Ireland 2007
Mom (aka: Sharon) & Katie to leave the States and meet Richard & Kathy in Dublin airport.
Monday, July 9, 2007
Reyes and Sara (Ray’s parents) in Little Elm to take care of Michaela and Isabell while Katie is gone to Ireland.
Mom flies into DFW to be picked up by Reyes, Sara, Michaela, Isabell, and Katie.
Preparations made to get to DFW airport the next day for trip to Ireland.
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Ray to take Mom and Katie to the airport. He called on his way home from work (mid morning) to have the two of us packed and bags in the garage for his arrival.
After a tearful goodbye – Michaela (5) understanding that I would be gone for many days and Isabell (2) crying either because Michaela was or because Mom and I were riding in Ray’s work truck and she wasn’t .. not sure which.
Mom and I were then loaded in the truck waiting for Ray to come out of the house. As he did, he said to us, “You’re ready?” “Yeah.” We were ready. But we soon got a grin and a shake of his head as he realized our bags were still sitting in the garage. Oops. :0)
Mom and I were through check-in and security at no time at the airport. Lunch at Bennigan’s (setting the Irish tone). Walked by a currency exchange – but the statement was made that Richard was taking care of that.
The flight on Lufthansa over the pond was a bit painful. We were an hour delayed, very little leg room, backs that were difficult to recline, a couple in front of us that never truly got settled, a family behind us that had a little one that cried/screamed the majority of the trip and another that must have had nervous leg reaction as the back of the seat was kicked most of the way.
We drank lots of water, as advised, for jetlag and I ate whenever served which was 3 times on a nine hour flight. I was under the impression that if I ate when served then I wouldn’t be hungry when I would try to sleep. It seemed to work for me! :0)
We flew over the States – up the coast more or less – Carolinas, D.C., Canada, over Ireland to Frankfurt, Germany. We landed at what was 2 am our time and 9 am there.
We had, with the delay at take-off, only an hour layover. I had stated to Mom that I thought we should move as swiftly as we could upon landing. She took it to heart. As we exited the plane and I stopped two times to ask for directions to the next gate … she just kept walking … She knew where she was going. At our gate, we had to go through another round of security with the restroom right there. We had time to spare so I asked her if she needed to use the restroom. She was fine. We entered to our gate and she was going to take her meds… “You can take them dry?” I asked. She stated that there was a coke machine right over there. Indeed there was … but it also required Euros. We had none at that time – because, as you recall, Richard was taking care of that.
Flight from Germany to Ireland was uneventful…. Except that we were in Ireland!
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Ireland! We arrived! Mom and I walked through baggage claim as we both traveled with carry-on items only and went to the meeting area as was discussed with Kathy and Richard. Found a place to sit and I continued to walk to see if I could find them. Mom asked if I was interested in a smoothie from a stand. I would be – except again – no Euros! :0) Eventually I was going to the restroom to get to my money belt to get cash to exchange and was going to call Richard and Kathy. Kathy had found Mom and then me and then we met up with Richard! Gang all here! Let’s go!
Heather! Mom immediately found heather in the airport gardens. Bus to car rental – car rental to hotel in Dublin. Check in at the Holiday Inn Express and off to grab a bite to eat for lunch. Did I mention that Mom and I had already eaten 3 times in 9 hours and now … a few hours later … eating again! Richard and Mom had their first pint. “Slainte!” (Cheers!)
Grabbed the city bus to downtown Dublin (double decker). We are in Ireland! Once downtown on O’Connell Street we were able to get on a city bus tour. We saw everything from the statue of Father Matthew, the Spire, to O’Connell himself and the 4 virtues. We were trying to write down the four virtues as the bus / tour guide was sharing that info with us. We could remember and wrote down 3. I went to the lower level to ask him the 4th… Nobility (patriotism), Fidelity, Courage, and Eloquence… The bus driver asked what I had won for guessing the 4th; it was then decided that I was only worth about a pint. I’m good with a pint! :0) We also saw Dilery Street, Trinity College which holds the Book of Kells, to St. Patrick Cathedral, Guinness brewery, to (my favorite) “The Prick with a Stick” aka: James Joyce (see picture at top).
Thursday, July 12, 2007
Continental breakfast at the hotel. Then off to see Ireland!
Heading around Dublin to the N4, NW as the sheep wander. Got to Mullingar in County West Meath and headed SW on N52 to Tullamore.
