
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<li><a href="https://www.dw.com/en/bronze-age-sky-disc-deciphered/a-1915398" target="_blank">The explanation of the disc's purpose sheds new light on the astronomical knowledge and abilities of the Bronze Age people, who used a combination of solar and lunar calendars as important indicators for agricultural seasons and passage of time."The sensation lies in the fact that the Bronze Age people managed to harmonize the solar and lunar years. We never thought they would have managed that," Meller said. According to astronomer Wolfhard Schlosser of the Ruhr University at Bochum, the Bronze Age sky gazers already knew what the Babylonians would describe only a thousand years later.</a></li>
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It's no wonder that some people thought the Sky Disk must be a forgery. It is way ahead of its time.</div>
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One final observation: there is some art work along the bottom edge of the Sky Disk. This could be “the sun boat”, with numerous oars, carrying the sun across the sky. This symbol was added later, long after the disk was originally made.</div>
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com006667 Goseck, Germany51.1952958 11.87170749999995751.115719799999994 11.710345999999957 51.2748718 12.033068999999957tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-49439491932442719892019-04-22T16:35:00.000+02:002019-05-17T14:27:45.772+02:00Easter in Munich (2019): Bavarian national splendor <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinMn6WQxABpYw_kaWa1t7rUBbg1TD1gYEoTK9zzlgii3NR6fy0nKYmwvK_-We9APaKC9QgLmOmPg-LPrUPtkk1di6p2U2Xz33H7X3A795CqtRZYoWmLqQYqUniqDICgjy_cDqI/s1600/DSC04433.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinMn6WQxABpYw_kaWa1t7rUBbg1TD1gYEoTK9zzlgii3NR6fy0nKYmwvK_-We9APaKC9QgLmOmPg-LPrUPtkk1di6p2U2Xz33H7X3A795CqtRZYoWmLqQYqUniqDICgjy_cDqI/s320/DSC04433.JPG" width="213" /></a>We spent a beautiful day in Munich on Easter Sunday. We spent much of it in the parks of Munich. We had lunch in the Englischer Garten and walked through the east side of the Isar river in the afternoon.<br />
We decided to do something new, and since we had never been in the Bavarian National Museum, we checked it out. You read that right. Bavaria was once an independent nation with its own royal family!<br />
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The museum is built around the collection of the Wittelsbacher family, the pre-eminent noble family in Bavaria. This family was given the kingship of Bavaria when Napoleon rearranged Germany. They were kings up until the last one abdicated during the First World War. One of them, loopy Louis (Ludwig II) built the famous Neuschwanstein castle.<br />
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Many of the beautiful things in the museum reflect how the nobles lived in the good old days, when decadence was good. We saw a room full of ivory carvings. It turns out that ivory turning was an acceptable past-time for the members of the Bavarian royal family.<br />
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Other exhibits covered the exquisite clothes, jewelry and tableware of the days when one dressed and dined to impress. </div>
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The fine embroidery on the white silk dress kept Kathy staring. The necklace consisted of garnets and silver, and the painted stones depicted characters from a masked ball. The silver structure below, a table centerpiece, featured small musician figures in the center surrounded by curtains made of silver lacework. The whole thing was a platform that held the salt and pepper shakers and other seasonings. Can't imagine polishing the thing!</div>
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This beautiful museum emphasizes the decorative arts. The museum has several rooms of sculptures by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilman_Riemenschneider" target="_blank">Tilman Riemenschneider</a>, an artist whose work graces many churches in our region of Franconia. Some were very familiar, and some were bizarre. An example of the latter is the Ascension of Mary Magdalene<span style="font-family: inherit;"> s</span>howing Mary covered only by her own hair. (Click on the pictures to see a larger version)<br />
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The more familiar ones include the 12 Apostles. Most figures have an attribute for the method of martyrdom for each of the them. It seems to me that Judas Iscariot has been replaced by Paul the Apostle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1i65NbjSRPqbMVX3gWufOPGKiAeHSpxEA0mDH517XIoHuLun9c9-mn1iA-0x5b7baPvWwr_xlyZdWR4SnHhv7BI7oyFEo8o0KarG2MHwfBidUnK68DSFcD86GzZfbsZIWfS_E/s1600/DSC04386.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1i65NbjSRPqbMVX3gWufOPGKiAeHSpxEA0mDH517XIoHuLun9c9-mn1iA-0x5b7baPvWwr_xlyZdWR4SnHhv7BI7oyFEo8o0KarG2MHwfBidUnK68DSFcD86GzZfbsZIWfS_E/s320/DSC04386.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Matthew was originally holding a quill (not seen) used for writing the Gospel.<br />
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Four soldiers took Thomas to a nearby hill and speared him.<br />
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Andrew was crucified on an X, which is also where the design of the Scottish flag comes from.<br />
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This one is the easiest. Peter has the keys to heaven, of course.<br />
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This is the tricky one. Paul (not one of the 12 Apostles) is holding a scroll (symbolising the Scriptures).<br />
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Simon the Zealot was sawn in half.<br />
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Philip was crucified upside-down, in deference to Jesus.<br />
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Bartholomew is shown with the knife because he was skinned alive.<br />
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James, son of Zebedee, wears a pilgrim's hat, because he is thought to be buried at Santiago, the great pilgrimage site. He was the brother of John, the Beloved.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwSlgurV9FopwNem5ESZxg_76Fic6xvIPvfEuTkduihg__DRSutsJEgfFk0-Oqy9_G2VNuB4GyXirUV9K60U7juFUzZULN49lBuUPz4V1bVUYC5Uj-HZKOtY_2IaLqPCKUzkn/s1600/DSC04383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdwSlgurV9FopwNem5ESZxg_76Fic6xvIPvfEuTkduihg__DRSutsJEgfFk0-Oqy9_G2VNuB4GyXirUV9K60U7juFUzZULN49lBuUPz4V1bVUYC5Uj-HZKOtY_2IaLqPCKUzkn/s320/DSC04383.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
John, the Beloved, was challenged to drink a cup of poison to demonstrate the power of his faith.<br />
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Jude, or Judas Thaddaeus, should be holding a spear, but it looks more like a club to me, which is sometimes his attribute also.<br />
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James, the Younger and brother of Jesus according to one interpretation of the Gospel of Matthew, has a slim club with a wooden board attached at a right angle to one end used by fullers to clean wool.<br />
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There were also several green men and a couple of wild men.<br />
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These wild men and green men are commonly found in Romanesque churches, the first churches built in stone. The stone churches usually replaced wooden churches that were built by the early missionaries on the same site. The depiction of these pagan figures, which are unique to these early churches, is intriguing. We wonder what these figures imply about the way Christianity was practiced between 800 and 1000 C.E., shortly after Christianity was adopted or forced on the Germanic tribes. What remained of the early pagan beliefs? It seems that the pre-Christian belief systems persisted, because the representation of nature spirits is tacked on to the Christian imagery. The undercurrent of pagan respect for nature is something we notice repeatedly here in Germany, where trees are protected by requiring applications to be filed before they are felled in the season that makes the least impact on the birds that nest in them. Other evidence of this pre-Christian respect for nature is that the fountains in the rocky, water-poor regions to our northeast are cleaned and decorated each year around Easter time with evergreen boughs and painted eggshells.<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0Munich, Germany48.1351253 11.58198049999998647.965637799999996 11.259256999999986 48.3046128 11.904703999999986tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-71071832390862390972018-08-05T11:31:00.000+02:002019-05-17T14:47:54.976+02:00Genoa: amazing architecture<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
While we were in the Cinque Terra in 2018, we took a day trip to Genoa, the capital of the Italian Riviera.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monument to Christopher Columbus in Genua</td></tr>
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We traveled by train to the Genova Piazza Principe train station, which is very close to the old part of town and to most of the sights that we wanted to visit. As soon as we walked out of the train station, we were greeted by a monument to the city's most famous explorer, Christopher Columbus. Yup, Columbus was born and raised in Genoa, a city with a long tradition of sea-fairing.<br />
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Genoa was once an independent Kingdom, from 1005 to 1797, including Corsica from 1347 until 1768. The overlord was officially the Holy Roman Emperor of the German Nation, who was usually absent, and so the Bishop of Genoa was president of the city, but the real power power was in the elected "consuls". Genoa was therefore called one of the "Maritime Republics" (Repubbliche Marinare), along with Venice, Pisa, and Amalfi. Genoa had one of the largest and most powerful navies in the Mediterranean, which was made possible by its trade, shipbuilding and banking.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hall of Mirrors in Palazzo Reale</td></tr>
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Our first stop was at one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, The Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace). Construction started on the present structure in 1618 for the Balbi family, and improvements were made throughout the rest of the seventeenth century. It was sold in 1823 to the Royal House of Savoy, which ruled the Kingdom of Italy from 1861 until 1946. The palace is every bit as fancy as you would expect of a seventeenth-century royal family, complete with its own Hall of Mirrors.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hallway in Palazzo Reale</td></tr>
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The frescoes and paintings are beautiful and fascinating. We especially liked the classical Greek stories, such as the Torture of Prometheus. Prometheus created humanity from clay, and was humanity's protector and benefactor. He defied the gods by stealing fire and giving it to humanity. As punishment, Zeus bound the immortal Prometheus to a rock, and every day an eagle, the emblem of Zeus, was sent to eat Prometheus's liver, which was thought to be the seat of human emotions. His liver would then grow back every night, only to be eaten again the next day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSVHjuc7eAh7wq_lOoG8Bk5JkVD07exeJfYwfmsBAZEzRXMxYi4oqbsH-dExuAwSrESNXWYQT79gIxBk5h9i4NTbVzmiRxIowqe74QE4F-9YGHxU2CtplXYgFx3Opnd599N0im/s1600/DSC03319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSVHjuc7eAh7wq_lOoG8Bk5JkVD07exeJfYwfmsBAZEzRXMxYi4oqbsH-dExuAwSrESNXWYQT79gIxBk5h9i4NTbVzmiRxIowqe74QE4F-9YGHxU2CtplXYgFx3Opnd599N0im/s320/DSC03319.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresco of Prometheus by Giovanni Andrea Carlone <br />
in the Galleria della Cappellain in the Palazzo Reale</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmsgw3-rEzeCBYZCY1FnhrY6Y_fD_q6ghL0QbAB_bR1aiBYRtUvk9J_Ob2ESs5mzKsN2_pBVqCFX2mIcdwmJNSZmJQstznG-v5yq7WJYSse35HBEmpxv5GF5YJdIlgBBpj4fPq/s1600/DSC03317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmsgw3-rEzeCBYZCY1FnhrY6Y_fD_q6ghL0QbAB_bR1aiBYRtUvk9J_Ob2ESs5mzKsN2_pBVqCFX2mIcdwmJNSZmJQstznG-v5yq7WJYSse35HBEmpxv5GF5YJdIlgBBpj4fPq/s320/DSC03317.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hercules defeating Cerberus in the<br />
<span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Galleria della Cappellain in the Palazzo Reale</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF_dOKwUOIG5ZYlymoPS-wbLlDEMDwNny2sJMhSjPAVh3UDi3AMxqnFTbq9X25cWeHBD6QaoP16sGqHBhbnE49yD8gJ6Trgipw2ravTqJc3Sdqj6l5_cP2tdEBwDbEfhCdwkoN/s1600/DSC03314.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF_dOKwUOIG5ZYlymoPS-wbLlDEMDwNny2sJMhSjPAVh3UDi3AMxqnFTbq9X25cWeHBD6QaoP16sGqHBhbnE49yD8gJ6Trgipw2ravTqJc3Sdqj6l5_cP2tdEBwDbEfhCdwkoN/s320/DSC03314.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prometheus Creates Life from Clay</td></tr>
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Every royal palace needs a throne, and Palazzo Reale is no exception<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0CVT1bFegzPPB2a9hWrFpAn4JZXuvnnBFYze2yXmdTHQVz_fNDsYiukvjdF7Oiu-vcxAH4tismiVtxoEfIHnth24le6qI2q6QCVtIgN-OUPsbp-nKm9nR5K9Gx3BBq-AWjrU7/s1600/DSC03324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0CVT1bFegzPPB2a9hWrFpAn4JZXuvnnBFYze2yXmdTHQVz_fNDsYiukvjdF7Oiu-vcxAH4tismiVtxoEfIHnth24le6qI2q6QCVtIgN-OUPsbp-nKm9nR5K9Gx3BBq-AWjrU7/s320/DSC03324.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Throne room in Palazzo Reale</td></tr>
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There was some beautiful inlay woodwork too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOK4PT0ru0MwAVawz5JoqqtFsHslpIcVmlxvbFjjZpU9erkGZDyiRneG30i6tvTa0BFij6TmRSNk4B_9NlghJEnt4fZ4CTlj-3VuQIwhtdhUx2f8sgIAsFnWNZCX8fgBssHkbz/s1600/DSC03343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOK4PT0ru0MwAVawz5JoqqtFsHslpIcVmlxvbFjjZpU9erkGZDyiRneG30i6tvTa0BFij6TmRSNk4B_9NlghJEnt4fZ4CTlj-3VuQIwhtdhUx2f8sgIAsFnWNZCX8fgBssHkbz/s320/DSC03343.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLzSKyTB-JKkfwW6apv6YBe8uNqHfxFIaw924Rp79VRcDEQrszGF3ZJTA5nblaZE6XslQk-NkANT2yV0TQlZLyuzfsY-VzTx597QS0bulsPt9eh5E4t7G-ysdAb2yMv1LM-5J/s1600/DSC03381.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLzSKyTB-JKkfwW6apv6YBe8uNqHfxFIaw924Rp79VRcDEQrszGF3ZJTA5nblaZE6XslQk-NkANT2yV0TQlZLyuzfsY-VzTx597QS0bulsPt9eh5E4t7G-ysdAb2yMv1LM-5J/s320/DSC03381.JPG" width="320" /></a> And a beautiful mosaic around the fountain in the courtyard.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Courtyard of Palazzo Reale</td></tr>
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We went along the shore and saw some indications of Genoa's naval history. The largest Aquarium in Europe is on the left-hand side of this photo.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUeLX3srYYCiKn_GjIJoGY6VgVnUS8ZwpNSX1JwjTwfwhnI_WkqRhalrJw54VF0UyTIVzQH-fcNmHlK_B6r7tAnsiH-Duls5MQH7YoKjlVbDn_U_MGQP2ktnrP5B25BEg-7vfK/s1600/DSC03387.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1073" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUeLX3srYYCiKn_GjIJoGY6VgVnUS8ZwpNSX1JwjTwfwhnI_WkqRhalrJw54VF0UyTIVzQH-fcNmHlK_B6r7tAnsiH-Duls5MQH7YoKjlVbDn_U_MGQP2ktnrP5B25BEg-7vfK/s320/DSC03387.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Bank of Saint George was founded in 1407 and was named after the patron saint of the city. (The Genoese transferred their allegiance from Saint Lawrence to Saint George at some point during the 11th or 12th century, most likely with the rising popularity of the "warrior saint" during the Crusades. ) The bank was located in the Palace of Saint George, which built in 1260 by Guglielmo Boccanegra, uncle of Simone Boccanegra, the first Doge of Genoa.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0UobA2I5RLlCGIRzxWLdNKinhkha4fNFynmeVMq0QQdU3DZZhtOx2HkV1Vhyphenhyphen4U64tLtGbDSa9zTnZP4s5Kh55yhu4dJkOwX9mXFSy_vxy_gXJvHUhYYZxmC-ReVu7N0KmAIa_/s1600/DSC03390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0UobA2I5RLlCGIRzxWLdNKinhkha4fNFynmeVMq0QQdU3DZZhtOx2HkV1Vhyphenhyphen4U64tLtGbDSa9zTnZP4s5Kh55yhu4dJkOwX9mXFSy_vxy_gXJvHUhYYZxmC-ReVu7N0KmAIa_/s320/DSC03390.JPG" width="320" /></a>The bank is among the oldest in the world and the first bank in Europe. It was founded to consolidate the public debt that had grown to finance the war with Venice over trading and financial dominance. Many of Genoa's overseas territories were governed either directly or indirectly by the Bank. In 1453 the Genoa handed over governance of Corsica, the colonies in Crimea and around the Black Sea, and a number of other possessions to Bank officials. Over the course of the fifteenth century, the Republic gradually reclaimed many of its territories from Bank control.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlPsfJ6tljZjfp8PO_fMj9WTcwxQ2cglA6L7dq3aYVb3XxL_6S_JrGsWQfW5DtMPMdzKFJKdfWkcCZMOO9vxSv2ddYomlmMUq2LWR4bSL1EqwIutUQKsw0WbJUmqW-XzupbdI5/s1600/DSC03391.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlPsfJ6tljZjfp8PO_fMj9WTcwxQ2cglA6L7dq3aYVb3XxL_6S_JrGsWQfW5DtMPMdzKFJKdfWkcCZMOO9vxSv2ddYomlmMUq2LWR4bSL1EqwIutUQKsw0WbJUmqW-XzupbdI5/s320/DSC03391.JPG" width="320" /></a>After Napoleon invaded Italy, he suppressed independent banks, and this led to the bank's closure in 1805. Today, the building houses the sea-port authority.<br />