<Sharon's maiden name is Rochford>
Belvedere House – Once owned by Robert Rochfort, Earl of Belvedere. It was fun to see the Rochfort crest on the house front stair case. Fuchsia bushes! We only have them as potted plants in the states but in Ireland it is a huge bush.
Then back to the NE for Rochfortbridge.
Up to Mullingar again to go NW to Collinstown. A letter from Eliza (mother) to Michael Rochford (who had emigrated to the US) was post marked from Collinstown.
Back to Mullingar for lunch at a local cafe & chatting with a local woman.
NW on N4 toward Longford and happened across the Children of Lir historical site. The Children of Lir is a story about 4 children whose stepmother cursed them, turning them into swans with human voices. They were cursed to stay this way for 900 years, wandering around Ireland, until the sound of a bell ringing for the new God released them.
We couldn’t get over the green, rolling hills, rock and shrub fences, and sheep dotting the hillsides. We also saw the first of the cows and the first sign of peat.
It was fun to take quick stops to get a few pictures of ruins, cemeteries, barns and such along the way. Tulsk provided us with one such stop to check out the ruins of a chapel and of the cemetery.
We made it all the way west across the country to Westport in County Mayo. It was there that we checked into Mrs. O’Malley’s B&B and headed out to Shebeen’s. We sat outside at the roadside. Had a few pints of Guinness and had a local cheese plate and calamari (brown soda bread too).
We had fun as we spoke of two boats anchored in the harbor. Richard had asked why it was that the boats were ‘up’ from the anchor. Wouldn’t the boats go out and away from the anchor with the out-going tide? None of us were sure how that happened … but Mom wanted to know about the man in the boat. ----- There was no man in the boat! ----- too many pints or Bailey’s for her! :0) It was a good laugh.
Shebeen’s also had a thatch roof. It was the first one we’d seen up close.
Friday, July 13, 2007
Breakfast with Mrs. O’Malley’s tenants & off to see Croagh Patrick (mountain) on R335. We then headed back into Westport and SE on R330 toward Galway in Galway County.
Again seeing many interesting things – a bathtub in the harbour, sheep and “Irish Asses,” more thatching, and the first John Deere sighting (until then we’d only seen Red!). We also found more peat near the River Clare. We also sighted two white haired Irishmen on the street in Galway. Funny … we saw a sign to learn to speak Spanish … in Ireland. :0) Galway also is the home for the Lynch Castle which now serves as a bank.
While in Galway we had lunch at a pub … traditional Irish stew for Richard made with lamb. Great! And traditional Irish cabbage and bacon for me. My favorite meal of the trip. The bacon was more like what I would consider to be slices of ham. Great flavor. I guess I could be from there.
We followed the N67 SW along the coast. The landscape changes … now more rock. Found a great little shop with woolens and linen. I really enjoyed a wool hat with a bill and pocket on the hat – just couldn’t justify it in Texas.
Cliffs of Moher in County Clare = Cold! But so impressive! Mom was a little embarrassing as she was so cold she was using her pillow case for her quilted blanket as a stocking cap! But it was cold!
Stopped in a nearby town for a bite to eat. We had fabulous seafood including sea bass & scallops. Delightful!
Found River Shannon and a golf course outside Limerick in Limerick County.
N18 SE out of Limerick to our next B&B – Castleview. It was our first one lane road! Very exciting! At Castleview we learned that many of the castles were in ruins due to invasions and others using the stone for homes.
When asking the gentleman of Castleview about our days travels and his advice … he enjoyed giving me a hard time about my need to kiss the Blarney Stone…. He wouldn’t!
Saturday, July 14, 2007
We made our way back down the one lane road to Limerick’s N7 to N20 SE toward Tralee in County Kerry. We saw a white haired Irishman on a bike with boots and all.
Outside of Tralee on N86 toward Dingle we happened across a neat bridge, cottage, wild roses, and lilies.
We stopped the car and I jumped out to get a few pictures. As I was standing on road’s edge to focus in on the roses, a car stopped at the curve. I took the shot and approached the car with a white haired gentleman driving. “Aye, my roses,” he told me and said that his name was Mike Schmidt. He wanted to know where I was from and although I was from the States, I “could be from here.” The best compliment! He lived there, just up the hill from the roses.
We stopped the car and I jumped out to get a few pictures. As I was standing on road’s edge to focus in on the roses, a car stopped at the curve. I took the shot and approached the car with a white haired gentleman driving. “Aye, my roses,” he told me and said that his name was Mike Schmidt. He wanted to know where I was from and although I was from the States, I “could be from here.” The best compliment! He lived there, just up the hill from the roses.
Slieve Mish Mountains were another beautiful sight.
Making our way to Dingle in County Dingle and another great lunch at the Celtic Garden Cafe. Mom and I had open faced salmon sandwiches. Very visually appealing and tasty!
Docked in Dingle Bay were a few fishing boats in which Mom went to go investigate. One of the fishermen told Mom that he had a contract with Spain for his catches.
From Dingle, we headed N86 E to R561 along the coast looking at the Ring of Kerry across Castlemaine Harbour. As we traveled R561, we followed a truck. I soon came to the conclusion that you could not pay me to drive any large vehicle on the roads of Ireland. We wondered how all of the shrubs and greenery on the side of the road stayed so trim. We found out! Trucks seem to keep things tidy. The truck would move over to the left side of the road with oncoming traffic and kept all of the bushes and trees trimmed. The roads are very narrow and things are so very close to the road it was a bit scary for me to see.
Another exciting find on our way to the Ring of Kerry was a gentleman out harvesting peat. The harvested blocks of peat were lined up in neat rows near the field entrance. There was only one gentleman out working and appeared to me to be laborious. Peat looked much like our black soil. Mom was collecting peat … Richard told her she could not take it … she snuck a chunk into the car. She really wanted to see how it burned but never got that accomplished. She did, however, manage to worry the rest of us. I was sure she would try to get the peat through customs and I’d have to get her out of customs jail.
As we reached N70 we took that in the counter clockwise (suggested) direction for the circuit of the Ring of Kerry & still more beautiful country. We saw more forests in this part of the country and, down the road a bit, even an area that had been clear cut of the pine.
Stopping in Cahersiveen on the NW point of the Ring, we stopped to see the Daniel O’Connell Memorial Church and found a Red Rose Cafe. Passed another golf course – can’t imagine my score on the rolling hills of the courses in Ireland. As we made our way toward Kenmare, we found a turn out spot in the road with a statue of Mother Mary. The signs were all in Gaelic so we aren’t sure of the significance but it was neat to see. As we looked down from that point we saw what we believe to be a fort – it was a circular rock formation. We also saw standing rock in fields.
Roads are narrow, winding (I still believe they paved the sheep paths), and somewhat busy. We also encountered the results of what Kathy said must have been a “Hold my beer & watch this!” moment. On our way to Kenmare we came upon a car that had somehow managed to be on its driver’s side (drivers sitting on the right) in the left lane. It didn’t look pretty but was the only accident we saw during our road trip of Ireland.
In Kenmare still in County Kerry, we stayed at the Annagry House, which Mom and Kathy had made reservations for from the Killorglin Library as the tourist office was closed. It had a family room available and was again, very nice. We checked in and went to town for a meal. As we each headed a different direction to find a place to eat, I came across a plaque on a building front for James Rochford. That was fun to find. Ate at the Velvet Wine Cafe and Restaurant and found our way to Foley’s Pub for Guinness and Irish music. Sitting at the bar, Mom became acquainted with a local fisherman (tanned, solidly built, dark-haired, 60-something). She chatted for a long time and after his departure, she stated she could barely understand a thing he said! Brendan (30-something) then was at my side at the bar, he too was local, and thought that the gentleman singing that evening was very good. He was – there were even a few songs we knew some of the words and could sing along. It was enjoyable. (See the picture at right. The guy in the background with the guitar was the evening's entertainment.)
Sunday, July 15, 2007
Breakfast with the usual cereal, breads, fruit, etc and the meal of our choice. I had a bacon and apple sandwich which was very tasty.
After breakfast, I took a few pictures as we prepared to be on our way … there were sheep just outside our bedroom window… dumb sheep.
On our way from Kenmare, we took N71 to the NW which turned to the NE to make our way to Killarney. In Killarney we took N22 to the SE to Macroom and crossing the River Lee. We also came upon a bridge with barn or mill-like remains. Continued SE to Cork in County Cork.