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The cathedral in Genoa is also impressive. It was built between the 12th and 14th centuries with money from the successful enterprises of the Genoese fleets in the Crusades.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLILYtFMzsl3gXSMA2JwMsZrIogO8_0fT2EmmUWJbcJBFPv7vZz5yWPadmz1R9V7IIr11az9cEm13XnMs0nOh4kEVYJbOKx6DX7eP4dxVbhmvyGuVMFXcfRiKU7f0vHDu1tO5j/s1600/DSC03396.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLILYtFMzsl3gXSMA2JwMsZrIogO8_0fT2EmmUWJbcJBFPv7vZz5yWPadmz1R9V7IIr11az9cEm13XnMs0nOh4kEVYJbOKx6DX7eP4dxVbhmvyGuVMFXcfRiKU7f0vHDu1tO5j/s320/DSC03396.JPG" width="213" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJ1n8po4USoazAUq68oBIqh9ucvETQqfqd5ORwN4Gi_ippVxPfztju0XnNrXhiVuY_jv7UkWr52IhyphenhyphenRyzvHXN4kfPD7uLgAHgnMfa18o-yFuwAbeWgHrmiZWW1P-cm3lsAbZw/s1600/DSC03430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOJ1n8po4USoazAUq68oBIqh9ucvETQqfqd5ORwN4Gi_ippVxPfztju0XnNrXhiVuY_jv7UkWr52IhyphenhyphenRyzvHXN4kfPD7uLgAHgnMfa18o-yFuwAbeWgHrmiZWW1P-cm3lsAbZw/s320/DSC03430.JPG" width="213" /> </a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxdE0qf_8gnPKfKENJU1voh4pmn5TQzl5bTatdm7gVGV29CpV03INP-xLHEq7q_gcSp5rT10U-CaEsxm0LdPmO2xwsZ2ydMO29DRrhF8bFfCuwY7HRFe5fZy0FKCvdDM64-v1s/s1600/DSC03429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxdE0qf_8gnPKfKENJU1voh4pmn5TQzl5bTatdm7gVGV29CpV03INP-xLHEq7q_gcSp5rT10U-CaEsxm0LdPmO2xwsZ2ydMO29DRrhF8bFfCuwY7HRFe5fZy0FKCvdDM64-v1s/s320/DSC03429.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr3C8NYC34L0nAWbsgKzxabGdoIkymscxTdw0F7cwFHFwsFuaUez8FKRLw7gIhZ163lypeDG0e-jDTYHtBUuOfckOwc9lE_UY6DztPOasSI7yGJa1G3gXc-DIYK7NL_EdEzpbK/s1600/DSC03439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr3C8NYC34L0nAWbsgKzxabGdoIkymscxTdw0F7cwFHFwsFuaUez8FKRLw7gIhZ163lypeDG0e-jDTYHtBUuOfckOwc9lE_UY6DztPOasSI7yGJa1G3gXc-DIYK7NL_EdEzpbK/s320/DSC03439.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6sJFmFQ_hDBQgRqRH9j8r6lNypq4bL44YA-Zmpf5Xkp242D926MgsMDrSpYyTYjbYXjVH2RtrDe68z5oZpxZlf4viGbLrnh0wDvj6M4N9fZ9KsqXcu81MANQorlERfURHKg7k/s1600/Sacro_Catino_Graal.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6sJFmFQ_hDBQgRqRH9j8r6lNypq4bL44YA-Zmpf5Xkp242D926MgsMDrSpYyTYjbYXjVH2RtrDe68z5oZpxZlf4viGbLrnh0wDvj6M4N9fZ9KsqXcu81MANQorlERfURHKg7k/s320/Sacro_Catino_Graal.jpg" width="320" /></a>The Museum of the Treasury lies under the cathedral and holds a collection of jewelery and silverware from 9 AD up to the present. Among the most important pieces are the sacred bowl (it:Sacro Catino) , referred to as the Holy Grail. The source of this belief is Jacopo da Varagine , who recounts in the Genovese Chronicle that, during the first Crusade ( 11th century ), the Genoese soldiers under the command of Guglielmo Embriaco took part in the taking of the city of Caesarea ( 1101 ), coming into possession of what was thought to be the plate of the Last Supper of Jesus.<br />
The basin has a hexagonal vase of bright green transparent material. At the time it was taken to Genoa it was believed to be emerald. After Genoa was conquered by the French under Napoleon Bonaparte in 1806, the dish was brought to Paris, and it was determined that that the dish was made of Byzantine crystal and not an emerald. When it was returned to Genoa on June 14, 1816, it had been broken into 10 pieces, one of which is missing. Since then, it has been the subject of various restorations: the first in 1908, then in 1951, and most recently in 2017. The later studies would confirm that the dish is an Islamic artifact of the ninth or tenth century.<br />
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Every visitor to Genoa has to visit the Piazza De Ferrari and see the fountain there. In the photo behind the fountain is the Palazzo della Nuova Borsa, the new stock exchange.<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0Genoa, Metropolitan City of Genoa, Italy44.4056499 8.946255999999948544.2242774 8.6235324999999481 44.5870224 9.2689794999999489tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-64466114612606395262018-06-17T16:48:00.000+02:002018-06-17T17:22:19.513+02:00The Italian Riviera: the Cinque Terre, May 2018<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The harbor of Vernazza</td></tr>
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After Lucca, we went on to visit the 5 fishing villages of the "Cinque Terre" on the Italian Riviera. These little towns still have some fishermen based in town, but now most of the money comes from tourism. The 5 villages are isolated from each other geographically by cliffs and hills, but there are boat and train connections from village to village. They are technically part of Liguria (main city: Genoa).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6aNSh6opQcfRGyqEXDwQs9xGQ9WvtecCWAOLMCiu-AcSskPFmyC-nsnLK72Si71e4MIeWkf94qxejv7iEyYs_V3Bc65-kOLTHaix_k8Nml0KtRvK9qPWtvJFGDuuHxUMvM1XM/s1600/DSC03231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6aNSh6opQcfRGyqEXDwQs9xGQ9WvtecCWAOLMCiu-AcSskPFmyC-nsnLK72Si71e4MIeWkf94qxejv7iEyYs_V3Bc65-kOLTHaix_k8Nml0KtRvK9qPWtvJFGDuuHxUMvM1XM/s320/DSC03231.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the top of the pic:<br />
Belforte Tower in the Doria castle atop Vernazza</td></tr>
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You can left-click on each picture to see it in a larger version.<br />
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We had great food (pesto and fresh fish) and wine and did short day trips to the other villages. Our apartment was on the main square on the harbor in Vernazza. We could hear the waves of the Mediterranean lapping at the shore. Anchovies are available fresh from the Mediterranean and they are prepared in so many ways to provide a very different experience than anything we were familiar with in the US!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view of the Vernazza harbor. Our apartment was in the house <br />
that is one window wide to the left of the light pink house</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anchovies done right - the local anchovy "pie"</td></tr>
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The weather was sunny but not too hot, because there was always a breeze from the Mediterranean. <br />
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Each town of a few hundred natives is separated from the rest by high hills and cliffs. During the afternoon, Richard took hikes in the hills above the towns where there are little isolated chapels called sanctuaries.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reggio Sanctuary from the trail</td></tr>
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The one above Vernazza is called the Reggio Sanctuary. It is know for a portrait of the Virgin Mary called the Black Madonna, presumably because her garment appears to be black. The church was built in the eleventh century on the ruins of an ancient religious structure. The current building is plain on the outside, but inside it is beautifully decorated. The area around the church is peaceful, and the trees offer plenty of shade after a challenging hike up the hill.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside Reggio Santuary</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A side street in Vernazza</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7aiyaecIZ-ilJYh-VrpybohW3yxdUk9NseYBXylqI2u3HLSnu05-8qITJEAIFHyqxxjZDmTgHhxwwndm19lyVWTTlARtKKZVQCtiCwEkEeJeTIiK_451B8CllCVxn_m1NMvb9iA/s1600/Hillside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7aiyaecIZ-ilJYh-VrpybohW3yxdUk9NseYBXylqI2u3HLSnu05-8qITJEAIFHyqxxjZDmTgHhxwwndm19lyVWTTlARtKKZVQCtiCwEkEeJeTIiK_451B8CllCVxn_m1NMvb9iA/s320/Hillside.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coastal hillside with terraced vineyards</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">view from Winexperience</td></tr>
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Kathy usually stayed around our little apartment that had a view of the harbor and piazza in Vernazza or wandered up and down the only street of the town shopping for groceries or good restaurants. One evening, we went to a balcony overlooking the sea, where a wine-tasting establishment called Winexperience serves some incredible Italian wines (and only Italian wines). The most unusual red wine smelled wonderfully like leather (and Richard detected a hint of saw dust). It tasted great, but he didn't want to drink it all because it smelled so good.<br />
After several whites and reds, we finished with a desert wine called Sciacchetrà, which is made from grapes that are only grown in the Cinque Terre. It was so good that we later found a bottle in town to buy as a souvenir. It is sometimes served with little biscottis called bucellato.<br />
The sommelier, Alessandro, spent time with us explaining each wine, and his enthusiasm was infectious.<br />
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On other afternoons, we took the train or the boat to the other little towns, which were all just as crowded, but each one had their own charm with either more of a beach-and-hotel scene (Monterosso), or a much smaller harbor so that the fishing boats were sitting on part of the town square about 20 feet above the water, having been hauled up there by a crane, as in Manarola!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYQ82E9-fbtT2FP4uREkyBTlEn-rSK9cTZ1cZN82STg_RDhPht5i5kM4fuDblv9xbkVToPHZ3epKyaxmoW9kKCis_FhVedCpxAzhV7svbQHTGDd8LOqt_Yk1heIePOhwcyzQc/s1600/DSC03250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYQ82E9-fbtT2FP4uREkyBTlEn-rSK9cTZ1cZN82STg_RDhPht5i5kM4fuDblv9xbkVToPHZ3epKyaxmoW9kKCis_FhVedCpxAzhV7svbQHTGDd8LOqt_Yk1heIePOhwcyzQc/s320/DSC03250.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">vineyards surrounding Corniglia</td></tr>
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Richard went to another sanctuary one afternoon, this one called Santuario della Madonna delle Grazie (the sanctuary of our lady of graces), and located above Corniglia. The view of town from the path up to the church was beautiful. Corniglia is the only one of the five villages without a harbor. In fact, the town sits on above the cliffs with no river valley leading down to the sea. But the town is a colorful patch in a landscape of vineyards. And the town itself is very charming. It is the smallest of the five villages, and the streets and sidewalks are correspondingly narrow.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZQo51YMAtOF86ZV6OpHtOX4Qk8cRA_E4Y4rYC0BdkTX5JeizOujCR_MzDlkqmMxKaOc5BF2Rj09s6dMg19EDKh3AZF3RqvOzp_vcPONykhoKe_mlt0zVM6Fk3y6AC3z2SbPR/s1600/DSC03259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZQo51YMAtOF86ZV6OpHtOX4Qk8cRA_E4Y4rYC0BdkTX5JeizOujCR_MzDlkqmMxKaOc5BF2Rj09s6dMg19EDKh3AZF3RqvOzp_vcPONykhoKe_mlt0zVM6Fk3y6AC3z2SbPR/s320/DSC03259.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Corniglia</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCq0w_BW_ShJjTxVlkrN8FPjQ_DuPjxIW6brSQ4p44VNLzGLaL2yzBPpJvBz3EEzsogcqEQ8EhkHj808kqNQ-SaPshOEoSmOKYMO3ZBaNB4x0UYADYr3lDjZqQI2lx86qWjp0k/s1600/DSC03262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCq0w_BW_ShJjTxVlkrN8FPjQ_DuPjxIW6brSQ4p44VNLzGLaL2yzBPpJvBz3EEzsogcqEQ8EhkHj808kqNQ-SaPshOEoSmOKYMO3ZBaNB4x0UYADYr3lDjZqQI2lx86qWjp0k/s320/DSC03262.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corniglia from a distance</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monterosso from the sea.</td></tr>
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We took a boat to Monterosso, where the harbor is in the new town. This part of town gives Monterosso a slicker atmosphere. This is the largest of the five villages, and it is where you will find hotels, for example, something hard to come by elsewhere in Cinque Terre. Here is where we found the Oratorio della Confraternita dei Neri Mortis et Orationis, which is roughly translated as the Oratorio (chapel) of the Brotherhood of the Black Death and Prayer. It's not really a church, but rather a chapel and meeting place for an organization that cared for the families of the fishermen who died at sea. Skeletons were everywhere to be seen.<br />
It was also interesting to watch the workers performing the careful restoration of the frescoes as they applied a fine layer of what looked like cheesecloth and plaster to the walls.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oratorio della Confraternita <br />
dei Neri Mortis et Orationis</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Examples of many skeletons in the Oratorio</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old town of Monterosso</td></tr>
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The old part of town is where you find the rustic charm of the Cinque Terre<br />
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Riomaggiore has the most rustic harbor of the villages. It seemed to us to be more a pile of rocks than a harbor, and there is no beach. But it fits in wonderfully with the shear cliffs surrounding it.<br />
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There is a footpath from the harbor of Riomaggiore through a tunnel to the train station and then farther to Manarola. The path between towns is called the Via d'Amore (Lover's Lane) due to the beautiful views.<br />
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Manarola seems to have a little more room than the other villages. Near the harbor there is a small town square (Piazza Capellini) with a mosaic of the local fish and birds. Higher up in the town in front of the Chiesa di San Lorenzo (Church of Saint Lawerence) is another small square with the bell tower overlooking town.<br />
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During the summer season, the villages are populated by a few hundred natives, who in the course of the last couple decades have shared their towns with thousands of tourists daily(!) in a continual stream from May to October. It's like Lake George on July 4th all season long! We don't know how they put up with the constant crowds. We saw some of them on the harbor-front square in front of our apartment in the early daylight hours having coffee and chatting outside the small bar across the plaza. We were glad to have an apartment to retreat to during the most crowded hours when we weren't visiting the other towns ourselves or retreating to the hills. <br />
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CardinalKathttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16340992027479073521noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-75798761843686202952018-06-10T15:57:00.002+02:002021-10-25T14:47:20.693+02:00Lucca, Italy, for fun and profit<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Richard attended a technical conference in Lucca, Italy, for work from May 13th through the 19th this year 2018. He gave a presentation and published a paper.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Richard giving his presentation</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conference participants in the courtyard</td></tr>
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The conference was held at the Real Collegio, a renovated cloister attached to the S. Frediano church. (see bell tower outside of courtyard in the photo.) The old monastery was extensively modified during the 17th century with the addition of two main cloisters. In 1779 the Republic of Lucca decided to use the building as a “university institute”, and Pope Pius VI disposed the S. Frediano community patrimony for the construction of the new institute. In the 19th century, the institute received the name of “Real Collegio Carlo Lodovico” from Charles Louis of Bourbon-Parma, Duke of Lucca, and it remained an educational institution until 1939.<br />