It was in Cork that I got lost. We were trying to make our way to the Blarney Castle NE of Cork … roads don’t run straight and street signs are marked in many interesting ways. One of the most common places to find a street sign in on the second floor level of the building wall on that corner. Street signs can also be found on a plaque on a short wall at that corner. If there is a “street sign pole” as we are used to in the US, it has landmark/tourist info on it and not street names. We stopped, Kathy jumped out to ask for directions, I found street signs, and we eventually made our way to the Blarney Castle.
Blarney Castle! Here I come! Mom, not climbing all of the stairs in the Castle was off to shop, Kathy was off to the gardens of the castle, and Richard and I off to the castle! More beautiful country and interesting castle. As we entered the castle to get to the stairs, Richard came to an area that was not for him… he backed out of the small area and tried again. Not sure he would make it; there was one exit in the spiral staircase making its way to the stone. Richard took the exit. I continued up the spiral staircase – holding the tow rope which was attached to the inside of the spiral – and kept climbing. The gentleman in front of me was wearing a backpack and had a tight fit most of the way. The spiral was so tight; my foot didn’t fit completely on the steps. As the stairs continued to appear smaller, I was thinking it was a good thing Richard had gotten out when he did. Standing on the Castle’s roof, I was impressed by what I assume was the drainage system. The marble was slanted down toward the outside of the castle with small squares of space for water to run off. Got to the stone and was thinking, “We have all got to be fools for kissing this rock, upside down, with an old man holding on and three steel bars below.” Got to the old man, “Sit down lass, sit down lass, grab the bar lass, grab the bars, kiss the stone…” I’m thinking, “What stone?! It’s all rock” Kissed the rock which was smoother than the rest and was giggling at the fact that I was bent over on my head at my waist to kiss this rock…. Fools! All of us. But I did it! :0) As I worked my way around to the exit spiral staircase, I heard my name. Richard had made it to the top. Said he’d found his “happy place” and kissed the stone too! Whoohoo!
I had previously made comment that we’d see what kind of communicable diseases we could catch kissing the stone… Richard had thought that there wouldn’t be any such thing because we’d surely be related to be fool enough to kiss the stone. I now agree.
I had previously made comment that we’d see what kind of communicable diseases we could catch kissing the stone… Richard had thought that there wouldn’t be any such thing because we’d surely be related to be fool enough to kiss the stone. I now agree.
The four of us met back at the entrance to the Castle park and off we went to grab some lunch. Kathy spotted a Horgan shop – as close as she would come to her family name. We did some shopping there & grabbed lunch at a cafe down the street. We also found the Blarney Wool Factory and Market. It was a huge place. We did not take the time to tour the factory.
Back to Cork with some confusion again and then to the Island of Cobh (pronounced Cove). As we traveled on the little R624 road, it literally became little! There were markings for cars to park on the road side left & a lane on the right which left only the half of the width of our car to drive on the left! Yipes!
Traveled the same road about 3 or 4 times in search of the train station Heritage Square to find the Immigration museum. That was an interesting stop. There was a ship in port, a statue of Annie Moore, and the museum itself. I was amazed to hear the stories of the coffin ships (ships that would not float) & that people were so desperate to leave Ireland that they chose to get on these ships. I also found it interesting that within a short period of time, the potato fed the population which grew 60% and then was a cause of such despair. Cobh is home to a towering cathedral as well. As we had traveled one of the inner town streets to get a closer look of the cathedral, I got out of the car to get a picture of the steeple. As I did, there was a gentleman walking toward me whom I did not see. He said, “Aye, did ye get me?” “No, but I will!” He continued to walk down the parking lot to his van and as he was getting the door open, we drove by, and as I’d promised, I called to him and got his picture. He pulled a big grin and struck a pose. Another unexpected bit of fun.
On the Island, we stayed at the Tearmann B&B. The lady of the house, Bernadette, was enjoyable & yet again, a lovely place to stay.
Monday, July 16, 2007
Breakfast at Tearmann B&B. This time we had the opportunity to eat black pudding. I tried it and passed it on to Richard.
After breakfast, we headed back into Cobh to the main street and found a shop to buy boxes to ship all of our treasures home. The post office was right on the water’s edge next to the park. Another lovely stop.
We headed out Cove on R624 with more Kodak moments … bridge, ruins, thatch, etc. We found N25 along the Celtic Sea to the NE toward Waterford. We drove by the Waterford Crystal factory and headed NW/N on N9. It was along this route that we found “Saint Guinness.” It was a Guinness sign with a church steeple in the background of it. Funny.