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During the evening on Monday of the conference, a performance was given by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flag_throwing" target="_blank">sbandieratore </a>or bandieraio. These modern-day flag throwers have their origins in the military flag-bearers of past centuries who led troops into battle. The flag throwers had to transfer orders from the leaders to the troops. It was imperative that they not let their flag fall into enemy hands, because this could lead to confusion and defeat. In order to save the flag, they perfected the long, high throw.<br />
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I suspected that there was a military connection already as soon as I heard the accompanying drummers. Just the two large drums alone were terribly loud, and when the dozen or so drums were added, it was as deafening as the loudest rock concert. I was reminded immediately of bag pipes, which also have a military connection.<br />
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On Wednesday of the conference participants were treated to supper at the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palazzo_Pfanner" target="_blank">Palazzo Pfanner</a>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palazzo Pfanner</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statues and fountain in the garden</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main hall of the Palazzo</td></tr>
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The Palazzo as it now with its monumental main stair case was constructed by the Controni family, who bought the Palazzo in 1680.We started with champagne and appetizers in the baroque garden, and then moved to the main hall for dinner, where there are beautiful frescoes painted around the year 1720. In 1845, the Duke of Lucca, Carlo Lodovico di Borbone hired for himself and for the townspeople “a German brewer”. In 1846, Felix Pfanner, a Bavarian brewer, rented the garden and the cellars of the Palazzo from the Controni family in order to become the first beer manufacturer of the Duchy of Lucca and one of the first in Italy. Eventually, Pfanner was able to buy the whole Palazzo from the proceeds, and the Palazzo became the official headquarters of the Pfanner Brewery. The brewery closed in 1929, but the Palazzo is still the property of the Pfanner family, who lives here.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">facade of San Frediano</td></tr>
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After walking by the basilica of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_of_San_Frediano" target="_blank">San Frediano</a> every day on the way to and from the conference, it was time on Friday to take a look inside. The church is famous for the large mosaic on its facade. The church as it is today was consecrated in 1147. A city could only have one baptismal church in the middle ages, but because San Frediano was outside the Roman wall at the time and the cathedral was inside, San Frediano became the second baptismal church of Lucca around the year 1000.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiLuHqjvHyvVwnn6udCV3q5tKoxADXhiea5n-ThP-bx-_zFLncH5JCPpxLi32zzTW1nmZLdLavcvwYiJxd-oUe61Q9Zkh8PeQ5SVOAXjd29SdfMCwORaCqYTb-JLwLMazrnrKw/s1600/DSC03090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiLuHqjvHyvVwnn6udCV3q5tKoxADXhiea5n-ThP-bx-_zFLncH5JCPpxLi32zzTW1nmZLdLavcvwYiJxd-oUe61Q9Zkh8PeQ5SVOAXjd29SdfMCwORaCqYTb-JLwLMazrnrKw/s320/DSC03090.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">baptismal font in San Frediano</td></tr>
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This first thing you notice is a Romanesque baptismal font. It is from around the 12th century, and it depicts the Israelites as knights in armor crossing the Red Sea on horseback. Nope, I don't understand either. Stories of Moses are on the large lower basin, and the small round temple on the lid has the apostles and months of the year.<br />
In a chapel on the left is a fresco of the arrival of the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holy_Face_of_Lucca" target="_blank">Santo Volto</a> (the Holy Face) in the basilica. The fresco cycle commemorates the legend of Nicodemus' sculpting the figure of Jesus in Lebanon cedar. When he completed all but the face, Nicodemus fell asleep, and woke to find the Holy Face completed by an angel. The wooden sculpture was transported to the basilica in the year 742 from Luni, which was a Byzantine possession that had been sacked by Saracens.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsBoV5dX4bCqpFENan6Hh1WWeMqbB8fqxGD4xuWwR6dMAD1IFC1QCk0zA-_6IEk5okivY0IyBUC1ErUK2zuuk5I4t2gR-Nn_TqYa2-UCfzRH1TzvSGKFTqTUE_KDPPPnd7Goxe/s1600/DSC03112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsBoV5dX4bCqpFENan6Hh1WWeMqbB8fqxGD4xuWwR6dMAD1IFC1QCk0zA-_6IEk5okivY0IyBUC1ErUK2zuuk5I4t2gR-Nn_TqYa2-UCfzRH1TzvSGKFTqTUE_KDPPPnd7Goxe/s320/DSC03112.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">freco of the transport of the Santo Volto</td></tr>
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In another chapel is an altar with a Roman sarcophagus containing the body of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_the_Pilgrim" target="_blank">Saint Richard the Pilgrim</a>, an English “king” (of Wessex). Before you ask, "who cares?", there's a spoiler: he is connected to a saint who is famous in our region of Franken. He died in Lucca in 722 while on pilgrimage to Rome. Miracles were reported to have occurred at his tomb, and a cult venerating him developed. His wife, Winna, was the sister of Saint Boniface, who was the Archbishop of Mainz and is the patron saint of Germany.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sarcophagus of Richard the Pilgrim</td></tr>
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Richard and Winna were the parents of Willibald, Bishop of Eichstätt; Saint Winibald, Abbot of Heidenheim; and Walpurga, Abbess of Heidenheim, which are towns not far from here in Franken. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Walpurga" target="_blank">Saint Walpurga</a> became a nun in the double monastery of Heidenheim am Hahnenkamm, which was founded by her other brother, Willibald, who appointed her as his successor. Following his death in 751, she became the abbess. When she died, she was buried at Heidenheim; but in the 870s, Walpurga's remains were transferred to Eichstaett. Her feast day commemorates the transfer of her relics on 1 May. At some point she came to represent the older pagan concept of the Grain Mother. Peasant farmers fashioned her replica in a corn dolly at harvest time and told tales to explain Saint Walpurga's presence in the grain sheaf. Her earliest representation is in the early 11th-century Hitda Codex, made in Cologne, which depicts her holding stylized stalks of grain. The night before her feast day became the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walpurgis_Night" target="_blank">Walpurgis Night</a> mentioned in Goethe's novel "Faust" and in Thomas Mann's "The Magic Mountain" and in Edward Albee's play "Who's Afraid of Virginia Woolf?". It is celebrated in continental folklore with dancing and bonfires to ward off witches and evil spirits.<br />
Our own area has a Walpurgisnacht celebration on a local hill that is nicknamed after Walpurga. The Ehrenbuerg, a table-topped formation east of Forchheim, just north of Erlangen, is always referred to as the Walberla. A small chapel on the hill top is dedicated to Walpurga. On April 30th, people go up on the Walberla, some dressed as devils or witches, and drink and make bonfires, which they dance around until well after midnight on May 1: <a href="https://www.thelocal.de/20140430/why-are-germans-celebrating-on-april-30th-walpurgisnacht" target="_blank">Walpurgisnacht</a>. The local legend relates that St. Walpurga converted the local witches to Christianity and in return for their conversion, she promised them that one night per year, they could celebrate as in the pre-Christian days. It's probably not a coincidence that May 1st is an ancient pagan festival in the Celtic countries called Beltane.<br />
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The cathedral in Lucca has the Santo Volto, which is an early 13th-century copy stored in its own temple. Perhaps the original was chipped away beyond repair by relic-seeking pilgrims.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrL-jPf5bo6FEGnKSRY-URDAOXKItzKi85P11YpsP_DTi9hDfJB2s6Ad2Bf27JCRNTDDn8BkKn-hy9jBGjHCzzZN6j5sLuRsqCFQu7MjE83q2nQJHOUNWaUNFo4qLIZ6HB-WnJ/s1600/DSC03053.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrL-jPf5bo6FEGnKSRY-URDAOXKItzKi85P11YpsP_DTi9hDfJB2s6Ad2Bf27JCRNTDDn8BkKn-hy9jBGjHCzzZN6j5sLuRsqCFQu7MjE83q2nQJHOUNWaUNFo4qLIZ6HB-WnJ/s320/DSC03053.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple with Santo Volto</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Santo Volto through the screen door</td></tr>
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The temple was closed when we were there, but the screen in the door allows a view of the Santo Volto.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ceiling in the apse of the cathedral</td></tr>
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The rest of the cathedral is very beautiful. The apse has a beautiful fresco. And the floor has a marble inlay depicted the Judgement of Solomon. (The baby is difficult to see, but look closely between Solomon on the throne and the soldier to the left of Solomon.)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marble inlay showing Judgement of Solomon</td></tr>
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The old city center of Lucca has a complete 17th century wall around it, and what remains of the Roman amphitheater is now a circle of houses with restaurants and shops in the ground floor. We stayed in a small <a href="http://www.cortedeinobili.it/en/corte-dei-nobili/welcome.html" target="_blank">B and B</a> near the "Anfiteatro" with a couple of Richard's colleagues whose wives also visited them. The B and B was nicely decorated with murals from the Age of Chivalry.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Room at Corte dei Nobili</td></tr>
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The Anfiteatro was, of course built in the ruins of a Roman amphitheater. In the middle ages, houses and restaurants were built inside up against the ancient walls and the floor of the arena was retained as the central plaza. We regularly ate breakfast and dinner at restaurants inside the old walls.<br />
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We had fun going out to dinner together and getting tips on what to look for when exploring. One great tip was a great book store with a stained glass ceiling and pillars inside that also included a café. Of course there were dozens of old Romanesque churches and plazas. While we were there, there was an antique car meet and parade involving lots of people wearing matching costumes riding around in their open-topped early-20th-century roadsters, having fun.<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com055100 Lucca, Province of Lucca, Italy43.8429197 10.50269769999999943.659702700000004 10.179974199999998 44.0261367 10.8254212tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-50796233309293552332018-04-08T11:26:00.000+02:002019-05-17T14:52:50.535+02:00Passau: three rivers and a castle<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Over Easter (April 2018) we spent a couple of days in Passau. It is a beautiful Baroque city.<br />
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Three rivers meet there. The Danube is the one seen in this photo. The Inn is the one on the far side of the church in the upper left-hand corner of this photo. It is the largest of the three rivers. The third is the Ilz (pronounced Ilts), which is below the bottom of the photo (not visible).<br />
The architecture in Passau is mostly baroque, because of a fire in 1662 that destroyed almost everything. That devastation resulted in a uniformity of architecture that is rare today.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg10yPNTYsNUFc1XV2I6Reh2NLhyYOVgJBbIJRfC-C01UHQsM2vHjS7LoURCE5-ELY0IolorWto-YO6YZoaupXAVzMWSzjBqXf-Fp_v43eCCQ1rrKPXRH4Vpomy9aw9EwWKOzn8/s1600/DSC02896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg10yPNTYsNUFc1XV2I6Reh2NLhyYOVgJBbIJRfC-C01UHQsM2vHjS7LoURCE5-ELY0IolorWto-YO6YZoaupXAVzMWSzjBqXf-Fp_v43eCCQ1rrKPXRH4Vpomy9aw9EwWKOzn8/s320/DSC02896.JPG" width="320" /></a>Passau was ruled by a prince-bishop, who ruled from a castle overlooking the city from a hill between the Danube and the Ilz. The castle was gradually expanded into a palace, which is the structure in yellow light is this photo. One of most interesting rooms is the chapel, which is covered by old gothic paintings.<br />
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Of course, every bishop, especially a prince-bishop, needs a cathedral. The cathedral in Passau was rebuilt after the fire of 1662, and it is today a beautiful baroque church. (The outside is seen in on the left side of the first photo above.) It has the largest pipe organ in Europe. There are 17,974 pipes, but only a few are visible.<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0Passau, Germany48.5667364 13.43194659999994748.482691900000006 13.270585099999947 48.6507809 13.593308099999946tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-75857704343405292182017-11-01T11:22:00.002+01:002019-05-17T15:28:10.694+02:00The Swiss Charm of Winterthur: Painters, Clocks and Glass<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
For Richard's birthday trip in the fall of 2017, we took a long weekend to visit Winterthur in Switzerland.<br />
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The main reason was to go to the Oskar Reinhart Museum, where there is an important collection of paintings from the Romantic movement in Germany. The painting that we wanted to see most is called <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chalk_Cliffs_on_R%C3%BCgen" target="_blank">Chalk Cliffs on Rügen</a> by <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caspar_David_Friedrich" target="_blank">Caspar David Friedrich</a>. The motivation was our trip earlier this year for Kathy's birthday to the island of Rügen in the Baltic Sea. It was on this island that Friedrich painted the chalk cliffs. (this photo is an example from our blog for <a href="http://cardinaltrees.blogspot.de/2017/11/rugen.html" target="_blank">Rügen</a> of the type of ever-changing chalk formations that might have inspired Friedrich)<br />
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Another motivation for visiting the museum was Richard's fondness for painters from the Romantic movement in Germany. Such painters often used symbolism to portray a personal religious system, which was often pantheistic through nature. Romantic sentiments can still be found in Germany today in the love of woodland. In this painting by Friedrich, the three figures are often interpreted as the eternal, the worldly, and the abyss. (The standing man is looking out to the horizon and two tiny boats, which can be interpreted as the soul. The kneeling man is looking down to the abyss. And the woman in a red dress (who is usually identified as Friedrich's wife, Caroline) symbolizes love in this life. (The trip to Rügen for Friedrich and his wife was a honeymoon, having just been married earlier that same year.)<br />
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Before going to Winterthur, we read up on it and got the impression it was an industrial town with companies like Sulzer, Rieter and SLM having built large industrial plants in the 1800s. It was also described as a city with little tourism. We were pleasantly surprised as soon as we walked into the old town from the train station on the way to our hotel. It was late in the evening, but the streets were full of people strolling and sitting at the sidewalk tables of the cafes and Kneipes. The next day we saw many young families and young couples. We knew we were in an incredibly vibrant college town. One evening we went out for cocktails, and after the first Manhattan I decided some soup for dinner would be nice. I ordered the Thai soup with green curry, which was a mistake, because it was so spicy. But the waitress took pity on me and brought water and then later, when the fire was still raging, she brought some plain white bread and sugar. That did the trick, and later I was able to enjoy another Manhattan.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3wyGHdQa39dP7tnoOzeDBtn4Hc_F3x1QROSnE4rC5RWlBXVn2VB9Uz_zgbCMWt9XbtWIlAotS0tYLIQn7EfUUuhyphenhyphenxaRUJnJMcci9mWbGjgzzscUAeatNwGMmq5X7GM9ibwChv/s1600/DSC02455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1068" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3wyGHdQa39dP7tnoOzeDBtn4Hc_F3x1QROSnE4rC5RWlBXVn2VB9Uz_zgbCMWt9XbtWIlAotS0tYLIQn7EfUUuhyphenhyphenxaRUJnJMcci9mWbGjgzzscUAeatNwGMmq5X7GM9ibwChv/s320/DSC02455.JPG" width="213" /></a>Our hotel was really nice, with lots of nice touches in the room and a really good restaurant. It was in the middle of the old town, and just a short walk to the sites. It was surrounded by stores included music shops and a great sewing store.