We stopped in Waterford for a bite to eat. We found a mall and a cafe. When leaving the mall, Richard went ahead to get the car and the three of us lasses found the St. Patrick Cathedral. We walked in to find black and white marble floors and Waterford Crystal chandeliers. Another white headed Irishman found me. I could be from here. :0) He was very proud of St. Patrick’s & was baptized there. We found Richard on the street and headed toward Kilkenny on N9 and N10. Kilkenny Castle was the next stop for Richard and Kathy and shopping across the street for Mom and Katie. Mom and Katie found the Ring with history of Ireland symbols on it & a Celtic knot (forget me not) earrings.
Kilkenny on N9 toward Dublin. Stopping along the way for another meal in Castledermot. Crossing the River Liffey on the way.
Dublin = Holiday Inn Express stay again.
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
Bus downtown to Ireland's National Gallery. We paid special attention to the Irish artists, among them expressionist J.B. Yeats, poet W.B. Yeats' brother.
Dublin Airport for flight to Frankfurt. (13 hour layover for in Frankfurt Mom and me in which Richard had arranged for us to stay in the Holiday Inn Express hotel near the airport.) Richard and Kathy flew from Dublin to continue their trip at basically the same time.
When Mom and I arrived in the Frankfort airport, we thought we’d better grab a bite to eat. We found a McDonald’s! We were both game. Had a bite and off to find the shuttle for the airport. We stopped along the way to ask to directions a couple of times. People, gentlemen in particular, were very helpful. ;0) We eventually found the shuttle area and got our hotel called. The shuttle trip made Mom a bit nervous. The road to the airport, now dark, left the city lights for the trees. We did make it to the hotel.
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
The next morning we were up and on the shuttle back to the airport at 7am. That meant we were up at 6 (which was 11pm our time). We got to our C terminal and to security about 2 ½ hours before our flight. Mom got stopped in security and was wanded. We were a little fearful she was going to the clink … but they soon let her go. We were in the construction area of the terminal … no speaker/announcement system, no air conditioning, and no seats. The oil businessman that soon joined us stated that that was the worse he’d ever seen the airport. Good to know.
Germany to DFW. Flight was 10 hours. It was a better flight than the flight over. The plane appeared to be newer with more leg room. Again, we had more than enough to eat and many spirits were offered.
We landed in DFW on time. Tried to get through customs without any paperwork in which they quickly sent us back to a counter … found our way out and found Ray and the girls! We were home!
Ray had prepared a brisket for us for dinner and enjoyed the opportunity to shower in my own shower and to wash the clothes I felt like I’d been wearing for 7 or so days. :0) Mom stayed with us and flew back to Iowa on Friday, July 20th.
A trip of a lifetime!!!
Tid-Bits:
It was enjoyable to be in a country where people are as pale as I am.
There must be something wrong with going on a summer vacation and having to wear thermal undershirts.
You know it’s bad when you’ve been on road that had much to be desired and then see a sign that states “Leaving Improved Road.”
Rains a bit each day (with exception of one). But the rain was different … it was what I would consider a mist. Just very light and small droplets. Rain was to be expected and Richard was even slightly disappointed when we had two days of sunshine.
Ireland Breakfast at the B&Bs = cereal and yogurt and fruit for appetizer, then breads (brown soda bread always) one fried egg with bacon, sausage, and white pudding. We did get to experience black pudding as well.
Sinks in most locations (other than the hotels) had the hot and cold faucets separate.
Much of the electrical / phone wires and cables were on the outside of the stone buildings and houses. When they weren’t needed anymore, they appeared to just be cut off and left.
Everything seemed ‘small’ and more compact.
Buildings were usually no more than four stories tall. They were called Georgians after the 4 King Georges. There was few and smaller windows in the buildings also. We were told that that was due to the fact that there was a glass tax.
Ireland for Dummies was my book of choice for our travels. When the locals would see the cover and title, they found humor in it.
Nothing much was fast pace. McDonald’s sightings in two cities and Burger King in another. A few cafe’s mentioned orders to go. Most meals required sitting down for a bit of time.
Sayings:
Slainte (pron. Slawn-cha, cheers)
Lovely
Perfect
Aye