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEnEpjuKCHZBmbhqgpuaCUbAQY1Q4MARY2zrqDv6VoWMpe5fkkS3y1HkMMUJj4s3yIf7R56I1HU6blOi3-9_7cY7GXZ8yPbpdgAyY8Ihj5ZE2m9iZOX__1WGQGRFXy9Qgdu-KK/s1600/DSC02432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEnEpjuKCHZBmbhqgpuaCUbAQY1Q4MARY2zrqDv6VoWMpe5fkkS3y1HkMMUJj4s3yIf7R56I1HU6blOi3-9_7cY7GXZ8yPbpdgAyY8Ihj5ZE2m9iZOX__1WGQGRFXy9Qgdu-KK/s320/DSC02432.JPG" width="320" /></a>Not far from the hotel was the old town church. The inside had been renovated with beautiful blue colors and paintings depicting the saints<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuQthN-6CGBYx12ieGGBqEvwWJjUA-LApfSe1EQC82CFpv8ggMe1YJ28rr0A2m_ow8K3R_0IMP2pOlWkjMVg1WlFk8-QKtyHNpuEnYZYJgVF85sqMGWs5_v1TZOKFY8qTuGtbb/s1600/DSC02460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuQthN-6CGBYx12ieGGBqEvwWJjUA-LApfSe1EQC82CFpv8ggMe1YJ28rr0A2m_ow8K3R_0IMP2pOlWkjMVg1WlFk8-QKtyHNpuEnYZYJgVF85sqMGWs5_v1TZOKFY8qTuGtbb/s320/DSC02460.JPG" width="320" /></a>But the most memorable of all, next to the Oskar Reinhart Museum, was the Gewerbemuseum, which is the Museum of Applied Arts and Design. It contains the <a href="http://uhrenmuseumwinterthur.ch/en/exhibitions/collection-konrad-kellenberger/" target="_blank">Kellenberger</a> Collection of clocks and watches, and there are some beautiful pieces included. I also liked the large, old clockworks with all of the internals exposed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh71gB_lqxLqJwn6_1ej-9ZwMk_Iu7upvaa922Ac6kA7mrESCCIZoxNOk7M4Lcpa0dIM_Q0VBoIlxsLIZWa7afr_hg35SvHIjiFGbej8ErqMpUzPtNxIq6-hdxW4oD_eEaZ2FW6/s1600/DSC02462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1069" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh71gB_lqxLqJwn6_1ej-9ZwMk_Iu7upvaa922Ac6kA7mrESCCIZoxNOk7M4Lcpa0dIM_Q0VBoIlxsLIZWa7afr_hg35SvHIjiFGbej8ErqMpUzPtNxIq6-hdxW4oD_eEaZ2FW6/s320/DSC02462.JPG" width="213" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDZz44gb3xDNKwLBFTWm_e-dR4ok7ba74x3zhSr055GDfsnyjWV7uHCuXubt7nILEMbdh-2e8ZctAU1DMKxNcPS0z8FxBKhz0QuNmp3CD3Q6nZG0FWSJfWbcHCMYWtdMveEf7y/s1600/DSC02480.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHw5khwsHoggUofk4Eh_lbGr1qi1UxWJcufuDhxk0ksoVwLTyAgrHp0xeUNCmS7VzkEpQqKAQOgn2i9tceAJKWtBTSyk6ZF2ZukI4DZyVVCLmfo2shyphenhyphen_o0SxMd2MKYGVcRsRx-/s1600/Eiswasserglas_HansHansen_GewerbemusWthur_Glasschale_Detail_Tapio_Wirkkala_2012_300dpiA5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHw5khwsHoggUofk4Eh_lbGr1qi1UxWJcufuDhxk0ksoVwLTyAgrHp0xeUNCmS7VzkEpQqKAQOgn2i9tceAJKWtBTSyk6ZF2ZukI4DZyVVCLmfo2shyphenhyphen_o0SxMd2MKYGVcRsRx-/s320/Eiswasserglas_HansHansen_GewerbemusWthur_Glasschale_Detail_Tapio_Wirkkala_2012_300dpiA5.jpg" width="240" /></a>We were lucky to be at the Gewerbemuseum during the special exhibit of the German photographer Hans Hansen. The exhibit was called EISWASSERGLAS, which means Ice-water-glass. He also collects some of the glass items that he photographs, and many pieces from his collection were also on display. It was fun to try to identify the pieces on display in the photographs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGK5YPAvuRsWK1vaeHhXqzu3Ay22ueZ81GnUBdrVyKIMsfdUkT7RsBos2BXZGrC_PXbJ4g1vaTFqpys3dmEXyitJs_dId_MWQd5WjcElQq9Cz1urI3eeQXFdHPScUFKnzUeCkT/s1600/DSC02477.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1068" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGK5YPAvuRsWK1vaeHhXqzu3Ay22ueZ81GnUBdrVyKIMsfdUkT7RsBos2BXZGrC_PXbJ4g1vaTFqpys3dmEXyitJs_dId_MWQd5WjcElQq9Cz1urI3eeQXFdHPScUFKnzUeCkT/s320/DSC02477.JPG" width="320" /></a>Hansen started off his collection with the purchase of a jar by the Finnish designer Tapio Wirkkala. There are several of Wirkkala's pieces on display in the permanent collect at the museum. Hansen also photographs pieces by Ritsue Mishima, Hanneke Fokkelman, and Tora Urup. A collection of Tora Urup's work was also on display. I especially liked the layered bowls. This photograph shows a two-layered blue bowl and a three-layered white bowl. What is interesting is that each piece is a single bowl, but each looks like multiple bowls. The clear glass between layers of colored glass make the shape of the layers change, depending on the angle it is observed from. That's more obvious in the orange bowl.<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0Winterthur, Switzerland47.4988196 8.7236889000000747.327176099999996 8.40096540000007 47.6704631 9.04641240000007tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-52005274648162154862017-11-01T09:36:00.001+01:002019-05-17T14:56:28.357+02:00Rügen: Chalk cliffs, old beeches and waterfront<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
For Kathy's birthday in June 2017, we went to the island of Rügen in the Baltic Sea.<br />
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The chalk cliffs are famous. The picture directly above shows the formation known as the "King's Chair". Legend has it that the man who was elected king was required to climb to the top of the cliff and sit at the top in order to claim his throne.<br />
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Part of Rügen is a national park that consists of a beech forest. These trees escaped being harvested throughout the previous centuries as well as the exploitation that could have occurred during the GDR days. There is an amazing feeling of peace as you look into the forest. It's as if the trees are wise old beings calmly bearing witness to all that has passed.<br />
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Our hotel was as close to the water as you could get. Richard chose it because it included spa facilities. We each enjoyed a sauna and a massage. There was a pool that was partly indoors and partly outdoors. The wind made it hard to sit outside, and the pool water was cool but there was a jacuzzi tub that we sat in for a while as often as we could.<br />
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Above is the hotel's waterfront. Look familiar? All it would take is a bridge and it could be somewhere on the St. Lawrence!<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-11654048945673129672017-10-14T13:12:00.000+02:002019-05-17T14:59:26.510+02:00Wittenberg: Luther the rebel<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">We went to Wittenberg over Easter, 2017. We decided to go now because this year is the 500th anniversary of the start of the reformation, when the legend says that Martin Luther nailed his 95 theses to the door of the church.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Statue of Martin Luther on Market Square in Wittenberg</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Martin Luther was born in 1483 as the son of a miner. In 1501, he began his studies at the University of Erfurt. <span class="aBn" data-term="goog_1074620089" style="border-bottom: 1px dashed rgb(204, 204, 204); position: relative; top: -2px; z-index: 0;" tabindex="0"><span class="aQJ" style="position: relative; top: 2px; z-index: -1;">Four years later</span></span>, he completed his Masters degree and then began studying law. In 1505, Luther became an Augustinian monk in Erfurt. <span class="aBn" data-term="goog_1074620090" style="border-bottom: 1px dashed rgb(204, 204, 204); position: relative; top: -2px; z-index: 0;" tabindex="0"><span class="aQJ" style="position: relative; top: 2px; z-index: -1;">Two years later</span></span>, he became a priest. In 1512, Luther earned his doctorate in theology, and he became a professor at the University of Wittenberg.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Martin Luther did not intend to cause a split in the Catholic Church; he wanted to reform the church. Luther was angry about the sale of indulgences, but he never intended to question the church or the pope. In fact, Luther wrote to Archbishop Albrecht of Mainz on October 31, 1517, asking for an academic debate on the issue. He prepared a collection of 95 arguments and points of criticism as a basis for the debate, his 95 theses. Because Luther wasn't a revolutionary, he is sometimes called the last medieval man. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">But Luther is also called the first modern man, because his principles were based on humanist philosophy. His Reformation called on people to take responsibility for their own conscience, and so the function of clergy as a link between the believer and God was unnecessary. The thoughts and actions of every Christian were no longer under the authority of the ecclesiastical hierarchy. This was revolutionary.<br /><br />Luther questioned how God could be only a a judge who punished every wrong deed. He pondered this until he had a realization that God must be a loving God, not a punishing one. Luther's problem with indulgences was that he saw God also as a father who loves the people he created and who sent his son to pay the price for the sin that was separating them from him.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Through his study of the Bible, Martin Luther developed four key theological pillars. The first is the Holy Scripture. He saw the Bible as the only benchmark of truth, while the Church at the time also relied on additional texts written by the pope and the synod.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Secondly, salvation only comes through God's grace and not by good works. This belief made the selling of indulgences obsolete.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Thirdly, Luther concluded that Jesus Christ, through his death on the cross, which paid the penalty for all sin, is the only bridge between humanity and God.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Finally, we are saved by faith alone, believed Luther. Consequentially, the Church lost its power with Luther's teachings and its hierarchies began to crumble. While his work is indeed revolutionary, Luther himself believed he was simply reinstating old, forgotten principles rather than expressing new and unwelcome beliefs.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Luther probably became famous because the theses critical of the church were printed on a leaflet that was in circulation.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Luther was not the first to translate the Bible but he was the first to use the Greek original as the source text instead of the Latin translation. He translated the historical text with great linguistic skill, poeticism and imagery.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_7osm1PSDh8/WQSEu5dMfkI/AAAAAAAAQJc/prxLEizGMw4Uc_AI-cn4la3lL6d5jZ4IwCPcB/s1600/20170414_145002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white;">Because everyone was responsible for his own conscience, everyone had to be able to read the Bible, and so everyone had to be able to read. </span><span style="background-color: white;">This included girls. More information is available at the following link:</span></span></div>
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com0Wittenberg, Germany51.8739831 12.62796589999993651.7172421 12.305242399999935 52.030724099999993 12.950689399999936tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25667938.post-52187943389425370312017-05-01T16:41:00.001+02:002019-05-17T15:32:36.973+02:00Mathildenhöhe: Artists' colony develops Jugendstil (Art Nouveau)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
April-May 2017<br />
We had a long weekend including May 1st, which is a holiday in Germany. So we went with friends to Mainz on Saturday. We watched their daughter perform in a scene from Medea, and she was awesome. On Sunday we went to Darmstadt, where there is an artists' colony called Mathildenhöhe.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hochzeitsturm</td></tr>
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The symbol for the Mathildenhöhe is the Hochzeitsturm (Wedding Tower). It was designed by one of the founders of the colony, Joseph Maria Olbrich. It was built as a memorial to the wedding of the Grand Duke Ernst Ludwig to Princess Eleonore zu Solms-Hohensolms-Lich, which took place on February 2, 1905. Construction was completed in time for the 3rd exhibit of the artists' colony, which took place<br />
There is a sun dial on the side of the tower, and underneath is the poem.<br />
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<i>Day passes over my face</i><br />
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gEn7nJQJl5Y/WQb3NR4cy_I/AAAAAAAAQMM/VW7zBPMRu50jOQtgMMyXI0ma3dSPeqirwCPcB/s1600/DSC02072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gEn7nJQJl5Y/WQb3NR4cy_I/AAAAAAAAQMM/VW7zBPMRu50jOQtgMMyXI0ma3dSPeqirwCPcB/s320/DSC02072.JPG" width="213" /></a><i>Night gently touches it<br />and day and night a balance<br />and night and day a unity<br /><br />and the silhouette circles eternally <br />you stand life long in the dark game <br />until the meaning of the game strikes you<br />it is time – you have arrived at your destination</i><br />
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There are many, many poems around the colony. It starts to explain why Germany is known as the Country of Poets and Thinkers.<br />
Inside the tower are rooms for weddings.<br />
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Jugendstil is the name of the type of art applied at the Mathildenhöhe. Jugend was the name of the most important magazine about the style of art at the beginning of the movement. That's why the art is called Jugendstil (stil = style in German). We call it Art Nouveau. It evolved from the Arts and Crafts style developed in Britain after its industrial revolution created a longing for hand-crafted products and a return to nature.<br />
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The artists’ colony was founded in 1899 by the Grand Duke. He brought together several artists including Peter Behrens, Paul Bürck, Rudolf Bosselt, Hans Christiansen, Ludwig Habich, Patriz Huber, along with the above-mentioned Joseph Maria Olbrich. The artists had four exhibits from 1901 through 1914. The artists could buy property and construct residential houses that were to feature in the exhibition, and so architecture, interior design, handcraft and painting were all on display.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peter Behrens’ House</td></tr>
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Most of the houses survived the fire bombing of Darmstadt at the end of the second world war.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Front door of Peter Behrens' House</td></tr>
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We weren't able to go into any of the houses, but there was an exhibit on the interiors in the museum, which was originally the artists' studio. <br />
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The entrance shows some tiles on the floor. Tiles were very popular, and there was a special exhibit in the museum on tiles.<br />
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The radiator of the hot-water heating system is behind the grating.<br />
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This dresser was my favorite piece of furniture. From a distance, it looks like it belongs to the more geometric period rather than the floral period.<br />
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As you get closer, the details of the wood at the top of the dresser become visible.<br />
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Only when you get very close do you see the eye of Isis, the chalice and cross in front of vines, and the dove above it all.<br />
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Jugendstil was applied to art, of course,<br />
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and to gardens as well.<br />
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There is also a church at Mathildenhöhe.<br />
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It is called the Russian Church, because it was used as a private chapel by the last Tsar of Russia, Nicholas II, whose wife Alexandra was born in Darmstadt. She was the granddaughter of Queen Victoria, and was killed along with the Tsar and their family during the Bolshevik revolution in 1918.<br />
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Next to the church is a nice pavilion.<br />
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And on the other side is a sycamore grove with a café where we had lunch.<br />
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Richard Trewinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11335960833457149874noreply@blogger.com2